Moody Little ****!

[JT]

As some of you know, I recently purchased a 1979 GS550E from another forum member. Well, I think the bike caught some kind of virus or gremlin on the trailer ride home.

Details: 1979 GS550E
23,000 miles, Emgo Pods, 4 into 1 pipe, Dyna S ignition,
Recent changes to bike: Carb rebuild, petcock replaced, new reg/rect.

It started first try at his house, ran fine, and had no leaks before we loaded it up, so I assume some things have shaken loose in between.

Tried firing it up at home and it wouldn't start. Found no fuel going into fuel filter, (even on prime). Took off tank, drained fuel, petcock worked fine, put tank back on, and bypassed filter.

The bike finally started and was only running on cylinders 3&4 and wouldn't stay running, so I shut down and started checking for spark:
1st plug test: 1&2 not sparking, 3&4 spark fine
2nd plug test: 1&2 sparking, 3&4 no spark
(Wires were not crossed!)

At this point, I suspected I may have a wiring problem as both coils were working, though intermittently. :roll: So I worked with the wiring to the coils and finally got all four plug wires to spark, but I'm not confident that they will stay that way.

I had taken the tank off again and assumed that all fuel had been pulled through the carbs while turning engine over, so I put the tank back on and put the petcock on prime. I look down to see fuel pouring out of #2 carb vent tube immediately, but stopped leaking when petcock is placed in "On" position. (I decided to deal with that later). Tried starting it again with no success, and the battery finally became weak.

This is when I buttoned everything up, washed and scrubbed the bike really well, then waxed it and I decided to try starting it again. No go!
So I hooked the battery tender to the bike and I sat on the garage floor staring at a beautiful bike that won't start for 1/2 an hour or so, and nothing came to mind. This was two days ago and I have avoided even looking at the bike since. I know I need to work on it again, but don't even know where to start any more.

What do you folks think?....

 

[AOD]

What are you doing to that poor thing!?!? 8O 8O 8O

Fouled plugs can cause the no spark thing, do you have some B8ES's you can put it in? B8ERS work too. I'd try that before get carried away with tearing into the wire-harness.

Couple reasons to do this. First, I didn't change the plugs all season, I normally do, but it was running great all year. Second, it's sat for two months now without really being ridden much and when it was run, it was run without load and in cooler temps, so the fuel doesn't burn as good.

As for the carbs, sounds like the float got stuck maybe? I never had that happen...

Hang in there though, it's just fighting the new ownership thing!

~Adam

 

[AOD]

Are you on AIM btw Jerry?

 

[JT]

Actually, plugs were first on the list, checked all wires with same plug for indication of spark intensity. Will have complete set of new ones installed tomorrow.

Didn't tear into wiring harness, but was wondering why the two ground plugs at the wires to the coil weren't attached to anything and were rubbing on each other, so I seperated them and that was when I got spark back to all four cylinders. That's why I'm not sure if that solved the no-spark deal. I may have just gotten lucky.

I learned something through this though. Do not hold onto a plug wire and turn the ignition on a non-running bike from "on" position to "off" position.
8O 8O

Most of all, I'm just whining because now I have to work on two sets of carbs ..... :wink: :wink:

 

[JT]

Are you on AIM btw Jerry?

I can be later, hang tight

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Sounds like you fixed the electrical/sparking problem to me. Just be sure the plugs are clean and gapped correctly and check the Dyna timing with/without advance. You can do this statically. Easy/quick to check this stuff.
The leaking carb was actually leaking out the overflow line under the bowl, correct? Not the float bowl venting line?
If so, we all know that should be a sticking float or a bit of dirt stopping the float valve from sealing well. You can check/clean this stuff by just removing the bowl.
That should take care of the leak and the spark problem. I've always thought fuel filters were more trouble than help, for what that's worth. If there's a filter because of rust in a tank (not implying) the correct repair is to repair the tank.
Let us know if you still need help.

 

[JT]

AOD and I chatted about it some this evening and I'm going to try a few more things. I figured the stuck float, but didn't feel like dealing with it on top of the spark issue at the time. Hopefully, new plugs will make it happen, but as I told Adam, I've never seen two plugs foul at the same time on startup. Seems wierd, but I won't rule it out yet.

List of what to do tomorrow.

1) Pull float bowl in #2 carb and check float, might as well check all float heights while I'm at it.
2) New fuel lines, to get rid of rigged filter bypass.
3) New plugs
4) Change out all fuses and spot check some of the wiring. (It did have a fuse issue when I went to pick it up)

and IF it starts?????
5) Lean carbs out a little. (All plugs were showing a slightly rich condition when pulled)

Man I hope all of that works....

:roll: :roll: :roll:

Keith: This is my first Dyna ignition. Can you humor me and run through the check procedure please?......

 

[AOD]

1) Pull float bowl in #2 carb and check float, might as well check all float heights while I'm at it.
2) New fuel lines, to get rid of rigged filter bypass.

You may not need #5 if you reset the float heights, but you may need to open the fuel pilot screws a 1/4 turn or so.

I never had an issue with the filter and it's extra insurance to me. I would honestly leave it alone.

Are you going to take the carbs off the bike to do the float height? It takes no more than 5 minutes to get them off. Just undo the pods, pull them off (note how the side ones go on, because they're tricky with the frame rail) undo the four screws holding the carbs to the boots, 10mm to loosen the throttle cable adjusters, remove the cables, pull off the carbs, finagle it past the clutch cable by pulling them out the right side of the bike. Done

For reinstall, spray the boots with WD40 and the carbs will slip into the boots very nicely.

~Adam

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Keith: This is my first Dyna ignition. Can you humor me and run through the check procedure please?......

Sure. I always use a timing gun. More accurate and not subject to your "going past" the marks as you turn the crank and watch for a light or spark. Also, some have a little trouble using their thumb and index finger to hold the advance rotor in the fully advanced position while turning the crank. But this method helps if the bike isn't starting well.
This is straight from the Dyna S info, to avoid my usual rambling.
The left module fires cylinders 1/4, the right module fires 2/3. Each provides a +/- 10 degrees of adjustment. Moving them CCW advances the timing and CW retards the timing.
Timing adjustments should be made using the advance timing marks which are approximately 1/2" to the right of the "F" mark on the advance assembly.
(1)To time the engine statically, connect a 12 volt test light from the junction of the white coil wires to ground (engine case.) Don't disconnect the wires. Use the 19mm bolt (larger) to rotate the engine.
(2)Turn ignition switch on. While holding the rotor in the fully advanced position (CW), slowly rotate engine forward until the test light turns on. The right hand advance mark for cylinders 1/4 should align with the fixed mark on the engine case.
(3)If the marks don't align, loosen the screws holding the Dyna S plate to the engine and rotate it CW or CCW as appropriate and re-tighten the screws.
(4)Rotate the engine backwards until the light goes out and repeat steps 2 and 3.
(5)After 1/4 timing is verified, connect the test light to the black coil wire and repeat step 2, using the 2/3 timing marks. If it's necessary to adjust the 2/3 timing, loosen the small Allen screws holding the right module and move it CW or CCW as appropriate (.010" = 1 degree) and re-tighten Allens. Use the correct Allen wrench and don't over-tighten.
(6)Re-check timing and adjust as necessary using the above procedure until timing is verified.
Like I said, timing with a timing gun at about 2,500 rpms (full advance) is more accurate IF the bike will run well enough.
PS: Instead of a test light for the static adjustment, you can remove the plugs (easier to turn the drank too) and watch/listen for the spark at each plug. Plugs must be grounded well. Just replace the light with the spark. Also, I always apply a little dab of clear silicone to each side of each module after adjustment. The modules shouldn't be able to move with vibration now. Just insurance.
Have fun. I'll be behind my entertainment center today installing my new components. Lots of wires and dust bunnies back there. I may not come out alive, so print this out.:lol:

 

[JT]

Thanks Keith!


It's ALIVE Now!!!

Still running rich, but I'll work that out eventually.. :wink: :wink:

 

[Desolation Angel]

No matter how incompetent the owner, you can't keep a GS down.

Did I say that first part out loud?

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks Keith!


It's ALIVE Now!!!

Still running rich, but I'll work that out eventually.. :wink: :wink:

Let us know if you need help with the richness.
Depends on what throttle position if jet or jet needle position related. Could also be float levels and a couple other basic maintenance things, such as clean carbs or even electrical.

 

[AOD]

The guy who tuned those carbs before you bought the bike should be shot.

Glad to hear it's running again, Jerry. I'm assumming it was the plugs (fouled) that were causing it not to spark right and run?

~Adam

 

[AOD]

Also, nice info on the how-to-time your Dyna Ignition System, Keith. I believe Dyna has the information on their website you can download for future reference.

In the past when I installed the Dyna I timed it by ear at first and then used a timing light to dial it in, it worked really well and was cake. It has been so trouble-free since I installed it. I verified the timing was still accurate each spring.

~Adam

 

[AOD]

And with the nice weather this weekend...did you slam it into a few turns yet?!