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more GS1100E probs! YES!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter gruntedGS1100
  • Start date Start date
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gruntedGS1100

Guest
Well. been putting together this 500 dollar bike. previous owner got it running when i first checked it, managed to work on it, for 4 days untill he sold it to me.... lines went missing so were brackets. whatever..

Im new to the carb scene, but its all fairly easy to understand. Rebuilt the carbs, cleaned them out spotless. but while taking it apart, i had noticed to opening tubes in between the carbs....they didnt have lines there...are they just what im assuming..air lines?

Does anyone have schematics for this? im trying to run wires and lines blind. lol. I cant find the PDF service manual anywhere either.

Help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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I have not been able to be on the forum much lately and many new members have not received their "mega-welcome". If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

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If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
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Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

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Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

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thanks nessism and gatekeeper(didnt get that mega welcome till now)

I was looking through the service manual, and its saying fuel goes into those two lines that im talking about? so theres 3 points of entry for fuel on this??
 
1 point of entry for fuel,the other 2 are vents.and 1 for the vacuum petcock.On Basscliffs site there is a link for,"Where do these hoses go?If u went pods and pipe,make sure you do a dynojet stage 3 kit,those needles are very necessary.GL
 
after looking, those 8 valve carbies are a lil different,the vents on ours are brass and connected straight to the carbs, pointing up and back a lil.the pic at the front of carbs is like ours,fuel line between the 2 center carbs abd vacuum off#2 carb
 
5150/gs said:
1 point of entry for fuel,the other 2 are vents.and 1 for the vacuum petcock.On Basscliffs site there is a link for,"Where do these hoses go?If u went pods and pipe,make sure you do a dynojet stage 3 kit,those needles are very necessary.GL
Click to expand...


thats what i was thinking, just trying to pinpoint all problems. its not running right, eats the battery, etc etc.

and why do you feel those needles are necessary? I chose against it for the time being, along with exhaust. at least for the rest of my maybe 2 month ride season(NY)
 
I cannot explain the science behind it i just know from experience that trying to get em to run ight with stock needles doesn't work too well.and with dynojet kit u also drill a hole in the slides,it majorly smooths out the lower throttle range of running.I got Wireless guys running rideable and after 1/3 throttle goes like a raped ape.Just runs kinda rough in the lower throttle range, tho is is rideable.
Everyone here will tell you,they have years of experience,that if u go pods n pipe u need stage 3 dynojet kit.
 
Josh usually kicks in here, but I will give the abbreviated version:
The taper of the DynoJet needles is different and they claim they spend the majority of their engineering time on the taper, since that is where the "normal" rider spends most of their riding time. The needles are also adjustable vertically, which the stock CV needles are not. This allows the rider to custom tune the needle height using the plug chop method or a wideband (sniffer).
 
ok I see. basically makes tuning and peak power best. As long as its going to be rideable for a while, and just be a little low on power thats ok.
 
yes after giving it thought, there are pictures here soomewhere showing the difference in the needles.They are quite thinner than stock besides the clips.with that much air flow you need an increase in fuel delivery across the throttle range,the dyno needle provides that in conjunction with the larger mains,and drilling the slide makes them move up and down faster i believe,in conjunction this creates greatly improved throttle response and fuel delivery is metered much better.
 
be carefull running lean for too long,things tend to fry quick,very unhealthy for the engine.
 
couldnt i adjust the carbs to get them richer and have it run just fine? because as i said, i really just wanna rock it like this for 2 months? maybe 3
 
The needle taper is not for top end, it's for mid range, part throttle transission.
 
Last edited:
gruntedGS1100 said:
couldnt i adjust the carbs to get them richer and have it run just fine? because as i said, i really just wanna rock it like this for 2 months? maybe 3
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Nope. Besides the fact that it just won't work right, much less rock, in general you just won't like it. If you want to use the stock needles then use the stock intake and stock exhaust. You will like that just fine.
 
TY kid for clearin that up.seriouse,all i know is ,pods,pipe,gotta do stage3.am i wrong that running it like that?lean?causes damage?And Nessim? iwas trying to say that,just like to be nice,sayin it wontwork.wot is the easy part.it is the rest that the dynojet kit takes care of,Did cafe kid change his name?he is the one i learned from.for certain.
All i am sayin is ,either go all the way or stay home,otherwise ,asking for problems,thats my take on it.i wish i had all the stock stuff,pipes and airbox,got the airbox,not he pipes, so i went stage 3 dynojet,thorough carb dip,a sync, all has been great since,plug chops and all that god stuff,was a learning process well worth it.
My bike dyno'd at 109 running like crap from the PO.since doing all the required stuff here and some labor and passion,runs sweet as apple pie now!!hehe
 
well the reason why i went with pods was because they were easily available and im missing the airbox. lol.

the exhaust I havent done yet. so basically the only upgrade is the pods.
 
the pods make more a difference than the pipes,pipes only=stage1,pipes and pods=stage3,pods only?have to ask the guru's. i would say stage 3 after seeing the hp gain graph of a pipe change,pipe only the only gain i saw was with crap,mind s first thing to go ummm, supertrapp, yah thats it!! hehe.wish i had stock pipes.I have the complete airbox, but couldn't get it to run right with the dynojet needles.PO did the dynojet and drilling.otherwise i tried to go back to stock,just didn't work with the slides driled and the dynojet needles.
 
pm me if u like,i got Wireless guys running decent with stock needles, u can adjust them but with some modding, it is possible,the pods NEED to be oiled tho.it may be easier with stock pipes idk, worth a try,when i was done tho,all i and ray could come up with is he needs the needles
 
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