F
Flyboy
Guest
Hi all, here is one for the speed merchants, and others in the know.
I have been wading through the forums looking for info on degreeing the cams on my trusty 1000G, as you know, it is undergoing 'from the frame up' rebuild and although it is going back to mostly stock trim, I want to incorporate all the good mods and upgrades below the skin to enhance her.
I have the motor open to fit a new set of rings, I will also tear down the bottom end in due course to check and measure everything down there, although I expect all will be well and I will just button it all back up again, although I will do the clutch mod while I am down there, and probably chuck new bearings onto the gearbox drive and driven shafts as well as the primary drive.
Now, while I have the engine open, I would like to balance whatever I can, as well know know, viabration is a killer to all things mechanical, what can be done? I want tis thing to run as smooth as an electric motor......or close to.
From what I have managed to find, it seems that balancing is limited to the pistons, as the roller crank can't really be balanced, and the rods can't be removed for end to end balancing, is this correct?
I say can't, but I mean without splitting the crank and going into stupid costs, which I am not going to do, the bike is a street bike and a shaftie after all, it is not going to be raced, ridden spiritedly on occasion maybe.
When balancing the pistons, I understand that all four get balanced to the weight of the lightest one, where on the piston would one remove material without compromising the strength of the piston?
Now, about this cam degreeing melarchy, I get the whole thing of finding the lobe centers, easy enough, then getting the number one piston to exactly TDC and then adjusting the cams to make sure the lobe centers are spot on as well, to eliminate all variances in manufacturing and otherwise, again, easy enough.
Now it seems that by adjusting the cams away from lobe center with the piston at TDC there is free power to be found, x degrees for better top end or y degrees for better low and midrange grunt, etc.
My question is, are these figures the same for all engines? I would assume not.
That said, where would one find the figures for a particular engine, in my case a stock 1000G motor with stock cams?
It is all so confusing, I have seen figures off 114, 110, 109, 108 and so on and so on, how does one go about working out what you need for what you want?
I have been wading through the forums looking for info on degreeing the cams on my trusty 1000G, as you know, it is undergoing 'from the frame up' rebuild and although it is going back to mostly stock trim, I want to incorporate all the good mods and upgrades below the skin to enhance her.
I have the motor open to fit a new set of rings, I will also tear down the bottom end in due course to check and measure everything down there, although I expect all will be well and I will just button it all back up again, although I will do the clutch mod while I am down there, and probably chuck new bearings onto the gearbox drive and driven shafts as well as the primary drive.
Now, while I have the engine open, I would like to balance whatever I can, as well know know, viabration is a killer to all things mechanical, what can be done? I want tis thing to run as smooth as an electric motor......or close to.
From what I have managed to find, it seems that balancing is limited to the pistons, as the roller crank can't really be balanced, and the rods can't be removed for end to end balancing, is this correct?
I say can't, but I mean without splitting the crank and going into stupid costs, which I am not going to do, the bike is a street bike and a shaftie after all, it is not going to be raced, ridden spiritedly on occasion maybe.
When balancing the pistons, I understand that all four get balanced to the weight of the lightest one, where on the piston would one remove material without compromising the strength of the piston?
Now, about this cam degreeing melarchy, I get the whole thing of finding the lobe centers, easy enough, then getting the number one piston to exactly TDC and then adjusting the cams to make sure the lobe centers are spot on as well, to eliminate all variances in manufacturing and otherwise, again, easy enough.
Now it seems that by adjusting the cams away from lobe center with the piston at TDC there is free power to be found, x degrees for better top end or y degrees for better low and midrange grunt, etc.
My question is, are these figures the same for all engines? I would assume not.
That said, where would one find the figures for a particular engine, in my case a stock 1000G motor with stock cams?
It is all so confusing, I have seen figures off 114, 110, 109, 108 and so on and so on, how does one go about working out what you need for what you want?
