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motor bogging under load

  • Thread starter Thread starter centeno711
  • Start date Start date
C

centeno711

Guest
I dipped em cleaned diassembled everything without unsyncing .......seems like they are overfueled sometimes. Once the carbs get warm it seems to go away. Also bike needs lots of choke on cold starts. I hear this is indicative of the 1100's though. Sometimes I pin the throttle and its like I'm on a hill in high gear and other times it just rips to redline. Any experienses similar would be appreciated. Searched for 30 minutes this morning but there is so much info on the site I get side tracked with other peoples interesting gremlins.
 
How did you do the carbs without unsyncing?
Move to Arkansas so you can be proud.
 
from bakersfield?

from bakersfield?

A friend helped me....took everything out.....jets and what not sprayed with cleaner ran wire through sprayed, dipped anything non plastic.

The hard rubber plugs were in bad shape due to po bone head.....could they be the culprit?......what is it exactly they do? The plugs that sit in the bowls that is
 
K its impossible to dip the carbs (THE WHOLE CARB BODY NEEDS TO BE DIPPED ALONG WITH THE BOWL) without "unsyncing" them, unless you left them together, and then youd have other problems. All of the Orings need replaced as well. The rubber plugs, if they dont fit back in the pilot jet shaft as they should TIGHTLY, will leak, and you will be feeding fuel to the pilot jet unmetered. Your float levels need to be reset as well. "Lean starting" is not indicitive of "1100s" that have had the routine maintenence done. Did you also check your slide diaphrams for pinholes?? Holes in the rubber diaphram will cause the slide to leak and not lift, or not lift as fast as it should etc...
 
ok

ok

Now we are talking!
You actually know about carbs....all 4 carbs were spotless with new parts but the po put some sort of preservant in only 2 that messed up the plugs. They looked to be sealing well but I'm not 100% would that explain the bogging? It starts ok on full choke but takes like 5 minutes to idle well with no choke and once off choke if I twist it up it just bogs
 
centeno711 said:
Now we are talking!
You actually know about carbs....all 4 carbs were spotless with new parts but the po put some sort of preservant in only 2 that messed up the plugs. They looked to be sealing well but I'm not 100% would that explain the bogging? It starts ok on full choke but takes like 5 minutes to idle well with no choke and once off choke if I twist it up it just bogs
Click to expand...

There are pleanty here that know as much as or much more than I. But fir starters let's find out what your intake and exhaust set up is? Stock airbox or pod filters? Stck exhaust or an aftermarket pipe? There is also a tutorial on disassembling and rebuilding the carbs correctly on the main page. If you didn't do it that way you're chasin your tail. Accepting the POs word that anything was done is simply chancing too much. If I were you I'd order orings from cycleorings.com get yourself a can of dip and follow the tutorial. Do it once the right way and you will be pleasently surprised how much better you will understand how they work and how much better the bike will run.
 
ok

ok

stock exhaust, pod filters. Ill check that carb page and get back to you guys sincerely thanks for the help
 
centeno711 said:
stock exhaust, pod filters. Ill check that carb page and get back to you guys sincerely thanks for the help
Click to expand...

K with pod filters if you don't have a dynojet kit installed you're wasting your time. It's simply not going to run right untill you do. The stock needle will not give fuel to the midrange fast enough. I've seen guys get them "running" by putting rediculously large (rich) main jets in the carbs and shim the stock needle but what you end up with is a bike that does exactly what you're describing. After you clean and re-oring your carbs, spend the $120 or so on the dynojet kit for your bike, follow the instructions and you'll be just about perfect, aside from maybe having to adjust the needle clip position which you can do without removing the carbs from the bike.
 
thanks cafe

thanks cafe

I'm on it like white on rice. Thanks for the info
 
Isn't a freer flowing pipe mandatory with a stage three kit and pods? Might be less expensive and troublesome to just buy a used airbox.
 
I'm having the same issue. Between 2-3.5k rpm.

Idles very nicely and rips above 4000 rpm. 1980 850, all stock.

Pilot mixture screw, will this help get rid of the bog? I think they were around 3 turns out. Will turning it OUT make it richer or leaner? Air screw or fuel screw (the top screw right before it goes into the intake boot)? :-k
 
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