My 1327 build

[gearhead13]

Got my super squirrel starter from Paul Cashio today. I also made up some 6 Ga wires for it too. Dont know when I will have time or energy to get it installed.
Supposed to be first day of spring and it was just hailing out there So its not like im going for a ride anyway.

 

[gearhead13]

The red wires are 6 Ga. The black one is the stock one for comparison.

 

[Guest]

I have a 1327 in mine also. The warm starting is a bear. I didn't know the starters were that much... I am jealous. have fun
Curt

 

[gearhead13]

I have a 1327 in mine also. The warm starting is a bear. I didn't know the starters were that much... I am jealous. have fun
Curt

I paid ~$50 for a starter core off ebay, paid for shipping to LA, then $150 for the rebuild and $40 shipping. As far as I can tell from online fiche the 1100E engines have the proper idler gear (18/55).

 

[gearhead13]

I found the time to install the starter tonight, also did a compression test. #2 was 170 psi the rest were 180-190psi totally cold/dry. No wonder the starter is having a hard time turning it over. I wonder what it is when its warmed up
I also went from a 16 to 17 tooth front sprocket. I also have an 18 tooth as well still new in package. Wheelies are fun, but also dangerous when it happens at 1/2 throttle in mid corner, I could end up in oncoming traffic when the front end comes down.

 

[Guest]

Be careful!
Glad the starter is working out for you.
Fast can be pricey.

 

[gearhead13]

Be careful!
Glad the starter is working out for you.
Fast can be pricey.

I will, thanks.
AWESOME STARTER!! Went for a ride tonight, the new starter flipped it over like it was nothing, even after it was warmed up good
Now I can go for a ride and stop somewhere and not worry if it will start when I go to leave

 

[rapidray]

NOBODY builds a better starter than Paul Cashio. NOBODY!!! Ray.

 

[gearhead13]

Not so great after all. I went for a ride and spent some time idling in traffic, stopped about a block from home to mail some letters and the bike wouldnt turn over Had to push it.
Some guys on OSS said that the when it gets hot the block expands and pinches the idler gear, which makes it harder to turn. Anybody heard of this?
Right now the temp is under 10C riding, it is only going to get worse in the summer when it is 25C+ I am going to richen up the idle mixture screws so maybe it will stay cooler in traffic, might help.
Maybe a few switchable 120mm computer fans blowing on it when im in traffic?

 

[Guest]

What are you using for ground?

 

[gearhead13]

What are you using for ground?

I have one 6 Ga wire going to the block and another 8 Ga to the frame.

 

[Guest]

I have one 6 Ga wire going to the block and another 8 Ga to the frame.

What's the temperature reading when it won't start?

 

[gearhead13]

The stock oil temp gauge only showed 100C, but the engine was too hot to touch. Even just the ignition cover or the very rear parts.

 

[Guest]

Hmm 212 degrees F I don't believe it.
My bike is ok up to 300F (not for extended time)
They make fans for newer bikes that you may get to blow on the oil cooler and engine.
Try a cooler plug
Run 20/50 oil
Are your plugs showing good color? Does it idle ok? You using those 50 pilots I sent you?
What main jet and are you using an adjustable needle?
Man we need to cool this beast down!
Oh yeah what degree is your full advance set at?

 

[gearhead13]

Hmm 212 degrees F I don't believe it.
My bike is ok up to 300F (not for extended time)
They make fans for newer bikes that you may get to blow on the oil cooler and engine.
Try a cooler plug
Run 20/50 oil
Are your plugs showing good color? Does it idle ok? You using those 50 pilots I sent you?
What main jet and are you using an adjustable needle?
Man we need to cool this beast down!
Oh yeah what degree is your full advance set at?

If I had kept riding in traffic I am sure i would have pegged the temp gauge. The heat just hadn't transferred to the oil yet.
I have the 152.5 mains, needles at the third from bottom, any richer and it just burbles. 47.5 pilots, I had the #50's in, couldnt get it to run right. The idle mixture screws might be a little lean.
The plugs have good color.
I found 120mm fans that push 110 cfm each, I could mount them in front of the cylinders with a switch on the handlebars.
I have the stock mechanical advance with a dyna s, set to stock timing advance.
Even with my ignition disabled, the starter will barely turn it past a compression stroke.
I gapped my top ring at .014 which I am told is right for an 80mm bore. The second ring is at ~.018.

 

[rapidray]

First, do you have a GSXR oil cooler on it? If not, GET one on it! Second, the cases don't swell & bind the idler gear. Third, do you have the starter wired so you can spin it with the ignition off & turn the ignition on after it's spinning? Last, how much advance do you have in it & do you have a mechanical advancer or billet? Ray.

 

[gearhead13]

First, do you have a GSXR oil cooler on it? If not, GET one on it! Second, the cases don't swell & bind the idler gear. Third, do you have the starter wired so you can spin it with the ignition off & turn the ignition on after it's spinning? Last, how much advance do you have in it & do you have a mechanical advancer or billet? Ray.

Ray, it wont even turn it past a compression stroke with the ignition disabled. I have a switch wired for ignition disable. I have the stock advancer set to stock advance amount with a dyna s.

 

[Guest]

When I asked you about the ground I meant a starter ground. It may help if you run a ground from the starter. Not sure how good of a ground you get using the cases. Maybe solder an eye and use the bolt on the starter and then use the frame as the ground.

 

[Guest]

don't really think this is your problem but.....
You can measure the circuit's voltage drops to determine how well the conductors work. Use a voltmeter from bat + to starter terminal (one lead on bat, the other on terminal)..... while cranking (ign off). Same on ground side, from bat- to starter case, while cranking. readings should be really low, like < 0.10 vdc. If you get a high reading move your measuring points to "bracket" the problem.
This eliminates any doubt as to whether or not the "grounds" or other connections are good.
Also check battery voltage while cranking, (ign off)it shouldn't drop below 9 vdc. If it does (providing the voltage drop tests have passed ) that may indicate the battery is not capable of supplying enough energy for the hot rod starter motor. It was mentioned earlier that it was "jumped" from a truck battery with the old starter,... try that when it acts up. you cant hurt anything with a bigger battery, as long as you only use 12 volts.
ah, here we go.... http://www.excelauto.com/online/Tech.d/strvdt.html

 

[rapidray]

Something is up with the wiring somewhere because I have SEEN one of Paul's starters fire a hotlapped, 16 to 1 compression, 1500cc GS dragbike motor. Still spun it like it was a stock Hayabusa! Ray.