My 1982 GS750E Project

[Anthony]

Hey all,
I've been posting a lot here recently, and have only posted a couple photos in the owner section. I've been lightly restoring my bike, as in slowly and making it in mechanically sound first. I've also been replacing a lot of cosmetic pieces, as mine was very sad in the beginning. I got it for $450 with 31,300 miles on it. So far, I have put in $1300 to give you perspective on what I've done already. I started in mid June I believe, and I've been documenting some/most of it using albums on Imgur. It just makes it easier to read and keep up with than individual photos and formatting on here. I also don't need to resize anything. So, when I update the albums with new pictures, I will also update in this thread, and you can go to my album link to view new additions/work.

This is my first time working on a motorcycle in depth, or even barely at all. I've owned two before this one (1987 Honda 600F Hurricane, and a 2006 Suzuki Katana 600), and I didn't do much to them when I had them. I've already learned a lot, and plan to keep learning and applying myself with this project. I don't plan on selling it when I get bored because I know that my time and effort into this bike will be worth more than I could ever get for it. Plus, I would to pass her down one day. So with that said, here are my three albums that I have used so far...

1) https://imgur.com/a/kDm6A
2) https://imgur.com/a/1UAtL
3) https://imgur.com/a/0kqvQ

The first two albums will not be updated, as one is a Day 1 album of the condition of the bike, and the second one was my first weekend having it/working on it. The third one will be the one I update, and will link it a long with details in future posts. Thanks for reading, and I hope you like my first project bike!

 

[Anthony]

Going to be firing her up for the first time in a month tonight! need to do a carb sync with my newly acquired Morgan CarbTune, and also going to be adjusting the fuel mixture to get it as close to zeroed in as possible. Please wish me luck and to have little to no issues I will update afterwards.

 

[winfield]

Nice documentation of your work. I appreciate you posting this as I also have a GS750EZ. Mine is the maroon color scheme. Yea, those carbs can be difficult to fit in there. Keep up the good work. Once you get 'er sorted out gives us a ride report on how you like its handling, acceleration, comfort, etc.

 

[Anthony]

Nice documentation of your work. I appreciate you posting this as I also have a GS750EZ. Mine is the maroon color scheme. Yea, those carbs can be difficult to fit in there. Keep up the good work. Once you get 'er sorted out gives us a ride report on how you like its handling, acceleration, comfort, etc.

Thanks Winfield, I've noticed that there isn't a lot of GS750E's on here. When I do searches I always find late 70's or the 1100E models. I know mine isn't rare, but it's still interesting at the least. I will definitely be reporting on how it runs once I mess around with the carb settings. I expect a much better performance than what I had before (bogged from 4-9k, wouldn't go above 9k). I appreciate you looking!

 

[Anthony]

Well, before I could even do a carb sync and fuel mixture testing, I ran into an issue with getting her started. I'm trying to figure it out using another thread I created called "No Fuel?" in carb/fuel/exhaust section. Basically I can't start my bike because fuel is flooding the engine, and if it does run, it only does for 5 minutes, and around 4k rpm. Then it goes down really quick, goes too low, and kills itself. Then it's flooded by then and I can't start it again. Very frustrating, but I will update here once I figure out the issue.

 

[Wheelbreak]

Love the detailed pics! I am subscribing, so make sure you let us know when you update.

 

[Dodik]

great pics of the resto, looks just like my twin, although mine was in rougher shape.

 

[Anthony]

Thanks gentlemen, I've been trying my best at getting my girl into good condition. I am hopeful to get it running good before the riding season is over, but who knows what else I'm going to run into while doing these last few steps I need to do. I plan on doing some more things this week, and will continue to provide updates and photos (along with videos for diagnosing/progress). Thanks for looking! I'm glad people enjoy my first project, I know I do

 

[Dodik]

if you are planning on using stock air box you will most likely need to pull out air restrictors from the carbs, I had an issue with starting that I could not figure out why it ran great but was hard to start. went back to pods and starts great, then it hit me air correctors restrict too much with stock intake.

 

[Anthony]

So the air correctors restrict too much air? How do I get them out, they are glued in... Also, people on here have said that for the stock airbox you need to just go to the 124's that the kit supplies.

 

[eil]

I'm not an expert on carb tuning so rather than offer direct advice, I'll just relate my experience...

My 750E came with a stock airbox and stock exhaust. However the PO, for reasons unknown, installed a Dynojet Stage 3 kit into the carbs. This made the bike run very rich. Resulted in very poor mileage, lacked a bit in power, stank to high heaven. I sourced stock needles and jets and put them in. I was advised by experts here that I could leave the air correctors in and they wouldn't do any harm. However, the stock needles made the bike stumble quite noticeably above 1/4 throttle or so. Went back to the DJ3 needles (kept the stock jets) and now it runs great. Not sure why it doesn't like the stock needles, maybe it's to do with the still-present air correctors. I think it's still a smidge rich and might play with adjusting the needles some whenever I put aside the time to fix my leaking cam chain tensioner.

 

[Anthony]

But with my 4-1 pipe with Supertrapp exhaust, I believe the DJ Stage 1 kit is recommended, which the Stage 3 kit comes with the Stage 1 Mains, which I read is the only difference between the two kits. So, I should be fine with what I have set up, as Kool-aid helped me select what I needed for my current setup and carbs. I think the flooding is definitely do to something with the floats/float valves and my vacuum port not being plugged. At least, I really hope that's all it is.

 

[Dodik]

I also have supertrapp 4-1 but slightly older model I think, every bike will behave differently I guess at this point I would stick to what Kool-aid recommended and just to keep in mind that you might need to do more work later on. I wasn't recommending on pulling them now, only if you encounter issues.

 

[Anthony]

Thanks Dodik for the insight, I will keep it in mind if I run into any future issues once I actually get her running. It will make it easier to diagnose for sure!

 

[Anthony]

So I took the carbs off once again, and the float valves were definitely the issue. The needles were stuck or weren't compressing correctly, so I cleaned the needles and valve seats with rubbing compound and carb cleaner, and now she starts quickly and stays on for the most part. Only issue I am having now is the idle is very wacky, because I think the carbs are badly out of sync. At first it would stay at 4k and not budge until it died, and I fiddled with the sync screws and now I have to rev it to keep it alive. This is a PITA for sure. Maybe I should try messing with the pilot screws first?

 

[eil]

If you messed with the sync screws without a sync gauge, you probably did more harm than good, adjustment-wise. Take the carbs back off, do a proper bench sync. Set the pilot screws at 3 turns out from lightly seated. Reinstall.

Fill the float bowls, pull the choke knob and the bike should start and run in this configuration. If it idles too fast, bring down the RPMs with the idle screw knob thingy. It may idle a wee bit rough until you do a vacuum sync and you may need to tweak the pilot mixture some, but it should run without having the mess with the throttle. If it doesn't, there is probably something else wrong.

 

[Dodik]

have you adjusted or at least checked your valves? and like Eil said do a proper bench sync,

 

[Anthony]

I already did a valve adjustment, and I made sure it was properly bench sync'd before I installed them. I ran a piece of steel wire between all the butterfly valves, and they were all properly adjusted from that test. I also have been using the Morgan CarbTune, and I only started syncing the carbs with that adjusted. It was showing little to no vacuum in the readings, so I thought that this was because of them being out of sync, but that made no sense since I already did a bench sync. The pilot screws are all at 3 turns out from lightly seated. I don't know what's going on, but the sync is probably worse of now since I tried adjusting them to be able to see any readings on the carbtune.

 

[eil]

Huh. Well, it sounds like you're doing everything right but something is being overlooked. Unless you have very leaky intake boots, I'm out of ideas, myself. I would say don't give up, keep tinkering, remember the process of elimination.

I don't know who's near you but maybe if you put out a call for help, someone could stop by.

 

[Dodik]

at this point if you started a bench synced bike that idled at more than 2k rpms there should have been plenty of vacuum.
try this.
bench sync them again.
mixture screws 3 turns out
start the bike. let it warm up, kill the choke.
adjust the idle with the knob/screw on the bottom only do not mess with mixture screws yet. get it as close as possible to 1k rpms or to the lowest setting where bike can run on its own. if it is 2k rpms than let it be.

now stop the engine and connect carb tune.
start the bike
get your idle upto 1500-2000 rpms if it is not there yet. now to get it there use throttle cable adjuster by the grip.
if you still have no reading than you have problem with vacuum (hose not plugged, ripped, bad boots etc) or you may have an issue with cabtune tool itself.
if you do have a reading proceed to sync the carbs. only after the carbs are synced you can start messing with mixture screws