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my bike wont go fast anymore!

  • Thread starter Thread starter my98xplorer
  • Start date Start date
Lack of thrust

Lack of thrust

hello, one simple thing to check is the voltage at your battery when the bike is running. At idle you should have ~14.5 volts and when you bring up the rpm's they should increase slightly. If for some reason your rectifier or stator are at fault you will experience a drop in voltage when you raise the rpm's. When this happens at higher rpm's you can't keep the candles lit and will experience spark blow out and lack of power. I had this problem with my 81 1000 and a new rectifier cured what ailed it . The use of a volt meter is all you need to do this simple test. Use the kiss approach and you can't go wrong. :) Cheers
 
Re: Lack of thrust

Re: Lack of thrust

mckiver said:
hello, one simple thing to check is the voltage at your battery when the bike is running. At idle you should have ~14.5 volts and when you bring up the rpm's they should increase slightly. If for some reason your rectifier or stator are at fault you will experience a drop in voltage when you raise the rpm's. When this happens at higher rpm's you can't keep the candles lit and will experience spark blow out and lack of power. I had this problem with my 81 1000 and a new rectifier cured what ailed it . The use of a volt meter is all you need to do this simple test. Use the kiss approach and you can't go wrong. :) Cheers

hmmm, i shall try that right now!
 
Re: Lack of thrust

Re: Lack of thrust

my98xplorer said:
mckiver said:
hello, one simple thing to check is the voltage at your battery when the bike is running. At idle you should have ~14.5 volts and when you bring up the rpm's they should increase slightly. If for some reason your rectifier or stator are at fault you will experience a drop in voltage when you raise the rpm's. When this happens at higher rpm's you can't keep the candles lit and will experience spark blow out and lack of power. I had this problem with my 81 1000 and a new rectifier cured what ailed it . The use of a volt meter is all you need to do this simple test. Use the kiss approach and you can't go wrong. :) Cheers

hmmm, i shall try that right now!

ok with the bike running i only have about 11.8v, when i rev it up a little it goes to about 11.9. Now i can only rev to about 5,000rpm and the bike just spits and sputters. I can only go like 45mph now. Any ideas??
 
Re: Lack of thrust

Re: Lack of thrust

I'll put it this way. Your bike has two fuel tanks. One holds gas. The other holds electricity. 11.8 volts is an empty tank. Your charging system is not working.

Earl


my98xplorer said:
ok with the bike running i only have about 11.8v, when i rev it up a little it goes to about 11.9. Now i can only rev to about 5,000rpm and the bike just spits and sputters. I can only go like 45mph now. Any ideas??
 
Stator Time.

Sad fact is that igniton coils not only have reduced output when the voltage is low, they use as much electricity as the headlight does.

I saw this really neat battery voltage indicator with thermostat and clock that mounts on the cluster, I think I will get it.
 
Could be stator. Could be R/R. Could be both. Could be that 24 year old battery needs to be replaced. :-) :-)

Earl

duaneage said:
Stator Time.

Sad fact is that igniton coils not only have reduced output when the voltage is low, they use as much electricity as the headlight does.

I saw this really neat battery voltage indicator with thermostat and clock that mounts on the cluster, I think I will get it.
 
Once upon a time, I considered buying a Harley, but realized I could never afford that much oil. :-) :-)

Earl

RacingJake said:
Just be glad it's not a Harley cause you'll have 3 tanks to worry about... the oil tank :?
 
earlfor said:
Could be stator. Could be R/R. Could be both. Could be that 24 year old battery needs to be replaced. :-) :-)

]

I'll bet either the regulator is toast or the main feed from the regulator has a bad connection and the regulator is not seeing the battery. Check the red lead from the regulator back to the battery and see if it is burnt, disconnected, or something.

Still could be the stator but the RR is cheaper and easier to change.
 
earlfor said:
Could be stator. Could be R/R. Could be both. Could be that 24 year old battery needs to be replaced. :-) :-)

Earl

duaneage said:
Stator Time.

Sad fact is that igniton coils not only have reduced output when the voltage is low, they use as much electricity as the headlight does.

I saw this really neat battery voltage indicator with thermostat and clock that mounts on the cluster, I think I will get it.

Battery is only a couple months old, regualtor just went about 2 weeks ago, so whats that leave that i havent replaced?
 
If you're charging voltage is 11.9 @ 5k rpm, then either the R/R, stator or wiring is faulty. The R/R cant charge the battery if it doesnt get the current to start with. Disconnect the three yellow wires of the stator from the R/R and check AC voltage between the phases. Stator AC output should be 80 volts at 5000 rpm. If you have the correct AC output, I would check DC output wire connections on the R/R for continuity to battery. If those are OK, then the problem is the R/R.

Earl


my98xplorer said:
Battery is only a couple months old, regualtor just went about 2 weeks ago, so whats that leave that i havent replaced?
 
ok so i charged the battery up to 12.6v, turned on the bike and checked the voltage again, still at 12.5-12.7. Does that mean the stator is bad? I have an extra one from a 79 gs850 i might try and swap them out if you guys think thats the problem.
 
I have no way of knowing what is wrong if you dont make the checks I asked and tell me the results. The charging system begins with the stator. It outputs three phase, AC voltage. This then goes to the Regulator/Rectifier which stabalizes the current and rectifies it to DC voltage which the battery can use. Everything on your bike runs on DC voltage. Again, there are three yellow output wires from your stator. Those three wires usually end in a plug which plugs into your R/R. Disconnect that plug so that your stator is not connected to anything. If we number those three yellow stator wires 1,2 and 3, then you will need to check ac output between wires 1 and 2 for the 1st phase, between wires 1 and 3 for the 2nd phase and between wires 2 and 3 for the 3rd phase.
Each phase should show 80 volts on your multimeter. The multimeter should be set to the AC 200 scale for this test. There is no positive or negative in AC current, so which meter lead (black or red) goes on which wire does not matter. For phase 1, simultaneously place one meter lead on yellow wire 1 and the other meter lead on yellow wire 2. Repeat this for the other two phases. The engine should be running at 5000 rpm when this test is being done.

If you do not have the correct AC voltage available, the R/R can not process it. Or to put it another way, you cant make something from nothing. :-)

If your stator has the correct voltage output, then the problem is your R/R or ground connections. If the stator is not outputting enough voltage, then your R/R may be either good or bad.

I believe an 83 1100 would use a G-2 stator and a 79 850 would use a G-1 stator. If I'm correct on this, then no, the spare stator you have will not fit.

Earl



my98xplorer said:
ok so i charged the battery up to 12.6v, turned on the bike and checked the voltage again, still at 12.5-12.7. Does that mean the stator is bad? I have an extra one from a 79 gs850 i might try and swap them out if you guys think thats the problem.
 
my98xplorer

Do EVERYTHING Earlfor says. The dude just staight up rules. He knows all and gives very helpfull descriptive instructions and normally tosses a good bit of humor in there with it all which really helps too cause it's real easy to get PO'ed if your workin on your bike and you dont quite understand everything.

I didn't know anything at all about bikes, or even how to use a multimeter for measuring the voltage and stuff. But then Earlfor helped me out and tought me all sorts of stuff. You may not understand as you read it, but once your actually doing it and gain the hands on experince it's all down hill from there.

I bought my bike, an 82 GS 650E and it didnt run. Earl helped me to understand what was going on and we got it runnin. Then it got stolen, recovered, everything was removed and smashed all to hell. I used the knowledge Earl gave me and fixed er up again myself. And Im a complete idiot.

Point is, stick with Earl and do everything he says to the T and you can't go wrong. I can guarantee your bike will be runnin in no time.

Justin
 
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