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my carb problem - help please

  • Thread starter Thread starter windex
  • Start date Start date
W

windex

Guest
I am in the process of bringing back to like a 82 GS1100E. It is not drivable yet. I'm working on the engine/electricals/carbs. I have gotten the engine to run - sort of - and have install the following

My setup:
running stock exhaust
coily relay mod installed
new Dyna coils
New Dyna spark plug wires
DynoJet Stage III kit installed (needles have e-clip on third grove and 2.5 turns out and DH160 jets, main jets per instructions for running pods and stock exhaust - all per the DynoJet instructions
K&N pods
new spark plugs

I can get the bike to start fairly easily, but I have to use choke if it is cold. I have a Motion Pro carb sync on the engine and can get it to read pretty much as the shop manual states.

The thing is running rich and when I go to give it throttle, it boggs down or dies. Before I did the DynoJet install the bike would rev up pretty good.

compression is ok - not perfect but within spec. Plugs are a bit black but not oily or wet.

I'm starting to run out of ideas. I probably need to step away from it for a bit. I'm sure I'm missing something.
 
I'm not the carb expert that many other on the board are, but I would guess that a Stage III kit is a bit of overkill for pods and a stock exhaust. :shock:

Did that kit also come with Stage I options? I would try that, as the black plugs and the bogging down with throttle application seem to indicate an over-rich condition.

.
 
Put the stage one kit in before you do anything else. 160 is WAY TO BIG
You need high comp pistons, cams and a host of other mods to use 160's
 
that caught my attention too, you need stage 1 for your setup
you can however try lowering the needle (leaning the mixture)
 
Put in the stock pilot air jet.
With your setup I'd try the 132 mains and the needle on the third notch up from the bottom.
Did you split the carbs, dip them and put in new o-rings?
 
Thanks all. I will try the stage 1 parts. The kit came with both. The instructions that came with the DynoJet kit said if running a midly tuned setup with pods and stock exhaust to use the Stage III kit.
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf

"STAGE 1​
For mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox, with stock or K&N filter #N/A​

STAGE 3​
For mildly tuned machines using individual filters or velocity stacks. K&N filters #RU-2922​

Both stages may be used with a good aftermarket exhaust​
​
​
"

I did use the DJ132 main jets per the DynoJet instructions (pods and stock exhaust). I will also go back to the stock 180 pilot air jets. I went to the DH160s pilot air jets because the instructions said it would lean out the bottom end.

I did not split the carbs and dip them as they were already running "ok" before I did the DynoJet mod. I could get the bike to start pretty easily and it would rev up when I gave it throttle no problem before the DynoJet install .

Just so I'm on the same page, which orings are you talking about?

Thanks all - I know there are a billion of these carb jetting threads. I did search and tried to figure it out.

Thanks,
Steve aka windex​
 
I had the same problems on my kat. I threw on the MTC open header exhaust instead of the stock, she already had pods, and she ran better, but not great. Dynojet just gives you a configuration ESTIMATE, and every bike, even same models are different, meaning you have to play around with your needle, mains, and such to get it right.

Go to stage 1 and do a plug chop if you can't determine what it needs right off the bat. I can't remember the source here but an o-ring kit is really cheap, Be careful about running her lean too long. Leanness can be costly.

I think your mains are WAY too large, despite Dynojet's recommendations.
 
Mine is a bit rich with stage 3 and pods only as well. I am going to revisit after some other problems are taken care of. I have been stalling because as soon as I can afford it (next month or so) I'm going to a 4 into 1 which might make my current jetting correct. I don't have any bog down, just sooty plugs. Stage 3 IS what they tell you to do (dynojet) with pods only though. Stage 1 is exhaust only. I have a 160 or maybe even a 170 main in mine (again the dynojet recommendation for my bike), the needle on the third position.
 
Thanks. I can't drive the bike right now as it's just coming back to life to do the plug chop (as I understand plug chop based on BassCliff's site).

I have new rubber boots from head to carbs. But I'm still not quite sure what o-rings are being talked about?

I think I will do one mod at a time as follows, seem reasonable?

1) Put back 180 pilot air jets (have the DH160s in there now)

2) Change main jets to DJ110 per the DynoJet instructions (The main jet seems to be the only difference between a Stage I and Stage III kit)

3) Ensure fuel mixture screw is 2.5 turns out (per instructions)

4) Lower the needle one notch (presently on 3rd from top, will move to 2nd from top)

5) regardless of outcome, drink a beer


Thanks again all.
 
Just to clear things up a little, I'm not running a 160 main jet. I'm running the 132.

The 160 jet I'm running is the pilot air jet in from of the carb opening, where the pods slip on. The stock pilot air jet on my cards is 180. The kit said to use 160 to lean out the bottom end. So .... I tried it
 
I'm pretty sure the o-ring they are talking about is the one behind the rubber boots that attach to the manifold. When you pull those boots off there is a rubber o-ring in a groove on the engine side.
 
There is on mine. Number 29 below
0002.Gif
 
Yours may not have it, but when they refer to the rubber o-ring, that's what they are talking about. Most of these bikes have them.
 
ok - got it. Thanks doctorgonzo. Mine does not have that configuration. That clears up that issue at least.
 
I was referring to the o-rings inside the carbs.
The DJ 110 will be too small. Try a 117.5 Mikuni main. The DJ 110 is like a 102.5 Mikuni which is smaller than stock.

Mikuni to Dynojet
Mikuni divided by .9375 = DJ size

Dynojet to Mikuni
Dynojet x .9375 = Mikuni size
 
Last edited:
Thanks chef.
The 117.5 main is what I had with the stock configuration, I'll give it a try.

So which o-rings are you referring to then chef?
 
there's a host of o'rings in the carbs - the ones that are on the fuel connections between carbs, the ones that go on the float needle housing, the ones that go on the air mixture screw, the ones that go on the fuel vent housing....i think that may be it. check out bikecliff's website for rebuild info, it lists the o-rings to replace.
 
Stock main jets should be 112.5 or 110.
The o-rings are under the idle mixture screws, vent Ts, float bowl connector rods, float seat and choke. These are all twenty years + old and need to be replaced. The carb bodies also should be dipped in Berrymans to clean out all the ports and sprayed out with carb cleaner.
I will never jet a bike until I check compression, adjust valves and do up the carbs.
 
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