my "new" 1980 gs550e

[phatts27]

I originally bought this bike because I wanted a windjammer IV for my xs1100, but this bike is far too nice for that fate. I went out today and I took some pics so I figure I may as well post 'em. I know how much you guys like pics! I haven't cleaned her up or even worked on her other than remounting the fairing. She sure does like to be photographed though.

I got the valve tool in the mail today! Maybe tomorrow l'll gather up enough courage to tackle the shims in this sucker.

 

[phatts27]

 

[phatts27]

 

[JamesWhut?]

Nice!!!!

 

[winfield]

I originally bought this bike because I wanted a windjammer IV for my xs1100, but this bike is far too nice for that fate. I went out today and I took some pics so I figure I may as well post 'em. I know how much you guys like pics! I haven't cleaned her up or even worked on her other than remounting the fairing. She sure does like to be photographed though.

I got the valve tool in the mail today! Maybe tomorrow l'll gather up enough courage to tackle the shims in this sucker.

WHat do you plan on doing with the bike--daily commuter, weekend ride, or ?? If it's not a daily commuter then donate the windjammer to your Yamaha and ride 'er naked. It's way more fun.

You got the fixin's for a nice bike there.

 

[phatts27]

Thanks guys,

Winfield, I plan on getting her back on the road first and foremost. I have no intentions of chopping, bobbing, or otherwise altering this fine machine. I do however plan on shining her up and showing her off! I'll be using her as a weekend cruiser. I won't be putting more than 1000 miles a year on her as she is my third bike atm.

The bike certainly looks much cleaner without the vetter but it didn't come with headlight ears or a bucket. What are the chances my bike came from the dealer with the white fairing? Is there some way I can check that out?

Thanks,

Ed

 

[JTGS850GL]

First thing on the list, before you try to ride her, should be a new set of tires. Those my friend are a death trap.

 

[phatts27]

Yeah, they're pretty bad. Plenty of tread, but not much sidewall left between all the hairline cracks

I saw the links on basscliff's site. What an awesome resource!

I have a slight bit of rust in the tank and I'm looking for the solution. I have successfully de-rusted stuff in the past using vinegar and salt but I don't want to do that because of the aluminum petcocks. I'm also nervous to find out how this concoction treats my paint.

If I use electrolysis as described on basscliffs site, will I need to remove the petcocks and sending unit or will they remain unharmed? Will it mess up my paint?

 

[eil]

I've used 6% vinegar for derusting and it works absolutely great. But it does take a while to do its thing. 24-48 hours. Vinegar will not harm the sending unit. And I don't think it would harm the petcock either, as long as you don't use salt. I never have and I'm not sure what it's supposed to do at any rate.

Electrolysis should not harm the paint, but I would remove the sending unit and petcock to be safe. Electrolysis is more finicky to set up, though, so I would personally only bother with it on something very large or very rusty.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

what a lovely survivor thanks for the pics

 

[phatts27]

The salt turns the vinegar into an even stronger acid. I use that for de-rusting heavily rusted steel and cast iron. It also works great at getting rust off of chrome. Ive heard some horror stories of people's petcocks turning to mush when left in the vinegar too long. How long is "too" long?

Also, I'm balls deep into checking my valves right now but I'm having trouble getting the right side cover off. I don't have any rounded bolt heads yet and I'd like to keep it that way. I tried tightening them a little first and then I tried tapping them with a hammer using a plastic handle screwdriver. No luck yet. The bike hasn't been started in a long time I imagine. Should I get her running and let her cool before trying to remove these bolts again? What's the best poa?

 

[eil]

Right side cover... bolts... eh? By bolts do you mean screws?

 

[phatts27]

Sorry, yeah. Screws. I was talking about the timing cover, not the side cover (doh!). In a fit of rage, I managed to get them out. No sloppy heads, thank god. This is where I'm at right about now.

 

[eil]

Instead of metal, Suzuki (and other manufacturers of the day) used swiss and occasionally cheddar or mozzarella for various screws on the bike. Most notorious are the covers on the lower part of the engine. Get yourself an impact screwdriver and stripped screws will be a thing of the past:

At some point, you may want to replace them altogether with stainless steel allen head bolts. Z1 and other places sell complete kits.

Having the valve cover off my engine in the outdoors would make me very nervous. Sand/dirt is extremely abrasive and the slightest breeze can blow it into places that are unreachable by human hands or tools without taking the whole engine apart.

Also I don't see oil in the pockets of your head where the valve buckets and cam lobes are. Did you mop it out or was it like that when you took the cover off? Before putting the cover back on, be sure to put some in.

 

[steve murdoch]

phatts, while you are working on the top end it is a good idea to stuff a rag or paper towel in the camchain tunnel and the spark plug holes.
Crud, bolts and even tools have a nasty habit of finding those cavities.

 

[phatts27]

I was looking t the z1 bolt kits, they seem like a great investment. I think I'll pick up a set.

It was pretty dry of oil in the head when I opened it. That may be because when I picked up the bike from PA, it was loaded on a lifted pickup with no ramps. The front end went up first and had the bike at a pretty serious angle before loading the rear. It had to be greater than 45? but it wasn't quite vertical. Reverse for unloading. I have not attempted to start it because I haven't fiddled with everything yet. Eil, how much oil should I put in there?

I took the photos directly after taking off the cam cover. I have rags stuffed just about everywhere now.Unfortunately, I don't have an indoor workspace. I have a piece of cardboard on top of the head, draped in a canvas bag with a larger trash bag over top. It's all weighed down by a piece of 2x4 I found laying around. I also have the bike cover on and clasped to keep the rain at bay. I would kill for a heated, lit garage!

 

[phatts27]

Ok, I sent Ray a message over there at the gs shim club. I've never done a valve adjustment before. One I figured out how to use the valve tool, I felt like an old pro! Thank you basscliff, I can't type that enough! I'm fairly certain that my engine would have grenaded sooner rather than later with gaps like these.

All sizes metric
Current gap/current shim

Intake
1.) .038/2.70x
2.) .051/2.65x
3.) .038(tight)/2.65x
4.) .063/2.65

Exhaust
1.) .051(tight)/2.65x
2.) .038/2.75
3.) .076/2.65x
4.) .076(loose)/2.65x

 

[phatts27]

This is still new to me. The idea is to get close to .08mm, correct? Do I leave my shims with .076 clearance where they are and address the rest?

Am I doing this right?

Example:I1, .038/2.70x

To get to .08, I would need to subtract .04 from the shim size. Do I need a 2.30x?

 

[Pete's GS]

Oh man, those old Windjammers. Real POS. But Vetter sold over 400,000 of them.

 

[phatts27]

Today, I tore into carbs. Those screws were trouble but a good screwdriver with a vice grip on it made easy work of those suckers. I was only able to remove 1 float hinge today, I have a Ken Talbot tool on order to finish the job.

The bike still had the idle mix plugs in play. I managed to remove the plugs but I am sure I will wreck the idle screws. None are mangled yet, thank God. WHY WON'T THEY COOPERATE! Pb blaster let me down!