My Wife is Wonderful...

[TheBigRed]

For my Birthday she is going to foot the bill to have my 550's frame powder coated!! \\/\\/\\/\\/

Well, now for the technical question about the matter. Obviously, I'm going to need the spot where the Battery grounds itself to not be coated for a good ground, but where else should I worry about not having coating done?

The place it is going to be being done is one of the leading powder coaters in the area, so I'm pretty sure they are going to take the needed precautions on any of the threaded areas (shock mounts/ bolt holes etc) but I'm not sure if they'll think or know where to leave bare metal for grounding purposes.

Any pointers would be appriciated.

Amos B..

 

[edbot]

I had my 77 750 frame powder coated and didn't worry about grounding points until I started the rebuild. Then, using a wiring diagram and a dremel I made sure I had bare metal contact...no problems so far. You can tell from the wiring diagram which components ground directly to the frame. Good luck.

 

[TheBigRed]

I had my 77 750 frame powder coated and didn't worry about grounding points until I started the rebuild. Then, using a wiring diagram and a dremel I made sure I had bare metal contact...no problems so far. You can tell from the wiring diagram which components ground directly to the frame. Good luck.

So I take it it wasn't to difficult to use the dremel to do that. Wonderful, well in that case I think I'll be taking the frame that way maybe today, or at least tomorrow afternoon at the latest.

Then to get back to work on the engine. *sigh* Soo much to do, so little time and other resources...

Amos

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yeah. Cleaning out any powdercoat from that small an area isn't a big deal.
The shop should mask the hole with their heat resistant tape or filling the hole with cork material will work too. Watch the I.D. plate on the frame neck. Tape it with their tape.The powdercoating is at about 450/500 degrees. I had my bearing races removed first, but I was installing new after the work. I'm guessing(?) those temps won't effect the races?

 

[TheBigRed]

Yeah. Cleaning out any powdercoat from that small an area isn't a big deal.
The shop should mask the hole with their heat resistant tape or filling the hole with cork material will work too. Watch the I.D. plate on the frame neck. Tape it with their tape.The powdercoating is at about 450/500 degrees. I had my bearing races removed first, but I was installing new after the work. I'm guessing(?) those temps won't effect the races?

Actually the ID plate has already come off. :? :? Such is life, when I had it sandblasted even as careful as the person doing the job was it came off. I've got it taped on a piece of paper. The VIN is still stamped in the frame, so I figure I can just work with it as it is. As for the bearing races, I'm planning on replacing them as you did as well. In fact I'm pretty much replacing all bearings external to the engine (and depending, maybe even some of those, though I doubt it, since that would require crank work).

Amos

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Just one other thought about the numbers stamped into the neck.
The powdercoat is pretty thick. It may make some numbers/letters hard to read (??). Not sure but it may be best to mask of that area or ask the shop if the numbers could be hard to read afterwards.

 

[edbot]

I took my ID plate off so the sandblasting wouldn't ruin it and never put it back on. The stamped in numbers can still be easily read but as Keith mentioned some powdercoaters may lay it on thicker than others..not sure.

 

[Hoomgar]

Rock on buddy