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Need a cheap valve shim tool. alternatives?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dark Jedi
  • Start date Start date
D

Dark Jedi

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I need a valve shim tool or an alternative. The one that depresses the bucket so you can pull the shim.

My budget has run very low, so it needs to be cheap, or a tecnique to make one/use something else to do the job.

What do you folks reccomend?
 
Be a cheapskate & use a screwdriver!
Anything that you can get in that will allow you to depress the edge of the bucket without damaging it will work OK, as long as it's strong enough.
 
The tool from Suzuki costs $130.00, but you can get the same thing (just about) from Cycle-Recycle (www.crc2online.com) for about $30.00. I wouldn't want some half-assed tool mis-use to leave metal particles in my head, and we all know that the proper tool is a lot easier, safer, and faster to use than some cheap Gerry-rigged method that can have unfortunate consequences.

Harrison
 
I recently did my valves and went with Cycle-Recycle tool. Another little trick that I did was use a magnet to pull the shim once the bucket was depressed. I had much better luck using the magnet then using tweezers.
 
you should NEVER use a magnet to remove the shims! It will cause any ferrous particles in the engine to stick on the shims causing accelerated cam wear. This is also stated in the Suzuki Manual not to do this. :twisted:
 
I second Propflux's warning. The magnetism can also cause the shim to stick to the cam and be spit out of the bucket, which will cause major damage to the cam and valve area. A small dental pick or a very sharp set of needle-nosed pliers work just fine. Just remember to turn the bucket around so that you can see the cutout in the rim of the bucket before you apply the bucket depressor.

Harrison
 
I made my depressor tool out of a 1/4", 3/8" (? not sure right now of the size) piece of keystock material. Its kind of rough looking but I had an idea what the OEM tool looked like from pictures I'd seen and I formed it in the vise to closely resemble it.
I used a grinder to notch out a groove along the curved portion before I bent it.

Its not perfect, but for a less than a dollar and a little time it works a lot better than the screwdriver I had been fighting with.

Come to think of it, the screwdriver worked okay on the outside valves, but the inside ones were tougher to get at and required the tool.
 
NO!!! MAGNETS!!!

NO!!! MAGNETS!!!

DO NOT USE ANY MAGNETS !

That includes magnetized tools. You know like screw drivers. Do not be a cheapskate. Do not use anything but the recomended tools.
 
Thanks for the tips. Cyclerecycle looks like a good option. If I get it express shipped, I can be back on the road by Sunday. Yay!

I tried the screwdriver, I just felt too much risk that I'd slip and gouge the head.

Know about the magnet. I hate that so many people think it's OK, as that adds risk to trading shims with a local motorcycle shop. :?
 
You can get a valve depressor tool from JC Whitney (I think I paid around $25 for mine) works just fine....
 
Just to be clear, when you use a magnet on the shims it magnetizes them, and as has been stated this is not a good thing. It's a good idea to test any metal tool to make sure it hasn't picked up magnetism anywhere (see if it picks up metal filings or not). If you bike is currently running with magnetized shims, you might want to replace them, but then the cams may have picked some up too. I'm betting you could demagnetize the whole shootin' match with a degaussing tool, as used in recording studios. You should be able to pick one up in a decent music store, I forget what I payed for mine but probably under $50. Just go over any metel parts the magnet may have gotten close to, you don't have to worry about damaging fragile recording heads :wink:. Just make sure the unit is well away from anything you don't want magnetized when you turn it off. Just my $.02.
 
So much for my magnet idea. :oops: I guess next time, I'll use non-magnetic tools.
 
I checked my GS650 Factory Service Manual and didn't see any reference to Not using a magnet.

I then checked my factory DRZ400 manual and it specifically says you may use a magnet.
magnetTap.jpg


I have checked the clearances on the DRZ but I have not changed shims so maybe its a different design.

Also, I did check the shims that I did not put back in the bike and they are definitely showing a small amount of magnetism.

I am not advocating using a magnet. I am just posting my findings since you guys pointed this out to me.
 
The magnet reference is from the Clymer manual, I have no comment either way myself.

Steve
 
That's interesting. There's no doubt as to what loose metal will do in an engine, top end included. I guess they feel loose metal is not a likely threat in an engine. Then again, I hate to cook up new conspiracy theories, but that IS a factory manual....... :-k I'll stay away from magnets if there's even a slight doubt.
 
Hotblack said:
Just to be clear, when you use a magnet on the shims it magnetizes them, and as has been stated this is not a good thing. It's a good idea to test any metal tool to make sure it hasn't picked up magnetism anywhere (see if it picks up metal filings or not). If you bike is currently running with magnetized shims, you might want to replace them, but then the cams may have picked some up too. I'm betting you could demagnetize the whole shootin' match with a degaussing tool, as used in recording studios. You should be able to pick one up in a decent music store, I forget what I payed for mine but probably under $50. Just go over any metel parts the magnet may have gotten close to, you don't have to worry about damaging fragile recording heads :wink:. Just make sure the unit is well away from anything you don't want magnetized when you turn it off. Just my $.02.
Click to expand...

But watch what tool you have...

We had two tools in the Cal lab. A degausser and and inductive heater.

They looked identical. One demagnetized items, one caused items to heat up very hot very quickly.

Lets just say the wrench I was demagentizing left a heck of a burn.
 
After I posted the post with the excerpt from my DRZ manual, I got on bike bandit and looked at the parts diagram to see if the design is different. It appears that the DRZ is "shim under bucket" where as the GS is "bucket under shim" maybe thats why it is ok to use a magnet with the DRZ.
 
Hey that sounds like a neat tool, the inductive heater. Won't find too many of those in a recording studio.... I think I see a great opportunity for a practical joke! They look -identical- you say? :lol:

Shim under Bucket could account for the difference. I guess the shim is thoroughly tucked away in that case.
 
Hotblack said:
Hey that sounds like a neat tool, the inductive heater. Won't find too many of those in a recording studio.... I think I see a great opportunity for a practical joke! They look -identical- you say? :lol:

Shim under Bucket could account for the difference. I guess the shim is thoroughly tucked away in that case.
Click to expand...

Homemeade ones look identical.

Unless there is ferrous metal in whatever you put in the inductor, you get nothing. (Maybe some of the other magnetic metals, like nickel?)

If there is magnetic metal, be prepared for a meltdown of any plastics!
 
Just ordered on from the local Yamaha dealer for the FJ. It is aftermarket and is to be used on many bikes, but the picture is identical to the Yamaha tool, $14.95 plus tax (8.1% in Spokane). Should be here tomorrow.

As for the magnet, that is what the Yamaha FJ1100/1200 manual call for to remove the shims.

Kenny
 
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