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need clarification on charging sys troubleshooting flowchart

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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OK, so my 82 1100E has a charging problem. Not surprising. I've gone through the Stator Papers troubleshooting chart up to Part C. In part C
(RR testing) they say to use the diode test setting on my multimeter. That would be in the resistance area, correct? But the flowchart gives results in volts. What gives?

Help! Where am I losing it?

Michael
 
If the stator has passed the tests, you have checked the wiring ------- Just replace the regulator/rect, The only sure way to test is to see if it charges on a running bike
 
diode testing

diode testing

On good digital multi-meters, there is a specific setting for diode testing. It definitely is not the resistance test area of the meter. Beg, borrow or buy a good one.
 
I believe it does charge, but weakly. Only 12.4V at 2500 rpm. Should be higher, right? More like 13.5? 5000 rpm is still only 12.something.

It certainly is good news that my stator is OK, but I would like to know the cause of the weakness so I can fix it. And if the RR is partly bad, I want to replace it before it goes all the way and blows the heck out of my stator.

Michael
 
Re: diode testing

Re: diode testing

phillsaska said:
On good digital multi-meters, there is a specific setting for diode testing. It definitely is not the resistance test area of the meter. Beg, borrow or buy a good one.
Click to expand...

digital_multimetr_ar_9901_b.jpg


In the above image, the diode tester is in the resistance section, no?

Perhaps someone can explain to me how it is that we are looking for a voltage reading.

Michael
 
Me thinks the voltage reading that is discussed is for those who dont have the special tester and only have the basic voltmeter. :-k
 
12.4 is battery voltage, you should get a reading about 14V at 5K rpm.
Their reading is taken with a analog meter not a digital one. If you are getting 70-80 volts AC from the stator, no shorts to gnd ??? yes?? change the reg/rect
 
Don Watson said:
Me thinks the voltage reading that is discussed is for those who dont have the special tester and only have the basic voltmeter. :-k
Click to expand...

So maybe when they say "diode test position" they're just meaning the high precision volt meter?

Michael
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
12.4 is battery voltage, you should get a reading about 14V at 5K rpm
Click to expand...

Yes, but I'm not. So I'm trying to find the problem.

Michael
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
12.4 is battery voltage, you should get a reading about 14V at 5K rpm.
Their reading is taken with a analog meter not a digital one. If you are getting 70-80 volts AC from the stator, no shorts to gnd ??? yes?? change the reg/rect
Click to expand...

Yup, I'm thinking so. I guess it's really the last thing that can be wrong...

So I guess it really doesn't matter on the exact diagnosis. RR is it.

mmkay.

Michael
 
Heuly crap those things are expensive. I figured more like $30-50. But $120!!! How much do silicon and aluminum cost these days!!?

(Yeah, I'm just bitching. Sorry about being so snippy on this thread. Just frustrated with the troubleshooting. Thanks for the help)

Michael
 
my guess is your pocket book is like mine. (opens wallet and finds a big dust cloud) :(
 
Yeah, just got 95% laid off and veery low on the cash-ola. Need to hurry up and sell my old car. Free up some dough.

Just in case:

Subaru Legacy Wagon for sale. Good shape. Automatic tranny. New CV joints, windshield, battery, alternator, starter, tires. Recent belts and muffler. Sony XPLOD stereo. A/C, power locks and windows. $3000 OBO Richland, WA.

Michael
 
Your diode test setting is in the green section of you meter. from the top it reads ohms then continuity then the third one measures your diodes :arrow:
Mark
 
mvg357 said:
Your diode test setting is in the green section of you meter. from the top it reads ohms then continuity then the third one measures your diodes :arrow:
Mark
Click to expand...

yeah but on the meter it is not in the section for any voltage. if he put voltage accross the leads while turned to that spot he will fry his meter.
 
I'm gonna tag along on this thread. I have virtually the same meter and am interested in knowing how to use it properly.
 
Re: need clarification on charging sys troubleshooting flowc

Re: need clarification on charging sys troubleshooting flowc

There is a simple way of checking the charging system. The stator outputs AC voltage and the voltage varies with engine rpm. Disconnect the three yellow output wires of the stator from the R/R. Set the multimeter to the AC voltage scale and measure the voltage between each of the three legs/phases of the stator with the engine at 5000 rpm. The measured voltage will be 80 volts if the stator is functioning properly. If you have 80 volts, then reconnect the stator leads to the R/R. Reset the meter to measure DC voltage. Measure voltage at the battery terminals. Run the engine again at 5000 rpm. If using an Electrex R/R, design output will be 14.7 volts. Any voltage at 5000 rpm between 14.2 and 14.8 is servicable/acceptable. If the voltage is below that range, the R/R is faulty.
If the voltage is above 14.9 at 5000 rpm, the R/R is faulty. If the voltage continues to climb if rpm is increased beyond 5000, the R/R is faulty.

Earl




mopolopo said:
OK, so my 82 1100E has a charging problem. Not surprising. I've gone through the Stator Papers troubleshooting chart up to Part C. In part C
(RR testing) they say to use the diode test setting on my multimeter. That would be in the resistance area, correct? But the flowchart gives results in volts. What gives?

Help! Where am I losing it?

Michael
Click to expand...
 
Michael,

I have the same problem, and am doing the same thing. Stator checked OK at 77V A/C @ 4500 all three phases. Close enough. But on my digital meter when I switch to the diode test for the RR the reading is in ohms not volts. Two of the three test were open anyway. Then I checked it in ohms and got pretty much the same thing. Seems the RR is bad.

My major concern is with the bike running and everything connected the charging voltage is low, yeah OK. But the red wire coming from the RR gets pretty hot pretty fast as does the RR. In say 1 minute or so.

I wonder if the RR is drawing off the system to GRD and thats what makes the red wire so hot? Ah, I have and idea, be right back.

Nope, that was a lie. Tried it again and its the stator wires that are getting hot. The red just happens to be in that bundle. But, running only 30 seconds or so to take a reading you still can't touch the RR. Now I am seeing how when the RR fails it overheats the stator and takes it out also. And why some people put in a new RR and everythings fine and a little while later the Stator goes, becaused it was stressed during the RR failure. It's all getting clearer now.

Calling Elextrex Monday to get another RR.
 
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