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need help with starter relay

  • Thread starter Thread starter steve vu
  • Start date Start date
Assuming the kill switch is on RUN, when you press the START button, do you hear the relay "CLICK?"

If you don't, the problem may either be with the wiring leading to and from the relay, or it may be a bad relay. Here's how you test the relay after you've determined you didn't hear any click(assuming your battery is charged):

Disconnect the high current lead that goes from the relay to the starter motor (it's usually bolted to the relay) ? Hook up each of your multimeter probes to the two high current leads on the relay to test for continuity (Ohms) ? Turn the key to the "ON" position and the kill switch to the "RUN" position and be sure the bike is in NEUTRAL. ? Press the starter button. ? If the relay "clicks" and the meter reads 0 (zero) Ohms, the relay should be ok. ? If you heard no click or the meter doesn't read real close to 0 Ohms, let go of the start switch. Disconnect all wires from the relay (mark them so you know where they go back on).

Measure the resistance between the two low current leads (where the small wires went) on the relay, if it's infinity, the relay is probably bad. If it's zero (literally) then the relay is probably bad. Check your service manual to find out what the resistance is supposed to be if you are still curious.
 
Of course, that's only going to happen with the key ON and the clutch lever pulled in
Click to expand...

On my 750L, the clutch lever does not have to be depressed to start the bike. Just turn the key and hit the button. It's been that way since I bought it..I figured thats the way the bike was designed. My KZ which is an 81 needs the clutch lever pulled in.
 
almarconi said:
On my 750L, the clutch lever does not have to be depressed to start the bike. Just turn the key and hit the button. It's been that way since I bought it.
Click to expand...
Are you the original owner? :-k

This is one of the first things that many of us change when we get a 'new' GS. :D

.
 
oh yeah...the clutch lever.....

oh yeah...the clutch lever.....

This "remember to pull in the clutch lever post" just saved me tearing my bike apart to figure out what was wrong.

duh.

Thanks!
 
Cut outs

Cut outs

My ESD does not need the clutch pulled in but it won't start with the lights on. I don't have the manual to hand to check if it was designed this way or just too much current draw causing the problem (which it is as I drive with my lights on at all times and so in the event of a stall it adds to the restart overhead)
 
TinySherpa said:
My ESD does not need the clutch pulled in but it won't start with the lights on. I don't have the manual to hand to check if it was designed this way or just too much current draw causing the problem (which it is as I drive with my lights on at all times and so in the event of a stall it adds to the restart overhead)
Click to expand...
Do a search for "coil mod" This will help your starting. How's your battery and charging system?
 
Thank you Sir !

Thank you Sir !

From this I take it that not starting with the lights on is not a design feature !
I will research "coil mod". Battery is good but charging system not. I top it up once a week with a charger - a sort of 'total loss' system !
 
Won't start with lights on

Won't start with lights on

Yes it does start easier after a charge.
I better clarify the 'wont start with lights on' symptoms as the 'coil mod' seems to be aimed at hard starting while cranking. My symptoms are no sign of life at all when pressing the starter button if the lights are on. That is why this thread caught my eye "Testing starter relay". I think I better do these basic checks before wasting anyone's time further.
 
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