• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Need help with valve shims

  • Thread starter Thread starter slyone
  • Start date Start date
S

slyone

Guest
what's with my shims, They seem to thick to remove?? help! I'll try an even thicker ziptie.....
 
Last edited:
what are you using to compress the valve buckets? you are not compressing them enough. you need to use the correct tool to do it properly
 
If the cam is in the correct position and the valve sleeve is down (which it should be) they should be able to slip out. There's never too much room between the shim and the cam lobe but enough to tip them up and pull them out with a needle nose. Have you been able to get any of them out?
 
Put the shim back in and make the folded port of the zip tie thicker so the valve is held open more. This will increase the gap between the cam and the shim. This is why i was discussing the very issue of using a THICKER guage tie in your other thread.. Ive been there and done that already.
 
Got It! just used a Huge zip..rated at 175lbs! shim is a 2.75 so I'll want a 2.70 for this one...
 
What was the initial gap reading before you took out the shim?? When you replace a shim, roll the engine around so it depresses the new shim firmly into the bucket..THEN you remeasure the gap and see if the valve is now within tolerances. And be 100% certain the new shim is fully in the bucket and sitting flat before you release the zip tie tention.
 
yea, looks like the 3 that were tight(would not accept .03mm) are all 2.75 shims. Of course the battery on dig.caliper is dead:( I used a micrometer, they're all 109. I believe I should get 3 2.70 shims??
 
Sounds reasonable..at least the extra .05 in clearance wont throw you over the .08 limit. Then you can recheck each with the 2.70 and fine tune if you feel it necessary.
 
how would you fine tune? Also are these 29mm, I thought I read 29.5mm? I called my local Suzuki, the kid says he has 3 of the 2.70 x 29mm in stock-will swap..I'm off, will post back in an hr...Thanks!
 
Last edited:
By fine tune i mean this...say you put the 2.70s in and you measure them again and the gap is at .07 now. Idealy you want all the valves as close to each other as possible ( I personally shoot for .05 across the board ). So now you are .02 OVER the .05 optimal reading...so that valve now would need a 2.68 to be spot on at .05...follow me? If you have a buddy that has acess to a surface grinder he can take some LIGHT skims off the shims to make you the right thickness from one thats too thick..By the way..only 59 posts and youre fealessly tackling these issues...great job.
 
59 posts already..LOL talk about thick-headed..now I'm feelin really stupid:rolleyes: Wow I'm surprised they had a crap load, I got 3-2.70x29.5 and 3-2.65x29.5 for $20.00:D
 
OK, Thanks guys, got them all within spec.now!
#2 I & #4 I&E all too tight all had 275's I installed 270's for .05mm except last shim for #4 I was actually 273 so I checked my additional 265's I got just in case & one was 268 which one inserted gave me a .08mm so I guess I'll just go with it. That was extremely simple but tedious. I used the 2ft zip ties from harborfreight for like $2.00 and snipped the end off and they only charged me $3.30 ea. for shims! Wow, I never thought it would be so easy & cheap!
now I gotta clean the gaskets-BOOO!!! and reassemble, then get back to the carbs. Looks like I might be riding next week afterall!:D
 
chuck hahn said:
When you replace a shim, roll the engine around so it depresses the new shim firmly into the bucket..THEN you remeasure the gap and see if the valve is now within tolerances. And be 100% certain the new shim is fully in the bucket and sitting flat before you release the zip tie tention.
Click to expand...
All very true. When I do a valve check, I will check all the clearances, replace all the ones that are necessary, then press the starter button for 5-10 seconds, so the cams will push all the shims into their proper places, then measure the clearances again and change any shims that might be necessary. When all the clearances are good, I will close it up.



slyone said:
yea, looks like the 3 that were tight(would not accept .03mm) are all 2.75 shims. Of course the battery on dig.caliper is dead:( I used a micrometer, they're all 109. I believe I should get 3 2.70 shims??
Click to expand...
One hundred and nine WHAT???



slyone said:
how would you fine tune? Also are these 29mm, I thought I read 29.5mm? I called my local Suzuki, the kid says he has 3 of the 2.70 x 29mm in stock-will swap..I'm off, will post back in an hr...Thanks!
Click to expand...
Do NOT use the 29mm shims, they are 29.5mm.



chuck hahn said:
By fine tune i mean this...say you put the 2.70s in and you measure them again and the gap is at .07 now. Idealy you want all the valves as close to each other as possible ( I personally shoot for .05 across the board ).
Click to expand...
Not sure how critical it is that they all match, as long as they are all within specification.


chuck hahn said:
So now you are .02 OVER the .05 optimal reading...so that valve now would need a 2.68 to be spot on at .05...follow me? If you have a buddy that has acess to a surface grinder he can take some LIGHT skims off the shims to make you the right thickness from one thats too thick.
Click to expand...
A 2.68 is pretty close to a 2.65x shim, if you want to "fine-tune".

Personally, I would not recommend skimming any shims. Not only do you stand a chance of making the surfaces non-parallel, but now the size that is stamped on there is not correct, and you have a shim whose thickness is only accurate for this valve in this bike at this time. In other words, it is now a "disposable" shim.



slyone said:
..., I got 3-2.70x29.5 and 3-2.65x29.5 for $20.00:D
Click to expand...
You STOLE those things, great job. :clap: :clap:

.
 
Cool, yea Thanks Steve and Chuck, great info and help! the last 1 was actually .07 so I'm good now.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top