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Need Instructions: Dynojet kit 82 GS650

  • Thread starter Thread starter ejether
  • Start date Start date
E

ejether

Guest
Hi all,
I just got my Dynojet Stage 3 kit and it didn't come with the 'detailed instructions.'

I think I could put it together 90% but I would really rather have the manual if anyone out there has a pdf, or a copy they could sent me I would greatly appreciate it.

This kit seems to be the ONE kit that isn't available on their website.
DRAT

Thanks in advance
 
I'm not sure if that is a lapse on their part or not. But, I used the info for the 550 I think if that helps =) It's really a breeze if you've have them apart before for cleaning.
 
I've taken apart 82 650 carbs and 81 550 carbs.
They were nearly exactly the same thing.

I think the only difference that I noticed was something on the choke, and some springs and crap.
 
Clayton! said:
I'm not sure if that is a lapse on their part or not. But, I used the info for the 550 I think if that helps =) It's really a breeze if you've have them apart before for cleaning.
Click to expand...

Turns out they don't even HAVE detailed instructions...
Well, no matter, the guys I talked to on the phone were very helpful and the kit is in and the bike starts and runs happily.

The idle is steady but high once I take the choke off. I'm going to play with the idle screws when its not raining and I can get a little more gas.

Do ya'll have any handy tips for dialing the performance in?

Thanks!
 
ejether said:
The idle is steady but high once I take the choke off. I'm going to play with the idle screws when its not raining and I can get a little more gas.

Do ya'll have any handy tips for dialing the performance in?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

do a vacuum sync. ride it for a bit, try and stick to one range at a time. 1/4, 1/2..etc and check your plugs in between. shim your needles as needed
 
put the needle in the middle - pick the middle main jet - drill the slide and put in the springs-if included. get the float heights proper.

Get it to idle cold and hot as nice possible first.

main jet is second tuning concern. color of the plug - just not black/ not coughing at W.O.T. above 8K rpm's - might start with your old plugs and then get a new set after you get it rideable

your needle position is going to be effected by weather and baro. do it last starting in the middle groove. I like to move 2 grooves at a time so I know if the change was in the right direction.

don't worry after you get the plug color any thing but black - and it pulls like a demon all the way to redline in 4th/top gear-- you can tune the off idle hesitation out of it with very slight needle changes (like the half shims)- due to the barometer and humidity.
 
I have a copy of the instructions for a GS 1000.
I believe they would be the same if your carbs are of the CV type?
Send me a PM with your mail address to get a copy
 
Thanks John, I've already got the kit in now.

Its idling at like 3-4K though, without the choke.

I put the jet kit in because it wasn't running without the choke on stock jets with the pods that came on the bike. It didn't run, so I was able to get the bike cheaply.
When I put the choke on, after its warm, it revs. The main idle adjustment knob does nothing

Am I right in thinking that this wouldn't be fixed by tweaking with the mixture screws?
It seems like I'm still getting too much air and am running lean. Is this something I can tweak with the kit, or is there something else up?
 
I faced a similar issue when I could not get an engine to idle.
The problem came from the fact that the carbs were badly out of synch.
What happens is that one carb slide rests at a very small opening while the others are way too open to allow any idle.
Try and get the carbs to open by the same amount at least visually to start off.
Good luck!
 
John Kat said:
I faced a similar issue when I could not get an engine to idle.
The problem came from the fact that the carbs were badly out of synch.
What happens is that one carb slide rests at a very small opening while the others are way too open to allow any idle.
Try and get the carbs to open by the same amount at least visually to start off.
Good luck!
Click to expand...

Money shot John!

I did a bench sync and had her idling happily at 1100 rpm in no time.

Sadly after a ride, it was back up at 3K but after it cooled a bit, it was down to normal..
Gremlins gremlins gremlins...

Thanks!
 
Glad to hear that helped !
Carbs are the most troublesome parts of an ( old) engine.
I highly recommend following the complete carb overhaul procedure described elsewhere.
Make sure you buy the carb repair kit also, it will avoid a lot of frustration...
 
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