OK. Hope it runs well and you're done.
If you do need help, I work all day tomorrow but I'll try to check in in the evening here.
Hope for good news from you.
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If you do need help, I work all day tomorrow but I'll try to check in in the evening here.
Hope for good news from you.
Are you sure that this is possible?. There's a locking key that prevents the shaft from floating during throttle operation. This key would end up out of position as would the throttle cable fulcrum, if the shaft was installed incorrectly.
I don't think I explained it very well; I didn't mean getting the 2 ends round the wrong way (ie swapping left for right) - as you say that would be obvious and wouldn't fit at all. What I meant was spinning the rod on it's axis 180 degrees.
You'd think it wouldn't matter, and maybe it doesn't usually (I never used to notice which way round I put it and things worked - I couldn't have been that lucky) but I got it wrong once, worked it out and have always ever since checked it's right.
N
nitrogs
Guest
Hi Guys,
Struggling with the carbs. Struck her up to vac synch,showing a low vacuum, in fact very low vacuum on cylinder 3 on low rpm 1100/1500 compared to the other three cylinders which are fairly equal. The vac picks up on cylinder 2 but lags the others at 3000rpm. If I adjust other cylinders down to the low vac on cylinder 2 this is what loses me the ability to adjust idle , i.e ticksover at 1800 rpm, no matter how much you unscrew the idle adjuster. Any ideas guys please
Struggling with the carbs. Struck her up to vac synch,showing a low vacuum, in fact very low vacuum on cylinder 3 on low rpm 1100/1500 compared to the other three cylinders which are fairly equal. The vac picks up on cylinder 2 but lags the others at 3000rpm. If I adjust other cylinders down to the low vac on cylinder 2 this is what loses me the ability to adjust idle , i.e ticksover at 1800 rpm, no matter how much you unscrew the idle adjuster. Any ideas guys please
Ok, it appears that Suzuki stuffed up their drilling and tapping of your shaft if that happened. If drilled accurately, you should be able to assemble the slides 180 deg apart without affecting the slide syncro.
Dave, if you have followed Keith's suggestions for getting your slides synced with the adjuster screws centralised, you should have been good to go.
You need to consider the following things.
1. You have something drastically wrong with the carbs, or you have a serious air leak in the inlet system. When you have one bank seriously lower than the others, it's better to adjust the vacuum upwards instead of bringing the other 3 down.
2. I don't recall reading that you have successfully completed a compression check? Low compression on that pot will affect your synching attempts.
3. Have you recently done a valve clearance check?
These are the most likely areas to re-check.
Just an after thought, you're not running VM carbs on a later model CV head are you?
If so, the port and carb boot diameters will be badly mismatched and likely to cause the slow running conditions that you're describing here.
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Dave, I know what you're dealing with and it's not easy to describe the fix in type. I doubt anything else is causing the vacuum problem because you've synched before without issue. Obviously you've just adjusted too much and the carbs will react as they've done.
You DO mention # 3 being low from the start and it makes me think you could have induced a vacuum leak by not connecting the vacuum tool correctly?? If you're SURE the tool is connected right and your bench synch has been done carefully...
I've always found that after a good bench synch, the vacuum levels are all high enough so no drastic changes are necessary. Maybe just my luck? Then I simply lower the high ones to match the lower ones. Not much adjustment is needed. However, if yours are off quite a bit more to begin with and using my method seems to lead you into trouble, then by all means reverse your adjustment procedure. To get them reasonably even, adjust them any way that looks like it's easiest. I'm sure you've seen on your vacuum tool that making a change to one cylinder can effect another? After all, thet ARE connected. Sometimes you have to "split" your adjustment and SLIGHTLY adjust two cylinders to get them to match, instead of focusing on one cylinder. Hope I'm not just adding stress. Like I said, it's much easier to be there than type what's happening.
Years ago I had this problem a couple times and each time if I adjusted the vacuums higher and higher, trying to even them, I soon reached the point where I kept turning down the idle knob until it no longer could lower the idle. I stopped doing it that way and also paid MUCH more attention to my bench synch to begin with.
I think I'm not helping you much right now and I wish I could be there to help. Starting over is the only way I know of to fix this problem. If you keep ending up with the same problem I'm not sure what to say.
Using a base idle of 1,000/1,100 rpm's is very important though. Be sure the holder nuts for the slide adjuster screws are backed off enough so you can make smooth turning adjustments as needed. The nuts can turn with the screw and complicate simple/minor adjustments.
Just be sure you don't over-heat. Use two big fans. The more wind the better.
Dave, if you still need help, try this...
Re-bench synch as I said earlier. Loosen all 4 adjusters and set them reasonably uniform. Adjust the slides as carefully as you can.
Now, UNIFORMLY turn all 4 adjusters in the appropriate direction that will ADD some vacuum straight accross. If done carefully, the slides should still be uniform but this method should help stop any initial too-low vacuum levels. "Temporarily" snug things down in preparation for start up, just so things aren't loose.
Maybe this method will counter something you may be doing that's resulting in such low vacuums at start up.
Re-bench synch as I said earlier. Loosen all 4 adjusters and set them reasonably uniform. Adjust the slides as carefully as you can.
Now, UNIFORMLY turn all 4 adjusters in the appropriate direction that will ADD some vacuum straight accross. If done carefully, the slides should still be uniform but this method should help stop any initial too-low vacuum levels. "Temporarily" snug things down in preparation for start up, just so things aren't loose.
Maybe this method will counter something you may be doing that's resulting in such low vacuums at start up.
N
nitrogs
Guest
Hi Guys,
Thank you for the comments. Just wondering, I am using a auxillary minimoto petrol tank for my fuel supply to do the synching. Does the vacuum pipe that usually connects to the fuel tap need to be plugged or something or is it okay left disconnected. Havent been able to play today unfortunately. But can say yesterday, played very close attention to the bench synch and all looked good, started well. On the synch gauge and 1, 2 and 4 cylinders looked fairly consistent but number 2 cylinder down on vacuum. Thank you for your words of wisdom Keith I will keep trying.
Thank you for the comments. Just wondering, I am using a auxillary minimoto petrol tank for my fuel supply to do the synching. Does the vacuum pipe that usually connects to the fuel tap need to be plugged or something or is it okay left disconnected. Havent been able to play today unfortunately. But can say yesterday, played very close attention to the bench synch and all looked good, started well. On the synch gauge and 1, 2 and 4 cylinders looked fairly consistent but number 2 cylinder down on vacuum. Thank you for your words of wisdom Keith I will keep trying.
You need to plug the vacuum pipe otherwise it'll suck air straight in and you'll get way off figures.
That's my guess to - but if they did it once.......?
Reminds me of my brother-in-laws 350 bullet single. His model, 2003 from memory, was made in India. It wouldn't idle properly, so we checked it out. The machining quality was pathetic. The rocker bearings for camshaft had been drilled on a bench press, with deep spiral grooves and ample clearance. The push rods were eccentric and spun wildly when the engine was running. We didn't have a "snowballs show in hell" of setting the tappet clearances accurately.
You get what you pay for, usually!
N
nitrogs
Guest
Hi Keith, 49er , hampshirehog
It looks like I may have made a fundamental mistake, I used an auxillary fuel tank to which I connected the fuel pipe and I forgot about the vacuum (suction) pipe which was left open. I have blanked the vacuum pipe and tried the synch gauges again and the levels are much more similar, I have adjusted the slightly higher readings to the lower and all four cylinders match up at 3000rpm now. I have run out of time for the moment as we are due to fly to Spain in 4 hours for 10 days. I will be in touch on my arrival back and it is straight into road testing the circuits, hopefully everything will be fine this time. Look forward to speaking shortly until then I would like to thank you for your continual help.
Dave
It looks like I may have made a fundamental mistake, I used an auxillary fuel tank to which I connected the fuel pipe and I forgot about the vacuum (suction) pipe which was left open. I have blanked the vacuum pipe and tried the synch gauges again and the levels are much more similar, I have adjusted the slightly higher readings to the lower and all four cylinders match up at 3000rpm now. I have run out of time for the moment as we are due to fly to Spain in 4 hours for 10 days. I will be in touch on my arrival back and it is straight into road testing the circuits, hopefully everything will be fine this time. Look forward to speaking shortly until then I would like to thank you for your continual help.
Dave
Dave, you sure threw me a curve.
Here I sat trying to figure out what could be going wrong. Based on your posts and the fact you had synched several times before, I never thought you could forget to plug the vacuum port. Actually, this has happened many times over the years so maybe I should have thought of it.
It is however very easy to over-adjust and before you know it the bike is idling too high and the throttle pulley is no longer making contact. No vacuum leak needed to make it happen. That's why I emphasize a good bench synch and then adjusting the higher level(s) down to the lower ones.
I think the bike should run fine. Maybe a little fine tuning of the pilot circuit at the most. Jet needle position 4 was too rich. 3 was lean. Nowhere to go but 3 1/2.
Have a good trip. Looks like you'll be back about August 6th? If so, I'll try to see how things are but I'll be going up to Yellowstone on August 9th and I'll be gone until August 20th. So I may not be able to help if you need it. I'm sure others here will help.
I want to hear how happy you are with the bike
ray: so please let us know.
Here I sat trying to figure out what could be going wrong. Based on your posts and the fact you had synched several times before, I never thought you could forget to plug the vacuum port. Actually, this has happened many times over the years so maybe I should have thought of it.It is however very easy to over-adjust and before you know it the bike is idling too high and the throttle pulley is no longer making contact. No vacuum leak needed to make it happen. That's why I emphasize a good bench synch and then adjusting the higher level(s) down to the lower ones.
I think the bike should run fine. Maybe a little fine tuning of the pilot circuit at the most. Jet needle position 4 was too rich. 3 was lean. Nowhere to go but 3 1/2.
Have a good trip. Looks like you'll be back about August 6th? If so, I'll try to see how things are but I'll be going up to Yellowstone on August 9th and I'll be gone until August 20th. So I may not be able to help if you need it. I'm sure others here will help.
I want to hear how happy you are with the bike
ray: so please let us know.