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Need to flush my engine!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Boozy Creek Beast
  • Start date Start date
B

Boozy Creek Beast

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I have a 1980 1100E and have just honed the cylinders replaced the rings, replaced the valve seals, reground my valuve ports and replaced all the gaskets. I do not want to put all of these clean parts into a dirty engine. With out splitting the case what would be the best way to flush the rest of the engine and what solvents should I use.

The Beast :twisted:
 
Here's what I have found best, others may disagree.....
On 1st crank up, run the engine with normal 10/30/40... for about 20 mins.
Then go ahead and change the oil and filter.
Run engine again with 10/30/or 40, run for about 2 hrs, maybe 50 miles.
Change oil and replace with oil grade/brand of which you prefer.

To really clean out a crappy engine (car) transmission fluid is one of the best ways I have found, BUT I have never tried it on a motorcycle because of the clutch aspect.
 
Tranny fluid shouldnt hurt the clutch, auto transmissions have friction disks just like our bikes do.
 
Hmmm. How about pulling the oil pan, and oil screen. That alone will get rid of most of the garbage in the motor. If you want it cleaner than that, spay it with solvent, or HOT high pressure water. Dry thoroughly with an air hose. Squirt some oil on the crank journals and back into the tranny and move things about.
 
Ok, if thats the case, run it on 50% OIL and 50% transmission fluid for the 1st 20 mins then flush it again with 10/30/40 run for 50 miles then put the oil you want in it.
 
Swanny said:
Hmmm. How about pulling the oil pan, and oil screen. That alone will get rid of most of the garbage in the motor. If you want it cleaner than that, spay it with solvent, or HOT high pressure water. Dry thoroughly with an air hose. Squirt some oil on the crank journals and back into the tranny and move things about.

I'm with Swanny on this one. You cannot reach all of the crank from the oil pan so you must access from the top before you put the cylinders on.

Hap
 
Re: Need to flush my engine!!!

Boozy Creek Beast said:
I have a 1980 1100E and have just honed the cylinders replaced the rings, replaced the valve seals, reground my valuve ports and replaced all the gaskets. I do not want to put all of these clean parts into a dirty engine. With out splitting the case what would be the best way to flush the rest of the engine and what solvents should I use.

The Beast :twisted:

Take off the sump, fill a spray bottle with a 70/30 paraffin/oil mixture and give it a good hosing from underneath while turning over the engine by hand. Got good results when I did this. By the way I think on your side of the pond paraffin=kerosene.
 
Hap Call said:
Swanny said:
Hmmm. How about pulling the oil pan, and oil screen. That alone will get rid of most of the garbage in the motor. If you want it cleaner than that, spay it with solvent, or HOT high pressure water. Dry thoroughly with an air hose. Squirt some oil on the crank journals and back into the tranny and move things about.

I'm with Swanny on this one. You cannot reach all of the crank from the oil pan so you must access from the top before you put the cylinders on.

Hap
Yea, what he said. Before the cylinders go on. :wink:

I've always cleaned my engines the final time with hot soapy water. Most of the top engine builders that I know of do this also. Just remember to dry thoroughly and put a light coat of oil on the machined surfaces. If the engine is going to be together in a few days, even the uncoated parts won't have time to rust. Generally, high carbon steel is used and it doesn't rust easily anyway.
 
And did you scrub out those honed cylinders? Lots of hot soapy water and a scotchbrite recommended in there to remove all those particles.

Use a paper towel to wipe the bore and see if it comes out black. If so, repeat.

Then wipe dry and lightly oil the bore.

As for the cases, just pull the oil pan and see how dirty it is before you start on any drastic measures
 
I just did my 750 a couple of months ago big bore kit ect and this was a big concern of mine also as i know some junk got past the rags and in the crankcase when i pulled the cylinders. So what i did was pull the oil pan and
oil pickup screen I then filled o dish soap botttle of engine oil and shot it everyware inside upside down ect. I dont believe its a good idea to put solvents in the crankcase because of the old seals my be damaged. Then after careful wiping and inspection a put the motor together and filled it with cheap oil and filter pulled the plugs and ran the starter in 30 second or so icrements until it built oil pressure ( i asume now the oil had made its way thru the motor) then i let the cheap oil drain and changed the filter
then after the first 50 miles or so did one more oil change. so far so good.
 
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