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Need to replace my Rectifier/Regulator

JTGS850GL

JTGS850GL

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
No charging on my 82 GS850GL

Just did some preliminary testing of my charging system and believe that the stator is good. Disconnected the three wires and tested each of the three legs. I found 80+ volts AC between any two at ~5k RPMs. About 45V at low idle. Resistance between each leg was .8ohms and resistance to ground from each leg was open.

Output from the regulator is 0v. Further testing shows a shorted diode on the white/blue wire of the R/R to ground. I guess that confirms the source of my charging issues. Diode is toast. I've read some on alternatives to the stock R/R but not a definitive consensus on which is "THE BEST". Cost is important but reliability is the main concern. I would like as close a "plug-n-play" as possible but a kit with all the appropriate connectors would work too. It looks to me like someone has already replaced it once with a newer stock unit only for that one to go bad.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
You want a series R/R- i.e. compufire or shindengen SH775- and charging issues might be a distant memory!
 
I committed to the CompuFire after searching for the SH775.

The issue with off-brand SH775 is that they may not be actual SERIES units. See the discussions here -
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=212182

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=212141

Not knowing if the Polaris/SH775 option would be "genuine series" depending on who it came from, I went with a sure thing and stayed with the CompuFire.

It was only another $50-ish dollars (compufire $155 shipped amazom vs. ~$80 + shipping for SH775). To save a stator, battery and run cooler without wondering what I got I though it worth it.
 
Andrew Vanis said:
I committed to the CompuFire after searching for the SH775.

The issue with off-brand SH775 is that they may not be actual SERIES units. See the discussions here -
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=212182

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=212141

Not knowing if the Polaris/SH775 option would be "genuine series" depending on who it came from, I went with a sure thing and stayed with the CompuFire.

It was only another $50-ish dollars (compufire $155 shipped amazom vs. ~$80 + shipping for SH775). To save a stator, battery and run cooler without wondering what I got I though it worth it.
Click to expand...

There is no issue with the SH775 especially if you buy it direct from the Polaris Dealer. I don't think you will be disappointed in the Compufire, but the SH775 is plenty cheaper if a bit bigger to install and it is a Series R/R. The only issue is in not buying one of the confirmed solutions (specifically Compufire 3 phase or the SH775).
 
Just purchased a sh775 with connectors so I guess I'll be good to go as soon as it arrives.

Next stop... Carb rebuild.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Just purchased a sh775 with connectors so I guess I'll be good to go as soon as it arrives.

Next stop... Carb rebuild.
Click to expand...
Hopefully, you got this from your nearby Polaris dealer-
part #4012941- accept NO substitutes or wild theories
 
Actually it's a SHINDENGEN FH020AA. Let you all know how the install goes. Any hints on what to expect. I know the mounting holes will have to be reworked and I'll bypass the stator loop going to the headlight.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Actually it's a SHINDENGEN FH020AA. Let you all know how the install goes. Any hints on what to expect. ...
Click to expand...
Expect your stator (which appears good now) to become toasty in future. The only series R/R that Shindengen currently makes is the SH775; for some reason, folks are resisting this fact and becoming seduced/mislead by the mosfet FH ones as a better choice. I'd send the FH020 back and let someone else's bike have the BBQ
 
tom203 said:
Expect your stator (which appears good now) to become toasty in future. The only series R/R that Shindengen currently makes is the SH775; for some reason, folks are resisting this fact and becoming seduced/mislead by the mosfet FH ones as a better choice. I'd send the FH020 back and let someone else's bike have the BBQ
Click to expand...

I don't think it is just deceptive marketing, I think it is basically human nature in that once you make a decision you have a vested interest in a that decision and turn off the reasoning. :(
 
Can't send it back so I guess I'm SOL.:mad: Can't afford to buy two so I guess I'll just have to live with it. Way too much confusing information about this topic. Some say one thing while others say differant even on this forum. I just wish there was a sticky post with the definitive answer on this so others don't have to mill through all the rubish only to end up buying the wrong one.:(

I may just put it up for acution on ebay.
 
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JTGS850GL said:
Can't send it back so I guess I'm SOL.:mad: Can't afford to buy two so I guess I'll just have to live with it. Way too much confusing information about this topic. Some say one thing while others say differant even on this forum. I just wish there was a sticky post with the definitive answer on this so others don't have to mill through all the rubish only to end up buying the wrong one.:(

I may just put it up for acution on ebay.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that, but a relatively cheap lesson to check the sources of all information. There is a pretty low entry fee for posting anything on the web. I know I sometimes come off argumentative with some posts, but it is to stop miss information as much as possible as it is too easy to create confusion through posting miss information.

I have seen posts that claim MOSFET R/R's are SERIES and the Compufire R/R's are SHUNT. Virtually the entire compu fire line is SERIES (but only one 3 phase) and the MOSFET R/R's are absolutely shunt.
 
posplayr said:
Sorry to hear that, but a relatively cheap lesson to check the sources of all information.
Click to expand...

Coming from a newbie on this forum I'd say that, without the advantage of living the posts of the past, it turns into a jumble of misinformation. Hours spent trying to identify who is and who is not credible is a much more daunting task than it appears. And believe me, I did spend some time looking into this and still messed up.

Anyone know if the connectors are the same between the sh775 and the FH020AA that I purchased? At least I could use the connectors then.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Coming from a newbie on this forum I'd say that, without the advantage of living the posts of the past, it turns into a jumble of misinformation. Hours spent trying to identify who is and who is not credible is a much more daunting task than it appears. And believe me, I did spend some time looking into this and still messed up.

Anyone know if the connectors are the same between the sh775 and the FH020AA that I purchased? At least I could use the connectors then.
Click to expand...

The connector is the same. You could run for a while with the MOSFET(it depends on how you ride), but if you are using a Electrosport stator with the extra 20% power it will burn pretty fast when using the MOSFET. I saw significant browning in only 250 miles.

The mis information is all over not just here. We do try to keep up with policing here and I have to say it is probably better here. :o
 
Don't get me wrong... This is by far one of the best bike specific forums that I have ever experienced. Just way too much information to absorb when trying to fix something quickly. At least I didn't go out and buy a stock replacement.

I'll just go and install the regulator when it arrives and then swap it for the Polaris 4012941 (SH755) when $$$ permits. I don't ride it screeming so by keeping the RPMs low it shouldn't do much damage. Right now the bike is not rideable because of the charging issue so that needs to be resolved ASAP.

Next after this is a complete carb set rebuild (different topic area). Already ordered all the O-rings for that including the O-rings for the intakes. In order to minimize the down time I'm planning on doing the carbs only after all the parts have arrived and when I have two days in a row free.
 
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JTGS850GL said:
In order to minimize the down time I'm planning on doing the carbs only after all the parts have arrived and when I have two days in a row free.
Click to expand...
Just how many cans of dip did you buy? :-k

If you got the usual one can, it will take you far more than two days of down time.

Read the carb rebuild tutorials, especially the one written by Nessism (Ed Ness). Follow the instructions TO THE LETTER. Note that the instructions on the can of 'dip' were written way back, when the stuff worked a bit better. The instructions say to soak the parts for "15 to 30 minutes". However, depending on how long the bike has not been running (a couple of years is typical), we find that 15 to 30 HOURS is what it takes to do the job.

Yep, that means that if you remove your carbs today (Wednesday), you will swap carbs in the dip on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, then take the last one out on Sunday. If you get them assembled Sunday afternoon, you might get a ride in on Sunday evening, but be sure to sync the carbs, too.

.
 
I appreciate your concern, but now worries. The bike is actually running right now and has been for at least a couple of years. I have a slight vagueness when cruising along at 45-50 mph, and is a bit lean but the carbs are not that gross. The cleaning is simply part of the normal process of getting a good baseline and time to replace all internal O-rings. I'm expecting the problem to be more of a vacuum leak issue then simply gross dirty carbs.

Carb rebuilding is not something I'm new to, so I am aware of the issues. I have a sonic cleaner large enough to hold two gallons of cleaning fluid (2 gallons is what I've purchased) and is used in conjunction with the solvent solution so that expedites the cleaning process. I have a MOTION PRO carb sync tool so that will cover me on syncing up the carbs as well.
 
Ok, the FH020AA r/r is installed and was a perfect fit in the OEM location under the battery and the PO already had longer allen head screws installed. I didn't need to modify the bolt holes either since the bolt hole spacing was perfect. Used the OEM waterproof connectors that came with the r/r. I crimped and soldered the wires to connectors. Used 14 gauge wires on the stator and 12 gauge wires on the ground and +12V. Connected the ground directly to the battery and ran the +12 to the solid red wire used by OEM. Bypassed the loop wire going to the headlight. The three wires from the stator were wired directly to the regulator connector. Started her up and read a steady 14.3V at the battery terminals regardless of load. One item down!!!
 
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