New bike and a strange noise

[Muser3]

manuals

manuals

I can help with manuals as mine just came. I ordered the Haynes #737 and it covers the CHAIN DRIVE FOURS. I had ordered the Clymer manual and it did not cover them. From the Motor Bookstore. About 25 plus shipping

I also got the Suzuki service manual and it is likely a copy of the original, but it is fine. It came from repairmanuals.com, cost 44.95 plus 11.70 shipping. It is part # 99500-39013-03E. Worth the price to me.

The ARE hard to find.
Lee

 

[Dink]

I can help with manuals as mine just came. I ordered the Haynes #737 and it covers the CHAIN DRIVE FOURS. I had ordered the Clymer manual and it did not cover them. From the Motor Bookstore. About 25 plus shipping

I also got the Suzuki service manual and it is likely a copy of the original, but it is fine. It came from repairmanuals.com, cost 44.95 plus 11.70 shipping. It is part # 99500-39013-03E. Worth the price to me.

The ARE hard to find.
Lee

Take that part number to a Suzuki dealer.

Dink

 

[Big T]

ok so i pulled my clutch cover off today

here's a picture for fun!

While you're in there, remove the 6 bolts that hold in the center hub, carefully remove all the plates in order (try to pull them all out at once). Then check that big nut you find. Is it loose? Yeah , I know it has a locking tab washer.

If so, tighten it up to spec, reload the plates and replace the center hub, also tightening to spec.

Been there, done that, the next time it happened I replaced the outer hub

 

[Talon]

Thanks for the responses everybody. I haven't worked on my bike for a while cause i'm waiting for some gaskets and such, and for my next cheque so i can get some more tools, such as a torque wrench and some carb tools. Tools are never a bad purchase, I've learned that from my dad/brother/grandpa over the years.

anyway i saw this on craigslist and was wondering if parts from this bike would work on my bike and vice versa.
http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/mcy/469792632.html
I'm mostly thinking of stealing/switching the pipes on it and maybe some other stuff if i find anything else that needs replacing on my bike.
or i might work on getting that bike running if i can get it registered... not sure how that works with a no title vehicle out here in bc...

 

[Guest]

I don't think that's an 88. Clutch basket is different. Headers and pipes should work. Brakes and wheels should work.

 

[Talon]

ok so i finally got the gaskets i ordered a while ago and dove back into my bike again today. I took the clutch apart and the big nut at the back of it was pretty loose so i tightened it up and then put it back together after deciding that could have been a big contributor to the noise i was getting and everything else looked fine. i then took of the valve cover and put the gasket on there, with not too much trouble because there was no old gasket there to remove/scrape/clean off... then changed the oil filter and put in new oil.

as i was putting it all back together i kinda mixed up the spark plug wires so the ones on the right (while on the bike) might be switched around. the ones on the left should be correct because they're actually labeled 1 and 2. so how do you tell which plug leads are supposed to go where?

also when i put the clutch back together i may have overtightened the outer hub spring bolts a bit too much, or maybe not quite enough. When i started the bike after everything i wanted to test the clutch to see if it was working correctly. anyway when you shift into a gear and have the clutch pulled in it fails to cut off all the power to the wheel so it actually moves. is there an easy/external fix for this? or do i have to drain the oil again and go back inside?


Overall it was good i think. there seems to be less clutch noise while idling in neutral with the clutch out and it shouldn't leak oil from the valve cover anymore i hope and once i get those other issues fixed i can move on to working on the brakes!

any help is greatly appreciated
thanks!

 

[rphillips]

Be sure the cable is adjusted properly, just a slight bit of freeplay with clutch released. Be sure the lever the cable connects to, on the clutch cover, is at appx. 5 o'clock position, with clutch released. It's normal for this type of clutch to have a little drag, especially when cold & hasn't been used for a while. Put bike on center stand, in neutral, fire it up, & let it run for a min. or 2. Pull clutch in, & shift into 1st. Bike will probably jerk & rear wheel will start turning. Rev the bike a little, while applying the rear brake. rear wheel should stop, without stalling the eng. After warmed up good & some riding, you should be able to put bike on center stand & easily hold the rear wheel with just your toe against the tire. Be very careful with those little bolts, you can break them before you know it. An in. lb. torque wrench will take the guess work out of the bolt thing.

 

[Suzuki mad]

Bit late on this one sorry.

There are two small needle roller bearings that the clutch basket runs on. They fail also. Check that the basket has not been hitting the inside of the crankcase at the front where it meets the crankshaft area.

As its apart change the 6 springs that hold the clutch plates in.

Once its back together get the bikes carbs balance.

Exhausts, cut the old mufflers off where the down pipes fit to the collector (The middle two are already apart from the outers) and get some MIVV mufflers. They look like the originals and fit like originals also.

Side panels are still avaliable via Suzuki (change the little rubber gromets that they fit into.)

Seats always tear at the front. If you can find a replacement great but a good replacment seat cover will work fine. The base is plastic so no problems there.

Check your valve clearance's as the lock nuts on the adjusters have a tendancy to loosen with time.

Suzuki workshop manual cost me $68 from Bells Suzuki Lexington in 2005.

Hope that helps. Be great full one like that would cost you about ?500 UK pounds to buy.

Suzuki mad.

 

[Talon]

yeah i used a torque wrench while putting the bolts back on and tighened them to about 8.5 ft lbs according to the wrench i was using, but its just one of those cheap ones with the needle so how accurate it is i'm not sure. well i guess i'll start it up and see if it stalls while having it in 1st while having the clutch in and rear brake applied.
also if anything the clutch cable is a bit tight.

 

[Talon]

well the clutch seems fine. the bike runs about as good as it did before i think, theres no noise coming from the clutch now. still wondering about the spark plug cables a little, i tried switching them around and such and it wouldn't really run/fire with them on other plugs so i assume they're fine.

heh now i get to start reading up on brakes and how they work and such! and i also get to switch the pipes on this bike. the pipes on that 750 i just bought are in near perfect condition.

thanks for the help everybody!

 

[salty_monk]

It will drag if the clutch cable is too loose... not too tight. Check the play at the lever. You should get a 1.5mm gap before it starts to pull the clutch.

If you just changed the oil, what did you put in there? 20w50 always drags a bit especially when cold. Even 10w40 will drag a little bit.

Dan

 

[PhantomBGD]

Different strokes for different folks. I guess if I had that guy's bike, & it was all I had to get around on, I would ride it. but only till I could afford to get something I wouldn't be embarrased to be seen on. Like they say, to each his own. Good luck

Haha, that guy (on the bike) doesnt look like he embarasses easily.

 

[Talon]

haha, i don't embarrass easily either, I have the most furious mullet and handlebar moustash ever right now and love it...

anyway i'm still keeping this thread alive with my progress on this bike. So i bought that other 750 for like $250 which will be alot of work if i want to get it running but could be a fun project, anyway it came with some stock pipes which on further inspection were actually rusted out and they're on that bike still, and it also came with a 4 into 1 exhaust that he claimed fit that bike.

so i took off the stock pipes from my 1100 and went to go grab another set of pipes from the 750 which is at my buddies house a couple of blocks away, which is when i found that the pretty and shiny stock pipes on that bike are rusted through. so i grabbed the 4 into 1 pipe that was there and brought it home and attempted to put it on my bike...

so i wanted to steal the stock pipes because i knew the 4 into 1s had some work to be done to them, they need a tab welded back onto the back of them to mount to the bike and such.

anyway i got around to trying to mount them and this is what i ended up with. I'm holding the rear of the pipe up with some cable currently, which i'm not super concerned about, but the headers have some crappy mounting system that doesn't really work and the pipes don't make a seal with the exhaust ports of the engine.

so should i look for a 4 into 1 header that would fit well and cut/weld the can from the pipe i currently have onto it?
or should i patch up then wrap the stock pipes i took off of my bike in the first place?


man i really need to hit the engine with some engine degreaser...

 

[Steve]

... as i was putting it all back together i kinda mixed up the spark plug wires so the ones on the right (while on the bike) might be switched around. the ones on the left should be correct because they're actually labeled 1 and 2. so how do you tell which plug leads are supposed to go where?

It appears that nobody has answered this question for you, so I will. 8-[

It is good that you have at least one plug wire that is labeled. If you look up under the gas tank, you will see that there are two coils, each of them has two spark plug wires coming out of it. Follow the wire from plug #1 to its coil. The other wire from that coil should go to #4. The other coil should be connected to #2 & #3. Some time when you have the tank off, label the coils so you do not mix them up in the future.


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