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New GS700E owner !

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gargoyle081
  • Start date Start date
Also I have a question....I just noticed I have 2 exhaust bolts that are snapped off. Thats gonna be a great time to drill and tap at a later date...Well would the exhaust leaks cause any problems with me trying to get the motor running right? Should I make these two repairs first?
 
Fellow owner of GS700ES (Same Bike)

Fellow owner of GS700ES (Same Bike)

I've read all the posts and agree on lots of various points. I also aquired a bike that was sitting for ?? years outside in New England weather with the carbs OFF! I completly went through the carbs, they were missing rubber pilot jet plugs/1 wrong needle jet and slide/spring etc.. I spent 40-50 bucks just trying to get parts. The y-5 needle jet is not made any longer! Any way I found a complete set on E-bay and won the bid for a total of $53.00 with shipping! What a deal! I was able to get it running with the other set but not very well. The set I got off of E-bay were very clean, I decided to just slap them on and see what they would do? It ran pretty decent, but would stumble when the throttle was wrapped up.. (They had all stock jetting!) I have a 4 into 1 pipe and UNI pods (worn out) and heard that I needed to go up 2 sizes from 122.5 (stock for BS32SS) to 130.0's and what a complete difference NO stummble, I actually took it out on the road for the first time today (30 deg brrr). It runs pretty good but I still need to go up one size on the pilot jet from (stock 37.5 without holes) to a 40.0 without holes and that should do it. (DID NOT SOAK) but used 1-2 cans and many hours of cleaning/wire wheeling and various other methonds of cleaning. I bought the O-ring kit and new Intake O-rings (must do) and now need to transfer all of those NEW items over to the carbs I just got.

P.S. look on my previous post on a easy way to put the carbs back on (2x4 piece of wood)..
 
Leaks on the exhaust side could make things interesting. It's definitely a priority to fix, but I'm not sure it's what's causing your current issue of revving to 4k on its own.

Have you checked that the choke (enrichener) isn't stuck on and make sure the idle screw in the rear between #2 and #3 is adjusted properly? Is your throttle cable too tight? Is the vacuum from #2 carb to petcock either plugged or hooked up with no leaks? Are the sync ports in the intake runners sealed well? Are any of the intake rubbers folded over (not seated right) or not clamped?

And, just to be thorough, you do know it's normal for the bike to hold a high RPM while the choke is on during warmup?
 
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the revving up to 4k could mean a cable is stuck , either the choke or throttle. another thing is the choke slides could be stuck. another thing that could be wrong is your idle screw is in too far. does the engine speed stay steady or does it fluctuate?

you might want to balance your carbs too.
 
Ok..I meticulously went over all the rubber boots...Im totally convinced they are sealed up tight now. My throttle cable appears to have some slack in it down by the carbs, and my choke cable and/or slide are not stuck.

After I sealed up the boots properly that made a huge difference in the idle and it stayed around 1000 Rmps.I have the air screws backed out 1 1/2 turns. I noticed that the #1 and #2 header pipes get WAY too hot to touch (learned that the only way someone could) and I know that I have a bolt snapped off and exhaust leak in each of the #3 and #4 header pipes...so Im sure thats why they are much cooler to the touch

Also, my air filter smells like gas......its not saturated, and there is no liquid in the airbox...but it definitely smells like fuel.....brand new K&N with gas in it...


I dont understand why, but when the bike was idling I could not operate the throttle AT ALL......it either bogged it down or stalled completely....so frusterating to not be able to figure this out and move on to putting new rubber and brake pads on this thing
 
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i had the same problems, do you let the bike warm up before you get on the throttle. especially with this crazy weather we've been getting, you need to let it warm up. might be running too lean. the hot pipes would also be explained by a lean condition. also, head over to z1 and get some exhaust gaskets so you have them ready when you change those bolts.
 
Well not that I would ever complain about the bike being loud, but Im in a pretty controlled environment(in a garage with the bike backed up to the open door) Things are just oo inconsistent for me to wrap my brain around being new to bike repair.....and carbs. Today I started it again and it ran at about a grand for 5 mins or so and after I shut her down it wouldnt start again....hence my frusteration. With so many factors,inconsistant starts, and limited knowledge Im not sure what to do or where to start a process of illimination....I REALLY dont want to take the bike to a mechanic....
 
If you're smelling fuel in the air filter area you likely have a float stuck and it's overflowing a bit.

If two pipes are hot and two are cold it's almost certainly either out of sync or the idle mixture screws are too lean on #1 and #2 (lean == hot). My guess would be sync, since you said all the idle mixture screws are equal. Sync problems are magnified the smaller the throttle opening, so at idle a bad sync can result in a cold cylinder(s) easily.

Of course that would be my answer barring exhaust leaks. If you have exhaust leaks (broken bolts) on #3 and #4, all bets are off.
 
Well first off thank you guys for not giving up on me....T3rmin do you think I should focus some time on fixing the exhaust leaks before working with the carbs again? Or should I try to sync the carbs? I was thinking the exhaust leaks may be letting the motor scavenge cold air....is that possible?
 
Hmm

The cylinders that have cool exhaust aren't on the same coil, so that doesn't seem to be the issue. If it was both centers or both ends that were cool, it would be a possibility.


The exhaust leaks could certainly result in tuning issues. I'd fix them before doing much else.

As far as carb syncs go, I would do a bench sync for now - using a piece of safety wire, make sure they all close at the same time. That should be enough for it to run pretty well.
 
I'll work on getting these two snapped off bolts out today since Im done work for the day.....I may be able to get the new exhaust gaskets from the local suzuki dealer. They have been able to get me the parts Ive needed so far in just a day or two.I paid attention when I had the carbs off and they have got to already be REALLY close to sync'd up if they are off....you cannot tell by eye thats for sure. I would twist the adjustment until they looked completely closed and then compare them to one another and they seem to all be closed at the same time.Obviously not a dead on way to tune but like to said it should be close enough for a starting point. I will let you guy know how it goes....
 
At idle, sync can be off enough to completely choke a cylinder without any indication to the naked eye. Bench sync is only useful to get it started so you can do a vacuum sync. Seriously, the sync adjustment is that sensitive.

But yeah, I'd fix the exhaust first. Why worry about unknown problems when you have one that's known?
 
Also, & no one has mentioned this, the carb sync IS affected by the valve adjustment. Sync the carbs BEFORE you do anything else & let us know how it runs after that. The carbs being out of sync can, & will, make it rev weirdly. Ray.
 
I sure like gettin on here and finding more replies.....it means fixin' to learn something. Thanks guys. I gotta get into a better habit of searching the site for a long time before I do ANYTHING. I was already a part of the site group "help me with my carbs" (a LARGE group indeed)...and then the exhaust bolt horror stories...which Im now dealing with too. Before anyone jumps me I DID NOT try with an easy out...but I did snap more bolts. I have been spraying the bolts with PB blaster for the last 3 nights but I guess to no effect. Im going to drill them out so what advice regarding DEPTH do you guys have?? They sheared off with nothing to grab with vise grips etc....Im gonna drill a small hole first of course and then step up a few to get it done. Initially I will try to save the threads, but if I am not precise enough and have to completely drill out and re-tap I will.I went to suzuki and picked up new (all 4) exhaust gaskets and after this headache I will follow those who have gone before me and switch to an allen key bolt.....
 
Gosh, what a nightmare. I hate stuck bolts. If you got any of them out at all you could use that for a depth guide.
 
Errr...well I WISH I had one bolt to show for my efforts....Im hoping not to create any further problems workin the drill tonight or tomorrow morning. For added measure there will be no alcohol involved in the procedure as it will probably effect my performance........and proper pronunciation of certain cuss words, that I may need at my disposal at any given moment
 
Sounds counter-intuitive, but try tightening them slightly before loosening them. Try heat. You're already trying penetrating oil (use PB-Blaster brand). I feel like sharp hits on the wrench, rather than slow steady pressure works better.

For the ones broken off flush it'll probably be a drill & tap.
 
as for the depth thing, you can stick a piece of welding wire are coat hanger in the other exhaust holes and see how far they go in. if you have a drilll with a depth gauge, use it. if you dont, go in little by little.

also, sync your carbs. i need to sync mine and i think that will fix a cylinder not firing because the valve is closed too much.(i hope) i bench synced it but i dont trust myself.
 
Lots of great advice on this thread! On the exhaust bolts, use the largest ez-out you are comfortable drilling a hole for. A small one WILL snap, then you'll have several hours work with the Dremel tool grinding it out (don't ask me how I know:(). Get some good socket head bolts and some anti-seize and replace them all. Strongly recommend checking the valve clearance before you make any carb adjustments. The K&N filter has worked fine for me for many years (but I have stock jetting), just don't over oil it!! Good luck, This bike IS worth the trouble!\\:D/
 
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