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new here and need some advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter william
  • Start date Start date
Those are your pilot jets. They're primarily responsible for fuel delivery at idle. Fortunately they aren't fed by any hidden passages. They're small and easily broken by using too loose a screwdriver, and not being patient (using penetrating oils and heat) if they fight. If the jets themselves are in OK shape you can probably leave them in, they should get clean in the soak and you can verify with light through the throttle body; and use a wire on a matchstick or similar to scrub around and make sure they're open. Your bike won't idle correctly if they're not clean, and the passage through the pilot jet is very small.

Mine came out OK. Others here probably have some tricks to remove them if they're broken (like left-handed drill bits). You might try a forum search for "broken pilot jets". Of course if you get them out, you'll have to replace them with good ones - good meaning OEM. The ones in the rebuild kits are not usually machined nearly as well as the OEM stuff.
 
OK i thank ill try to see if it will run after the cleaning ,, not to hard to get back too them if it wont run right. i am being cheap i am a poor college student :( and just want to get this thing running,,, and it i have to replace them i might as well jet it and get a good set of pods right?? lol may be a 4 into 1 but they cost more than i paid for the bike...

thanks for all the help and advice guys this is a very helpful site
 
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william said:
OK i thank ill try to see if it will run after the cleaning ,, not to hard to get back too them if it wont run right. i am being cheap i am a poor college student :( and just want to get this thing running,,, and it i have to replace them i might as well jet it and get a good set of pods right?? lol may be a 4 into 1 but they cost more than i paid for the bike...

thanks for all the help and advice guys this is a very helpful site
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Since you are contemplating future carb changes, just leave the pilot jets in for now and see what happens; pick up can of Gumout spray with tube, and blast everywhichway in pilot cavity, including down holes in carb throat. Wear safety goggles as Gumout stuff is wicked- I'm amazed the EPA still allows it, they must use it themselves!
 
don't want to seem dumb here but i just got my o'rings that i ordered and i didn't know were the 4 tinny ones went so i looked on the cleaning guide agen and their for the air screw i think but i didn't take them out i guess i over looked that part of the cleaning guide and now i am not sure how to get them out, here's a pic of that i'm talking about ...
209_0579.jpg



I thank this is were the air screw is supposed to be??? but have no idea how to get them out ...
 
I agree with Tom, if you just need to get it running fast, spray each hole vigorously with carb spray. It's the redneck way to do it, but it usually works, provided the carbs aren't too bad or corroded.
 
william said:
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/mc_maint/GS_CV_Carb_Cleaning_Series.pdf

this is were i was looking .... thank you for your help
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After getting those EPA blocking plugs out, you should really reclean ( as in soak ) carbs to clean out the passages that were covered, cuz this is a critical area- a blockage here will give erratic idle/low speed effects. The fact that the plugs are still in makes it likely that nobody has had a serious go at cleaning the carbs despite the mangled pilot jet. It's worthwhile to review Nessism's guide-it's long because it's detailed!
 
Yes those round plugs in your last picture need to be removed. There is a mixture adjustment screw in there that also needs to be removed as there's where the tiny orings go. Be mindful not to lose the little washer and spring that are also in each one.

In regards to pod filters and a 4-1 pipe. These modifications will require jetting changes, namely a DynoJet kit (bout $120 on top of what you pay for pods and a pipe) and the bike will absolutely run like hell if you don't do these jetting changes. My advice to you would be to get it running right wih the stock components before attempting a modification of any sort so you know what it's supposed to run like.
 
thanks guys plugs have been removed and air screw removed cleaned and new o-rings put on them when i took them out i counted the turns and they were 1 1/2 turns from seated ,,, the guide says 2 1/2 turns out to start with should i go back to 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 turns out ?? i set them at 2 1/2 because that's what the guide said but just thought i would ask.
 
william said:
thanks guys plugs have been removed and air screw removed cleaned and new o-rings put on them when i took them out i counted the turns and they were 1 1/2 turns from seated ,,, the guide says 2 1/2 turns out to start with should i go back to 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 turns out ?? i set them at 2 1/2 because that's what the guide said but just thought i would ask.
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These carbs were set up notoriously lean from the factory (or I suppose the assembly warehouse stateside) to comply with EPA regs of the day. As such 2.5 turns out will help richen up the pilot circuit and make for better response and quicker warm up times. It's also a good starting point to get the bike going and once warmed up, you'll use the idle speed knob to drop the idle to around 800rpm and then slowly adjust the screws one at a time, and listen for the idle to rise. When the idle rises to a point and opening the screw makes no change, back the screw back in an 1/8 turn and leave it. Reset the idle speed to 800rpm and move to the next carb and so on. When you do this, you need to adjust them a 1/4 turn at a time and wait a couple seconds before making another adjustment to allow the motor to catch up. This is called setting the mix screws with the "highest idle" method.
 
so after getting my carbs done i found out that i had the wrong o-rings for the intake i decided to do some improvements on the front end wile i weight fro the other o-rings to come in.... i repainted the black,, and painted the back of the head light black that was pretty pitted up,,, and also removed the paint around the gages for a brushed look what do you all think??

209_0576.jpg
 
TheCafeKid said:
These carbs were set up notoriously lean from the factory (or I suppose the assembly warehouse stateside) to comply with EPA regs of the day. As such 2.5 turns out will help richen up the pilot circuit and make for better response and quicker warm up times. It's also a good starting point to get the bike going and once warmed up, you'll use the idle speed knob to drop the idle to around 800rpm and then slowly adjust the screws one at a time, and listen for the idle to rise. When the idle rises to a point and opening the screw makes no change, back the screw back in an 1/8 turn and leave it. Reset the idle speed to 800rpm and move to the next carb and so on. When you do this, you need to adjust them a 1/4 turn at a time and wait a couple seconds before making another adjustment to allow the motor to catch up. This is called setting the mix screws with the "highest idle" method.
Click to expand...

Hey CafeKid -

When you say 2.5 turns out, are you talking about the Pilot Air Screw or the Pilot Fuel Screw? Also - when you say it will run like hell without a Dynojet kit, if I'm only doing pods (and not K&N pods, just cheapo pods). Do you think I can get away with just backing out the Jet Needle pretty far? I guess even if I can adjust the Needle jet that only affects up to 3/4 throttle, and I would need to do something about the main jets.

Thanks in advance...
 
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