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New in New Jersey - 1981 GS750E

  • Thread starter Thread starter 180gramvinyl
  • Start date Start date
$1500 for what kind of fork work?? Just new seals? Sure it wasn't $150
 
Ha, I wish. That's pretty much a complete rebuild of the forks with new parts. I was told the current tubes are too pitted to do anything too them. I'll take a pic - maybe I don't know pitting but they looked OK to me. Serves me right for going to a dealer.

By looking at the estimate list, they pretty much wanted to rebuild the bike from scratch with OEM parts. They told me setting the points and timing on a CB350 would be $350 as well.
 
Now that sounds to me like a real rip off. Took me a few hours to install progressive springs in my forks,and change the oil. My seals were fine but there would have been a bit more work in that as well. And $350 for setting the points and timing? Everything you need to know can be found on this site or Basscliff's site. I find that doing it myself has given me an incredible sense of accomplishment. Best of luck!
 
Ha, I wish. That's pretty much a complete rebuild of the forks with new parts. I was told the current tubes are too pitted to do anything too them. I'll take a pic - maybe I don't know pitting but they looked OK to me. Serves me right for going to a dealer.

By looking at the estimate list, they pretty much wanted to rebuild the bike from scratch with OEM parts. They told me setting the points and timing on a CB350 would be $350 as well.
umm...find another shop, or consider doing all of the work yourself. That shop has zero interest in making you happy. $350 for setting points and timing a 350? What is that, an hour's worth of work normally? Even if it took them two hours they are doubly charging you.
 
OK - been away for a while but a bit of an update. Brought the bike to a shop with the hopes of a new front tire and fork seals. Left with the tire and a few cables after quoting $1500 for fork work. (In addition to $1500 for other miscellaneous). So I still need to think about these forks but will probably figure out a way to attack them myself.

Pulled the carbs to clean and sync myself, avoiding the $600+ I was quoted for those. Definitely a learning experience and a bit more complicated than the Keihin 722a's on my CB350 but totally managable - just way more parts to keep track off. Turns out a few of the pilot jets had stripped slots. Was able to remove them with the small torx trick and some WD-40 - swapped all for with new ones.

GSXR7ED - thanks for the jetting suggestion. The bike had 120s from the PO but it really seemed like it was minimal power in the low rev range. I swapped in a set of 117.5's and man, this thing is total beast mode now. It really rips through the full rev range. Seems like a completely different bike. (Earlier in the day I was ready to kick it to the curb - poor idle mix setting and not priming the carbs made me think I'd killed it, ha).

Went for the oil change last night two - Rotella 15w40 and a FRAM filter. After reading today, I see that those have mixed reviews but I will probably do another change soon to let some of the remnants of prior evils circulate first.

Cool! Glad it worked out for you. Those 117.5s worked great at the 6K feet elevation in Alamogordo, NM. It's what Rob from Z1 sent me and what MrBill helped me install on my bike.

Sadly, I took my bike home to Delaware but I did not bring her to Panama City, FL. She has a valve cover oil leak as well as leaking fork oil on the left side. If it gets on the new front brake pads I installed, I'll have to replace them too. For now...she is on center stand/not leaking and in my garage.



Well, keep up with the updates!


Ed
 
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Guys, I was in a bit of a dark place. Got pretty frustrated and listed this on craigstlist a few months ago - no takers, ha. Had a bit of a change of heart and figured I might as well dive in and make a learning experience out of this. Things that have transpired in the past few months:

1. clean garage so I have a small space to work
2. Setup 1000W worklight so I can finally see
3. installed center stand + purchased a tiny jack. first time either wheel has left the ground in my possession. probably won't be able to leave it on for riding as it hits the muffler...low priority right now

4. FINALLY REMOVED THAT GODAWFUL FAIRING. That was a make it or break it point for me. I had considered before but the wire patching going on in there made me a bit apprehensive. Ended up just taking out all the wiring from the fairing and stuffing it under the stock headlight bucket. I can probably chop off a foot of wire but that will be for another day. I'll have to post some pics but I briefly had the new (to me) square bucket installed. Previous owner did a patchy silver job so i'm going to strip and just do rattlecan black. Any suggestions for getting the paint off plastic? Wire wheel or something?

5. FORKS! Time has finally come. Ordered some seals and a set of Sonic Springs. Forks are off and partly disassembled. Fork bolts are super stuck. I rounded one of the bottom bolts so that will be a problem. I guess just drill it out and hope for the best? Maybe jam a torx in there first like a stuck carb jet? I hear air wrench is the way to go. I'm contemplating picking up this cheap guy from HF and hoping it works? I have the smallest compressor (3gal) which I know is nowhere close to enough for an air wrench but I'm wondering if it would have enough power for a good single blast? I don't need the extended use at this time. Thoughts?

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/impact-wrenches/3-8-eighth-inch-impact-wrench-93296.html

If I can get them apart, I'll probably replace the bushings (and I believe there are a few other pieces Mr. Bill typically suggests removing) - if not, I'll make due with the new seals/springs for the moment. The leg with the rounded bolt moves super smooth. The other seems a bit "grainy" - hoping a bit more cleaning the internals will ease that up. I do have a slight bit of rust/pits on the tubes - hoping a can clean that up a bit rather than needing new tubes yet. Grainy one actually was NOT leaking.
 
Also got some Gaitors for the forks!

To do next:

6. Front Wheel bearings - might as well since the wheel is off, right? Having trouble getting this bearing out though - bashed one pretty good. Might try to borrow a blind hole puller from Autozone or something. Need to get some of the 6302RS bearings for replacement.

7. Front brakes - def need a good cleaning/bleeding. Haven't taken them apart yet so we'll see how bad it is.

Rear will be next after the current in-process list. Bearings + brakes to start...

I'm getting some rear wheel wobble - reading up on things, it seems like swingarm bearings/bushings/etc might be to blame? Seems a bit more complicated so I might consult with a shop once I get to that point.
 
Good on you for sticking with it. Wiring can be frustrating, so be patient. One wire at a time if need be. Ive found out the hard way too many times.

DO NOT wire wheel the plastic! Ive read a few posts pertaining to paint removal from plastic, but dont recall the products mentioned. If the existing paint is solid (not flaking) you may just be able to wet sand it and paint over it, but im far from a paint expert.

Good luck.
 
DO NOT wire wheel the plastic! Ive read a few posts pertaining to paint removal from plastic, but dont recall the products mentioned. If the existing paint is solid (not flaking) you may just be able to wet sand it and paint over it, but im far from a paint expert.

Good luck.

Ha, good to know on the paint. It actually looks like the PO tried something similar as it was real rough and ugly. I got one of these but hadn't tried it yet
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-4...ount-Quick-Strip-Disc-PNW040100D01G/202830913

Too cold to paint right now anyway - real brisk tonight. I might just do it down and dirty for the moment - might swap to a round headlight once the wiring gets cleaned up. All that extra fairing cable would never fit in the round bucket.
 
So I have one of these guys 1/3hp 3gal compressors - super tiny. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...-psi-oilless-hotdog-air-compressor-69269.html

Probably making a Harbor Freight trip tomorrow. Do you think it would have enough power to run one of these two 3/8 impact wrench or butterfly version?

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/impact-wrenches/3-8-eighth-inch-impact-wrench-93296.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...s-torque-compact-air-impact-wrench-93100.html

Any idea which is better? This would be to break the fork bolt free. No vice so it's tough to get leverage. I get that the compressor is super underpowered but if I could get one good blast out of it to free the bolt, I think i'd be in business. Wouldn't mind if i only get one hit and then need to let the whole tank refill - seems like it would be handy every now and then.
 
Ended up getting them freed up with a little PB Blaster + torch + breaker bar. EZ-out on the rounded one. Def need to replace the bolts and crush washers as a precaution for next time. got a real set of hex sockets too - the ball-end type i had almost ruined me.

Borrowed the blind hole puller from autozone to pull the front wheel bearings - curious to see how this is going to turn out.
 
Nice. You're a hearty soul if you're working in an unheated garage....
My biggest problem with winter maintenence is...... winter
 
Fixing Stuff

Fixing Stuff

Guys, I was in a bit of a dark place. Got pretty frustrated and listed this on craigstlist a few months ago - no takers, ha. Had a bit of a change of heart and figured I might as well dive in and make a learning experience out of this. Things that have transpired in the past few months:

Wait, what? Glad you had a change of heart.

1. clean garage so I have a small space to work
2. Setup 1000W worklight so I can finally see
3. installed center stand + purchased a tiny jack. first time either wheel has left the ground in my possession. probably won't be able to leave it on for riding as it hits the muffler...low priority right now

Hmmm...maybe you need this attachment:




4. FINALLY REMOVED THAT GODAWFUL FAIRING. That was a make it or break it point for me. I had considered before but the wire patching going on in there made me a bit apprehensive. Ended up just taking out all the wiring from the fairing and stuffing it under the stock headlight bucket. I can probably chop off a foot of wire but that will be for another day. I'll have to post some pics but I briefly had the new (to me) square bucket installed. Previous owner did a patchy silver job so i'm going to strip and just do rattlecan black. Any suggestions for getting the paint off plastic? Wire wheel or something?
Yes, please post pics...and you chopping up wires doesn't sound good.

5. FORKS! Time has finally come. Ordered some seals and a set of Sonic Springs. Forks are off and partly disassembled. Fork bolts are super stuck. I rounded one of the bottom bolts so that will be a problem. I guess just drill it out and hope for the best? Maybe jam a torx in there first like a stuck carb jet? I hear air wrench is the way to go. I'm contemplating picking up this cheap guy from HF and hoping it works? I have the smallest compressor (3gal) which I know is nowhere close to enough for an air wrench but I'm wondering if it would have enough power for a good single blast? I don't need the extended use at this time. Thoughts?

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/impact-wrenches/3-8-eighth-inch-impact-wrench-93296.html

If I can get them apart, I'll probably replace the bushings (and I believe there are a few other pieces Mr. Bill typically suggests removing) - if not, I'll make due with the new seals/springs for the moment. The leg with the rounded bolt moves super smooth. The other seems a bit "grainy" - hoping a bit more cleaning the internals will ease that up. I do have a slight bit of rust/pits on the tubes - hoping a can clean that up a bit rather than needing new tubes yet. Grainy one actually was NOT leaking.

Please take pics. I'm trying to picture these fork bolts you're using an "easy out" to remove and hoping for the best. (cringe)


Ed
 
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Garage isn't too too bad - usually around 40 degrees but that halogen worklight actually puts out an admirable amount of hear for that space.

Ed - that centerstand bracket is sharp. Might have to whip up something similar. So just a piece of metal just mounted it to passenger peg bolt area? Not bad!

Finally read through the posting pics section on the BikeCliff website - probably should have done that a bit sooner - oops.

So here she is from the fall - still with fairing:

Generally looks decent but the exhaust is ugly - quite a bit of rust on the headers.




And it was this guy that gave me trouble. My fault for using a ball end bit on it first rather than the standard hex since I didn't have one long enough to reach.
 
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Thanks man. The one seemingly positive thing the PO did was get it repainted. Almost that coke bottle green color which I love. One bubble near the fill cap o. His watch and I put a few small scratches on the top when it was a bit too precariously placed during a carb synch.
 
Sonic Springs arrived last night - need to wait for the new bottom fork bolts to arrive before I can reassemble. Man, I was surprised at how much shorter than stock they are - glad there was a disclaimer in the instructions because I was wondering if I had the right ones for a few minutes, ha.
 
Started to reassemble the forks the other night - surprised to see the various in design across the GS line. I thought that I could put #5 on the below fiche in first and then put the inner fork tube in -WRONG. Had to destroy to get it back out. Another week of waiting to get a replacement.

http://www.burgersmotorcycles.com/f...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2136

Might need to ask for some reassembly advice on reassembly as 6 & 8 are confusing me. I'll take some pics soon if I can't figure it out.

General fork question though. The left side slides smoothly throughout the entire travel area when partially assembled - #5 and anything after not installed yet. The right side seems to be a bit sluggish on the final inch or two of expansion. Would this be the bushing or possibly a bent tube? I'd rather not take apart again as I put it together with loctite - will this be noticeable after I put the springs in/ride?
 
OK just want to make sure that I reinstall these things correct since I was an idiot and didn't pay enough attention when taking them apart. Hopefully you guys can offer some assistance as mine don't look quite like the tutorial example.

So from this fiche - I'm trying to determine what is what:

After installing the bushing (#5), which of the two rings in the photo below comes next? The fiche makes it look like #6 has a lip to it so is it that piece?

is this the right Order?
1. Bushing
2. 5 w/ lip up - right side in below pic
3. Fork Seal
4. "oil seal washer" on top of that - left side in below pic
5. retaining clip

 
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