Great opinion homie! Unfortunately, after spending hours and hours on this site, im confused at to what typer of roads u might be riding on.... If this were the case than boy i guess that little plastic inner fender would be chewed up huh?
Not everyone has a plastic inner fender located close enough to the rear tire that big bumps would cause major rub...
Since you're confused, what I meant was a whole bunch of Appalachian SE Ohio roads like this:
I'm not sure what part you're confused about...
I go out on 10 hour 400 mile rides on almost all nonstop tighter twisty winding roads, with only the first and last 35-45 minutes to/from home being on roads that are not ultra-twisty....
I'm always trying to get more people to join.
it's not a "art-project-hipster-cafe whatever the h*** u called it.... it was merely necessity as a cafe racer seat was only about $30 compared to the stock seat and hardware that was lost by the previous owner.
A $30 new cafe clone seat? I don't think you'll be enjoying long rides on that thing... not even our short 3.5 - 5.5 hour twisties adventures...
So you hacked your frame and welded on it and bought a fancy cafe hoop to weld on, just because you didn't feel like looking for a $60 well used seat? & you were not doing it to look like every other hipster cafe racer hackjob?
even if the wheel hits the seat........... itll be for a split second then the springs will force the rear end back to road as intended..... Ever watch dirtbikes???? they do similar stuff!!!
BIG DIFFERENCE BUD! Dirt bikes are designed to come close but not rub as well... unless someone was modding things and miscalculated. There is a thing called a bumpstop on shocks... dirtbikes have them, too. Unless you are referring to all the mud that gets scraped off the inside of the fenders when the suspension bottoms out.
You actually think factory engineers and their lawyers would let these things be released to the general public if the tire would bottom out on the bodywork in stock form? You've got to be kidding.
You are talking to a dirtbiker, by the way...
And if a dirtbike had enough frame flex or suspension wear to hit the tire to the plastic fender, its a plastic fender with no significant structural tubing between the frame rails, and the bike is on dirt, where it's commonplace to utilize the loose and slippery conditions to lock up the rear wheel on purpose and slide... dirt provides mowhere near the traction that street tires on pavement do...
You dont see Supermoto racers locking it up in turns on the regular on pavement... only the most skilled stunt riders who are doing it predictably and controlled... where as your scenario would be an "OH $#!+!!!!" moment...
even if the wheel hits the seat........... itll be for a split second then the springs will force the rear end back to road as intended.....
i understand ur point of view here but just cos it isnt OEM, STOCK, OR up to ur "specific vintage" standard doesnt make it wrong or usafe. Appreciate ur opinion!!!!
This is where you are terribly confused, or rather gravely mistaken...
Give it just the right (or rather, horribly wrong) scenario, and you'll be ejected off of the bike in short order when you fail to gain control of the rear end abruptly sliding around and going into a high speed weave after being induced by a half second rear wheel lockup...
DUDE... YOU REALLY NEED TO RE-THINK YOUR ENGINEERING BRAINFART HERE, & SWALLOW YOUR PRIDE...
FIX THAT HORRENDOUSLY DANGEROUS "COSMETIC" BLUNDER...
Unless you plan to put on some KZ or BMW length shocks there to jack the rear sky high. Then you will be welding an extension on your kickstand, and adding a motocross chain guide and chain tensioner due to the ultra steep swingarm angle of beyond 13 degrees.
To clarify - I'm not trying to run you off here or start a fight, but rather trying to keep your family from visiting you in an early grave, or the family of whoever owns the bike next from having the same unfortunate experience.
This is a dangerous situation you have garage-engineered into your 68hp 530lb 4 cylinder bike...