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New member with some drivetrain questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter TitanNeil
  • Start date Start date
Back at it...

Back at it...

O.k, I took the advice of some knowledgeable members and figured that the threaded end of the bevel gear had sheared off, thus giving no drive. I have just pulled the swingarm off, but left the driveshaft in place. Should this have happened if the threaded end had sheared off? The driveshaft WILL NOT come off the back of the transmission unless I unbolt it from the bevel gear assembly. I think it should just fall off now, right? Or (God, no...) something has sheared in the transmission...
 
Hi,

Does the driveshaft spin freely if the transmission is in gear? If so, there's a slim chance that there's a problem with #1 in this picture:

44.gif


Let's hope not. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi BassCliff,

Unfortunately the clutch is out of the bike, and the springs are missing! When I grab the driveshaft and spin it, nothing in the engine seems to spin (I look in the cavity where the clutch basket was and the shaft there doesn't move). I can put the shift lever back on tomorrow and try to get it into gear.
 
Sorry to hear that the secondary pinion was not the problem. It would have been an easier fix than going inside the engine.
Fit the gear shift lever and select a gear. Rotate the drive shaft and then see if the clutch shaft turns. If not select another gear and try again. If still no rotation at the clutch shaft, you could have a problem with damaged secondary bevels.
 
Yup, problem is inside the cases. I put on the shift lever, shifted into a few gears but spinning the driveshaft produces no result, the clutch shaft doesn't move. It feels as if the driveshaft isn't connected just inside the case.
Is this a feasible fix without splitting the cases? I attempted to pull out the secondary gear from the side of the engine (after loosening a few crankcase bolts), but i'm reluctant to pry too much there. Ideas?
 
You need to pull the secondary gear set out. It can be done in the frame. Just take the bolts out/ they have thread sealer. It will be very stubborn & will take some effort so eat your Wheaties! After you take the bolts out, Use some screwdrivers/ small pry bar, claw hammer what ever you have as a lever between the case & the gear assembly BE CAREFULLY NOT TO DAMAGE THE CASE Move tools from side to side and work it out of the case. Prying on opposite sides at the same time
I would take the side part off first- behind the gear shift cover. If you need to ? use a lg pair of channel locks or pipe wrench to turn the gear assemble a little bit so that you can get under the edge to pry on it
DON'T loose the shims or mix them up !!!!!
 
Last edited:
Problem solved!

Problem solved!

O.k, I managed to pull the secondary bevel out of the side of the case - there was a case bolt that I had missed, once I loosened it, I could pry the gear out without damaging anything.
Not that the results were good. The gear was flopping around in the housing like a well-cooked piece of asparagus. The bearing assembly has totally destroyed itself and I can feel chunks of metal in the bottom of the transmission. The gear itself is only a little notched up, but since I think I should just pull the engine to clean out the bottom end I might as well use decent replacement parts.
The gear still attached to the driveshaft is firmly in place, but I guess these are a matched set and I should find a matched one to replace it.
I tyhink i'll be reading up in the manual on how to shim bevels...
Sad end to this tale, but at leat its figured out.
Thanks to all for the help!
 
It's good that you now know what's up. If the bearing has collapsed, you need to establish if the stock ones are suspect or whether the damage has been caused through the secondary gear case running low on gear oil. If it's poor quality stock bearings, you may decide to upgrade with another make, if they are available from another source.
The bearing races will show discolouration if they have been running hot through lack of lubrication. The bevel gears and shaft will also show some heat colouring, if it has run low on oil.
 
Next question: since the secondary gear bearing collapsed (O-ring was squished out of place, I think after 20 years it finally ran out of gear oil) I am going to need a set of bevels from a parts bike. Will the 850, or any other GS be o.k? If I put in a matched set from another bike (with shims), are the cases machined accurately enough that they will all fit without shimming again?
 
I doubt that the machining will be identical on all GS1100G cases, so you should assemble with bearing blue and check the contact pattern at the bevels. Also important to set up a dial indicator to check the amount of backlash.
I don't believe that you can fit the 850 bevel sets to your 1100. The part numbers are definately different. Not sure what the physical differences are though.
 
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