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New problem and questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Howdy again.

I was checking my air filter today, looked good. I'm still waiting for my manual from Wyomingben.com (i'm getting annoyed.) so I decided i would pull the bowl drain screws and see what I found. lo and behold, all kinds of debris came out of each bowl (the 2nd one, which i have problems with, being the worst) i primed the carbs back up and fired up. it was getting kinda dark, and i looked down (i had my ignition cover off, to check wiring earlier) and i noticed a visible spark b/w the points and their impact point. my first question is: "Is that normal?" i'm inclined to think that it's abnormal.

my second question (and subsequent questions) is/are relative to another thing: after i noticed the spark, as i put my hand on the killswitch to kill the engine, i got two REALLY GODAWFUL HIDEOUS LOUD backfires. they sounded like a .45 revolver going off. after my ears stopped ringing, i thought that there might be an issue with my intake manifold boots. would this cause the kind of backfire i experienced? would the poor condition of the cleanliness of the carburetors coupled with abnormalities in ignition cause this? any suggested recourse (i'll clean the carbs as soon as i get my manual) (and if you think it might be intake boots, where could I go about ordering the set of them?)

thanks in advance

Chris
 
Re: New problem and questions

At about dark, a visable spark on the points is normal. Every time they open, there will be a small spark.

Sure sounds like a good carb cleaning will help a lot. heh heh

You said..........as i put my hand on the killswitch to kill the engine, i got two REALLY GODAWFUL HIDEOUS LOUD backfires. ...........
My suspicion is that you put your hand on the kill switch with momentary pressure, which for a second or two killed the ignition. When you took your hand off the kill switch, the ignition resumed. During this time, the engine continued to draw fuel, so when the ignition do resume, there was excess gas in the cylinders and KabOOm! I wouldnt worry about it.
I used to do the same thing with my father's car when I was a kid. Turn the key off, wait a couple seconds, then turn it back on. Kaboom. LOL

Earl




m0unds said:
Howdy again.

I was checking my air filter today, looked good. I'm still waiting for my manual from Wyomingben.com (i'm getting annoyed.) so I decided i would pull the bowl drain screws and see what I found. lo and behold, all kinds of debris came out of each bowl (the 2nd one, which i have problems with, being the worst) i primed the carbs back up and fired up. it was getting kinda dark, and i looked down (i had my ignition cover off, to check wiring earlier) and i noticed a visible spark b/w the points and their impact point. my first question is: "Is that normal?" i'm inclined to think that it's abnormal.

my second question (and subsequent questions) is/are relative to another thing: after i noticed the spark, as i put my hand on the killswitch to kill the engine, i got two REALLY GODAWFUL HIDEOUS LOUD backfires. they sounded like a .45 revolver going off. after my ears stopped ringing, i thought that there might be an issue with my intake manifold boots. would this cause the kind of backfire i experienced? would the poor condition of the cleanliness of the carburetors coupled with abnormalities in ignition cause this? any suggested recourse (i'll clean the carbs as soon as i get my manual) (and if you think it might be intake boots, where could I go about ordering the set of them?)

thanks in advance

Chris
Click to expand...
 
the thing was, though, that I didn't depress the button, i was in the motion of moving towards it... i saw a visible orange spark come out of the right tailpipe as well.. i neglected to mention that
 
Hmmm, "reaching" for the kill switch is a bit different. :-) You did say, " I primed the carbs and started it back up" Were you still running on the prime setting when this happened? I know it happened because one (or more) cylinders was too rich. You didnt say it always happened, so this one time, I'm wondering what you did different than your normal routine? I wouldnt make any changes at this point. Wait and see if it is going to reoccur.
The baby could have had nothing more than a hiccup. :-)

Earl


m0unds said:
the thing was, though, that I didn't depress the button, i was in the motion of moving towards it... i saw a visible orange spark come out of the right tailpipe as well.. i neglected to mention that
Click to expand...
 
I wonder if having a float stuck open would cause that? However it happened, you had gas in your exhaust, it can happen with momentary killed ignition, or if you cranked it a lot before it started. It sure does wake you up though doesn't it. :lol:
 
Yeah, i went outside and tried starting it again. It will ONLY start and run on "prime" now. I couldn't get it to go with the "on" or "reserve" settings on the petcock.

i let it warm while it was doing that, and sure enough, it backfired like a mother again. this time I had earplugs in...cuz i'm still reeling from how loud it was last night

I'm still waiting for the manual. still. wyomingben.com = awful.

also, as an aside--- the heat from the pipes has changed: (from left to right) the 1 and 2 pipes are now scorching hot, but 3 and 4 are chilly. go figure.
 
You have definite carb problems, take em off and clean em up. That, and your petcock sounds like it needs a rebuild too.
 
The ignition matched pairs of pipes are the 1,4 and the 2,3. Since your 1,2 are hot and 3,4 are cold, it isnt an ignition problem. It almost has to be a carb problem. It appears your 1,2 cylinders are running lean and your 3,4
cylinders are between barely to not running. I think a carb cleaning and synch is mandatory. I dont think the bike will run decent without doing that.

Uhhh, that little "pop" in the pipe wake you up a tad? :-) :-) :-)

Earl

m0unds said:
Yeah, i went outside and tried starting it again. It will ONLY start and run on "prime" now. I couldn't get it to go with the "on" or "reserve" settings on the petcock.

i let it warm while it was doing that, and sure enough, it backfired like a mother again. this time I had earplugs in...cuz i'm still reeling from how loud it was last night

I'm still waiting for the manual. still. wyomingben.com = awful.

also, as an aside--- the heat from the pipes has changed: (from left to right) the 1 and 2 pipes are now scorching hot, but 3 and 4 are chilly. go figure.
Click to expand...
 
haha, yeah. woken up, definitely.

should i replace the float bowl gaskets, too?
i found the o-ring kits from Mr. Barr, they're $16 for the VM series carbs.. 32 o-rings. i assume that's for 4 carbs, as it seems hard to believe one carb would have 32 seals ;)

i'll look into the petcock rebuild kit

gracias, gentlemen
 
m0unds said:
should i replace the float bowl gaskets, too?
Click to expand...

Only if you need to, if you can reuse them and not have leaks, go for it. I've never had to replace them.
 
lhanscom said:
Only if you need to, if you can reuse them and not have leaks, go for it. I've never had to replace them.
Click to expand...


are they rubber gaskets?
 
m0unds said:
lhanscom said:
Only if you need to, if you can reuse them and not have leaks, go for it. I've never had to replace them.
Click to expand...


are they rubber gaskets?
Click to expand...

You know, I'm not sure, I think they were the card board like gasket material, all of mine have been stuck to the float bowl, so I've just left them alone.
 
yeah, that's kinda what i thought they were--cardboardish

also-- looks like the whole petcock assy. is still available, for $70 heh

any better a place to get one, or the kit to rebuild one?
 
m0unds said:
yeah, that's kinda what i thought they were--cardboardish

also-- looks like the whole petcock assy. is still available, for $70 heh

any better a place to get one, or the kit to rebuild one?
Click to expand...

It sounds like the petcock problem is the diaphram leaking. I'm not sure which style petcock you have, but if you're careful you can repair them sometimes. Other then that, try a junk yard.
 
is it possible to convert the bike to a mechanical petcock vs. a vacuum operated one?

i guess i'll have to wait until i get my manual to see if i can repair the petcock-- maybe it'll have an exploded view that i can compare. maybe.
 
Go with a Pingle mechanical petcock and eliminate the vacuum/diaphragm problem once and for all. (search and you will find several threads with model number). I got mine from Schnitz Racing for $52. You will also need the adaptor plate.

Also clean the carbs, replace float needle valves and adjust them.
 
As long as you can remove the float bowl gaskets in one piece and they are not brittle, you can reuse them. (I have many times) I also was impatient this past week and did not want to wait on ordering float bowl gaskets. You can spend $1 for a sheet of gasket material and cut your own with an x-acto knife,.......but it really is a PAIN in the (select appropriate location :-) )

Earl



m0unds said:
haha, yeah. woken up, definitely.

should i replace the float bowl gaskets, too?
i found the o-ring kits from Mr. Barr, they're $16 for the VM series carbs.. 32 o-rings. i assume that's for 4 carbs, as it seems hard to believe one carb would have 32 seals ;)

i'll look into the petcock rebuild kit

gracias, gentlemen
Click to expand...
 
I took apart my gauges and cleaned them. i can do that without hurting anything
 
BillC said:
Go with a Pingle mechanical petcock and eliminate the vacuum/diaphragm problem once and for all. (search and you will find several threads with model number). I got mine from Schnitz Racing for $52. You will also need the adaptor plate.
Click to expand...

I'll second that, the pingle's' work great, once you get used to shutting them off. I have a float that sticks sometimes, and I left my pingle on today, drained most of a tank of gas on my garage floor. :evil: Oh well, can't protect myself from me.
 
i looked at pingle petcocks in dennis kirk--- they showed them for $80.. is that about right? and i need the adaptor plate, no?
 
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