New project Bike

[LAB3]

The motor turns. The right side spark plug holes have suction, the Left side it’s hard to tell if it has good suction, not sure if my finger was covering the hole that great. But they still blow air out. Also the inside of the clutch cover is nasty and the same as the oil filter area.

If it was my project I'd do a compression test to see if there's anything wrong with the cylinder bores or rings, you can do this by jump starting off a battery to spin the engine. If that turns out OK then I'd be looking to do what has already been suggested and dropping the pan to clean out the screen and anything else I can get a clean rag into to wipe that crud off. Then I'd run some kerosene through it to clean up the oiling system (with the starter turning the engine over) followed by another flush with a low cost motor oil that'll flush out the kerosene.

 

[Guest]

Do I need to fill it back up with oil for the compression test?

 

[Guest]

Trying to do the compression test. But nothing happening when hitting the start button. Headlight taillights an turn signal work, horn trying to work.

What connects to the 2 prong connector under the right handlebar? There?s nothing connected right now.

 

[LAB3]

Trying to do the compression test. But nothing happening when hitting the start button. Headlight taillights an turn signal work, horn trying to work.

What connects to the 2 prong connector under the right handlebar? There’s nothing connected right now.

I'm assuming you're referring to the green/yellow wires that go to the engine kill switch, you could just connect those or jumper them together to complete the circuit to the starter relay.

As to oil in the engine I'll let someone else chime in on that one in order to avoid being bombarded with out dated produce. You should probably run a google search or look around on youtube for instructions on doing a compression test. Generally you test it as-is then put some oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes to help seal up any scoring on the cylinder walls.

 

[salty_monk]

I wouldn't have thought a compression test is going to tell you much at this point. You said you're going to pull the engine apart? If so you'll be able to see as you go. They are incredibly hard to kill.

My guess for what's in your oil is oil varnish. Too much to be part of the chain guides. Could be the remains of an old filter that's broken down. They are very hard to tune with those pods I see fitted, likely it was never jetted right.

Taking the oil pan off is easy. A bunch of 10mm bolts, tap it with a mallet & pull it off. You'll see the strainer as soon as you do. Good luck!

 

[LAB3]

I wouldn't have thought a compression test is going to tell you much at this point.

My thinking in suggesting it is to see if it's already toasted before going any further time and money wise.

 

[Guest]

I did the screwdriver bypass trick... from my tests each cylinder was at around 120. This is my first time doing a compression test. Also remember that the compression test I did was with the exhaust (Vance heins, 4-1) removed. Is that decent compression?

 

[salty_monk]

120 is the lower end of spec. I’d expect that with the way you’re doing it. The fact that they match is good....

 

[LAB3]

If it's been sitting awhile you might see that number go up after you have it up and running. At 120psi I'd move forward starting with the engine first before investing in tires, etc.

 

[Guest]

I plan on starting the engine first . My first step I initially wanted to try and get this broken exhaust stud out, but after doing some searching I think it might be better to take the head to a shop to have them remove it. It?s broken off flush so from what I?m gathering from other searches the favorite method here is to weld a nut on. Second option is to drill out and Tap. Ez out is not a good option. Tough decision... any suggestions

 

[Big T]

Get some reverse drill bits at HF
Center punch the bolt
Using the smallest bit, create a perfectly centered hole, then drill in a half inch or so, lubing as you go
Go up a drill size and go deeper
Repeat until the bolt remnant spins out
Do not use an EZout
If you're good, no tap needed

 

[Guest]

Tried the reverse drill bit. A bunch of bits of bolt Came out, biggest bit in the kit is still barely not big enough so there?’s still bolt In there... do I just buy a larger drill bit And keep drilling ?

 

[Guest]

Cleaning up the black dried up oil pan &other covers with the same stuff. Using simple green and dawn soap Finished with brake cleaner. Also trying to salvage the slightly rusted handlebars with steel wool & polish. Still haven?t got the broken exhaust stud. It?s basically just a hollow bolt left in there now.

 

[Guest]

I was told to try one of these kits885911591317 by David Torres, on Flickr
Here is the oil strainer885911591317 by David Torres, on Flickr
Notice the scratches inside the oil pan in the next 2 pictures(is this something to cause alarm)IMG_0235 by David Torres, on IMG_0236 by David Torres, on Flickr
The seat pan IMG_0198 by David Torres, on Flickr
Front fender chrome is in terrible condition, wonder if there is a way to remove the chrome plating and just paint it to save the part...IMG_0189 by David Torres, on Flickr

 

[Grimly]

The best way of using those screw extractors is to carefully grasp them in your left hand and with your right, open the lid of your bin and drop them in with your left.

 

[Guest]

The best way of using those screw extractors is to carefully grasp them in your left hand and with your right, open the lid of your bin and drop them in with your left.

Thanks for the advice. How should I actually get the last bits out? Just drill it all the way through?

 

[Grimly]

Thanks for the advice. How should I actually get the last bits out? Just drill it all the way through?

That's what's worked for me most times. Get a set of Left-hand drills in staged sizes.
Sure, I've had the odd success with extractors, but not that type. In fact, that type of extractor is notorious for breaking off and leaving you with a worse problem.

 

[Big T]

Tried the reverse drill bit. A bunch of bits of bolt Came out, biggest bit in the kit is still barely not big enough so there?’s still bolt In there... do I just buy a larger drill bit And keep drilling ?

Yes, but check your depth. If you drill too deep, you could hit an oil passage.

 

[wymple]

Nobody, IMO, should try extracting screws without a visit for an hour or so to You Tube to watch & see what others do. Much better than attacking a touchy little mess with no experience.

 

[Guest]

Before joining this forum I used a screw extractor to remove a snapped off bolt on the starter motor cover. It promptly snapped leaving me with not only a broken bolt but a snapped off extractor as well. There was no way to get it out as it was hardened steel and could not be drilled out. Fortunately there was enough aluminum to drill down underneath beside it with a tiny drill bit from 3 spots. I then tapped the bolt and extractor down into the casing re tapped the enlarged hole and installed a shorter bolt. It was a lesson learned and never forgotten .Will never use those again!