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new regulator/rectifier looks different than old one.

  • Thread starter Thread starter parkerross
  • Start date Start date
Be nice to know what bike you have or what your working on. I have one like your new one on a kz400, came on the bike when I got it. Think it's from Bike Master or something. Most folks are going to a series style sh-775 on here when it's time to make a switch
 
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Translating posplayr's comments...

With a little research you will learn that there are much better R/R units than the one your ordered. In particular the SH-775. There are literally thousands of different posts here on the charging system so please look around and educate yourself.

BTW, the unit you have will work. Just do some research on how to properly wire it into your bike. Do NOT just plug it back in the factory harness if you value a lasting repair.

Good luck
 
Yes, it will work. For a while.

There are others that will work MUCH better, but it would be nice to know what bike we are talking about.

.
 
Whats wrong with it? I thought oregon motorcycle parts made quality stuff?

Steve said:
Yes, it will work. For a while.

There are others that will work MUCH better, but it would be nice to know what bike we are talking about.

.
Click to expand...
 
parkerross said:
Whats wrong with it? I thought oregon motorcycle parts made quality stuff?
Click to expand...

They made it? They probably buy in bulk and just attach their name to it. Kind looks like the Chinese knockoffs. Besides, it the old shunt type RR as well.
 
Like others have said, I'm afraid you have likely picked up a substandard piece of kit. It will probably work, but considering your location, I'd send it back and buy something that is more robust, a proven better solution, and (after looking at the website) cheaper than what you have already paid out.
 
You might be harshing the mellow here, guys. The OP may not be able to return this R/R...


As you've noticed, this is not a plug-in type of deal. You'll have to make the connections yourself.

It should have come with a diagram, but basically, you'll need to take the three wires from the stator (they'll be different colors, but the colors don't matter) and connect each to one of the three yellow wires on the R/R. They can be in any order. Don't try to plug in to the wiring harness -- find the bundle of three wires that comes from the stator, and connect directly to these.

Red goes to the red or red/white wire that connected to the original R/R (some connect this directly to the battery, or make other modifications, but we'll keep it simple for now), and the black/white wire goes to a good solid ground.

Snip off the original crap bullet connectors and install new spade connectors.

You'll need to solder these connections or use HIGH QUALITY crimp connectors with HIGH QUALITY ratcheting crimper. Protect each connection with HIGH QUALITY lined shrink tubing. No Harbor Freight, Walmart, or Radio Shack crap. Do some Googling and Youtubing. Crimping is faster and better for high-vibration environments, but you need good tools and materials, which can be expensive and a little hard to find (aircraft and spaceships use crimping).

Soldering is cheap and the materials are easier to find, but it takes some skill and practice to do correctly.

Either will work fine IF you do a good job and use good materials.



But first, visit the stator papers, read and understand, and test your stator.

And before you fire it up, make SURE your battery is charged and healthy. Make sure the ground connections are good, and that there's a ground connection to the plate where the R/R and solenoid are mounted.
 
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bwringer said:
You might be harshing the mellow here, guys. The OP may not be able to return this R/R...


As you've noticed, this is not a plug-in type of deal. You'll have to make the connections yourself.

It should have come with a diagram, but basically, you'll need to take the three wires from the stator (they'll be different colors, but the colors don't matter) and connect each to one of the three yellow wires on the R/R. They can be in any order. Don't try to plug in to the wiring harness -- find the bundle of three wires that comes from the stator, and connect directly to these.

Red goes to the red or red/white wire [DELETE] that connected to the original R/R (some connect this directly to the battery, or make other modifications, but we'll keep it simple for now), and the black/white wire goes to a good solid ground.

Snip off the original crap bullet connectors and install new spade connectors.

You'll need to solder these connections or use HIGH QUALITY crimp connectors with HIGH QUALITY ratcheting crimper. Protect each connection with HIGH QUALITY lined shrink tubing. No Harbor Freight{THEY HAVE HIGH QUALITY SHRINK TUBING] Get some contact cleaner or dielectric grease., Walmart, or Radio Shack crap. Do some Googling and Youtubing. Crimping is faster and better for high-vibration environments, but you need good tools and materials, which can be expensive and a little hard to find (aircraft and spaceships use crimping).

Soldering is cheap and the materials are easier to find, but it takes some skill and practice to do correctly.

Either will work fine IF you do a good job and use good materials.



But first, visit the stator papers, read and understand,[you will be lead astray again if you follow that] and test your stator.

And before you fire it up, make SURE your battery is charged and healthy. Make sure the ground connections are good, and that there's a ground connection to the plate where the R/R and solenoid are mounted.
Click to expand...


See edits above.................
 
It may look different, but should serve same function electrically.

You will have three situations to deal with:

-Mounting. the bolt hole pattern is different. You will have to deal with that.

- Electricall connection method.
You will have four options,
1) add connectors to the new r/r wires that match/mate with the bike wiring conectors.
2) cut off the connectors and add different connectors to both the bike wiring and the new r/r wiring.
(I will support bwringers comments about common crimp-on connectors & crimp tools, those knubs on common wire strippers, not being reliable. My experience is they are even worse if the wire strands are stiff from being overheated.)
3) cut off bike wiring connectors, get all the soldering stuff, get the shrink tubing. Solder the connections. (and then never be able to take apart for testing.)
4) cut off connectors on bike wiring and use the little grey wire nuts. (I can hear some folks howling already.) This will get you going the quickest. Use black tape to keep out water. Soldering will be much better, but wire nuts, the little grey or maybe blue ones, will work, and easy to do.

- Connections.
Black wire is the ground. Connect to ground or battery negative. Stock connection is usally to the solenoid mounting bolt. Maybe cut wire off existing r/r black wire so have that ring terminal. If connect to solenoid mounting bolt; Is also good idea to Also add your own ground wire from this point to battery negative.
Red wire is r/r output. Connect to red wire of bike wiring, same as existing.
The three yellow wires: connect each to, the 3 that come from the stator. Original stock wiring was 2 directly to the stator and one went thru some wiring and then back to stator, but can connect all three from the r/r directly to the stator three. Stock stator will have these 3 wires that are different colors, most any aftermarket stator will have 3 yellow wires.

.

.
 
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Thanks for the replies. So with the new r/r since all 3 yellow wires go to the stator, do i still need the voltage regulator since one of the stator yellow wires went to that before?
 
parkerross said:
Thanks for the replies. So with the new r/r since all 3 yellow wires go to the stator, do i still need the voltage regulator since one of the stator yellow wires went to that before?
Click to expand...
There should be a rule newbies can only post pictures.......
 
Sounds like you still have the original individual regulator and rectifier. Not many of those left. Anyway the new one replaces both of the old items, it's a combined regulator and rectifier, hence the term R/R.
 
Awesome thanks, thats what i assumed but wasn't sure didn't want to screw something up.
 
parkerross said:
......................................... do i still need the voltage regulator since one of the stator yellow wires went to that before?
Click to expand...

huh...
what....




parkerross said:
i have a 77 gs 550
Click to expand...

Oh !

Put that in your signature line (goto UserCP.).
Then that info shows up in every post, and helps the folks that are trying to help you.

77, eh.

Here is link to complete manual. (is 70-80 Megs....)

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS550_77-82_all.pdf

The manual first portion is for 1977. Then later portions are for later years.
The schematic about page 160something, would be for 1977.
It does show stator wired to a separate rectifier, and a separate regulator. (I had thought that was only like 74 or 75 that had that, before was many GSes.)

Assuming the new unit you got is in fact a combined R/R (like most all GSes have), wire it up like has been stated here in last few posts -- without the existing regulator connected to the stator.



The schematic on about last page is for the 550 M (Katana?).
SO don't just go to back of the book to find schermatic.




.
 
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Redman said:
It does show stator wired to a separate rectifier, and a separate regulator. (I had thought that was only like 74 or 75 that had that, before was many GSes.)

Assuming the new unit you got is in fact a combined R/R (like most all GSes have), wire it up like has been stated here in last few posts -- without the existing regulator connected to the stator.
Click to expand...

They were actually separate right up until '79. Probably not many left that haven't been updated though.
 
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