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New remote ignition/start installed

Agemax

Agemax

Forum Guru
Finished the install on my new remote ignition and starter today.
it uses a 4 channel remote system, 1 powering a pulse input latching relay to turn the ignition on and off, and another to power the starter motor.
much more compact and robust than my old units and more range.
i plan on connecting a 3rd channel to a remote choke lever operation when i get round to it.

this is the system mounted next to the relay, wired up with AMP superseal multi connectors.



and here is the system installed, the main aluminium angle bracket helps to hide all the other wires in there as well.



 
Everything looks very clean; do you hAve a link to a description of the remote system?
 
It's well done and all, but the question begs itself - WHY?

The primary purpose for remote start systems for autos is occupant comfort - you want to heat or cool the interior prior to getting in. Remote start for a motorcycle gains what - maybe 30 seconds or a minute while the engine warms up enough to pull the choke off?
 
posplayr said:
Looks like they squeezed 4 mechanical relays (5A/ 230 VAC) into close to the same form factor I plan for the SSPB.


The voltage spec is really tight on +12V (11V-13V).

So one channel is ignition the other is solenoid? You have to leave the Kill switch enabled?

Why did you need the external relay?
Click to expand...

the +12v tolerance is actually wider than that written in the spec sheet, according to the technical team.
yep, one is for ignition which pulses the pulse input latching relay to turn the ignition on/off, and the other is starter solenoid.
the ignition will switch on and off regardless of kill switch but the starter wont work with kill switch off or if the bike is not in neutral
(thats why i asked you the question a while back regarding solenoid grounding through neutral light switch).

not only is it fitted for convenience, but it now has no visible ignition switch which confuses potential thieves and makes it harder to "hotwire".

also when the ignition is off, the external relay then powers a small alarm (yet to be fitted) which will incorporate a panic alarm controlled by the same operating keyfob
 
That sounds pretty neat! Cheers! However, it ain't a gonna do much good against four big guys with a pick up truck. hehe eh
 
Agemax said:
the +12v tolerance is actually wider than that written in the spec sheet, according to the technical team.
yep, one is for ignition which pulses the pulse input latching relay to turn the ignition on/off, and the other is starter solenoid.
the ignition will switch on and off regardless of kill switch but the starter wont work with kill switch off or if the bike is not in neutral
(thats why i asked you the question a while back regarding solenoid grounding through neutral light switch).

not only is it fitted for convenience, but it now has no visible ignition switch which confuses potential thieves and makes it harder to "hotwire".

also when the ignition is off, the external relay then powers a small alarm (yet to be fitted) which will incorporate a panic alarm controlled by the same operating keyfob
Click to expand...

If that is true you have defeated the safety purpose of the Kill Switch.

One of the other things I have been wrestling with on the SSPB (and I think I have it knocked) that is there is an additional safety issue when you control the ignition circuit through a FET. If the FET shorts (the predominate failure mode) you also can't turn off the bike with either the kill switch or the ignition switch.

This can be bad if you have been screwing with your throttle cable.
 
Last edited:
You're a clever dick Adrian .
Can I buy one for another couple of packets of Tim Tams ?
On second thoughts , I better not . I'm barely smart enough to drive a key , let alone a wizardry .

Gorn, gis another look at that potential bobber of your's (it'd put a horn on a jellyfish) .

Cheers , Simon .
 
posplayr;1910562[COLOR="Blue" said:
]If that is true you have defeated the safety purpose of the Kill Switch.[/COLOR]

One of the other things I have been wrestling with on the SSPB (and I think I have it knocked) that is there is an additional safety issue when you control the ignition circuit through a FET. If the FET shorts (the predominate failure mode) you also can't turn off the bike with either the kill switch or the ignition switch.

This can be bad if you have been screwing with your throttle cable.
Click to expand...

why have i? you can turn the key and the power will come on with the kill switch on or off, same as the remote.

the kill switch still kills the motor when it is running, and wont allow the engine to start if the kill switch is off. EXACTLY the same as the stock set up!

the kill switch is still hard wired to the ignition circuit so IF in the event anything should decide to fail, the kill switch will still kill the motor.
 
Agemax said:
why have i? you can turn the key and the power will come on with the kill switch on or off, same as the remote.

the kill switch still kills the motor when it is running, and wont allow the engine to start if the kill switch is off. EXACTLY the same as the stock set up!

the kill switch is still hard wired to the ignition circuit so IF in the event anything should decide to fail, the kill switch will still kill the motor.
Click to expand...

I asked before:

You have to leave the Kill switch enabled?
Click to expand...

To which you posted

the ignition will switch on and off regardless of kill switch
Click to expand...

I have no idea how you wired it, just asking questions. :(
 
Last edited:
yeah i said the ignition will switch on and off, as in you put the key in the IGNITION and turn the IGNITION key on. not the actual circuit which powers the ignition circuit.
 
Agemax said:
yeah i said the ignition will switch on and off, as in you put the key in the IGNITION and turn the IGNITION key on. not the actual circuit which powers the ignition circuit.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I have been working on a fuse box for the last month. The ignition circuit is enabled by the both the ignition and the kill switch and actually will not come on even when Ignition SW is on if the Kill switch is off.

Yea I know it is traditional to say the ignition comes on when the ignition switch is switched on, however not when a Kill switch is Off.

So I'm guessing you have modified the wiring to the ignition switch but nothing downstream which gets back to the original question which is that the Kill switch has to be left in the on position for the remote to be able to start the bike. No?? :confused:
 
yes you are correct, the remote will power up the bike, regardless of kill switch position, but you cannot start it if the kill switch is off, or the bike is not in neutral.
 
Agemax said:
yes you are correct, the remote will power up the bike, regardless of kill switch position, but you cannot start it if the kill switch is off, or the bike is not in neutral.
Click to expand...

Sorry it is clearer now; so what was the mechanical relay for? The remote will drive 5 Amps per circuit.
 
the remote relays can be set to either momentary or latching, all of them at the same time, not individually. i have set them to momentary action.
the mechanical latching relay is so that a 12v pulse will activate the ignition switch circuit and stay on until it is pulsed again to switch it off. therefore the starter button relay is still momentary action, so the starter will spin as long as i keep my finger on the button.the starter motor will still turn using the original starter button if desired.

the relays in the system are rated at 5A at 230vac, the guy at the tech help centre states they will cope with 22A at 12vdc. which is easily enough to cope with all the circuits on the bike (individually)
 
Agemax said:
the remote relays can be set to either momentary or latching, all of them at the same time, not individually. i have set them to momentary action.
the mechanical latching relay is so that a 12v pulse will activate the ignition switch circuit and stay on until it is pulsed again to switch it off. therefore the starter button relay is still momentary action, so the starter will spin as long as i keep my finger on the button.the starter motor will still turn using the original starter button if desired.

the relays in the system are rated at 5A at 230vac, the guy at the tech help centre states they will cope with 22A at 12vdc. which is easily enough to cope with all the circuits on the bike (individually)
Click to expand...


I wonder if they are using something similar to this one in the package. It has the same 5/230 VAC rating and similar form factor. The single pole models will drive 10Amps at 30VDC into a resistive load.

It is 29x13x35.5mm (LxWXH)

http://www.ia.omron.com/data_pdf/data_sheet/g2r-_-s_ds_csm42.pdf
 
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