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New stator but my voltage is dropping

  • Thread starter Thread starter coltrain
  • Start date Start date
C

coltrain

Guest
Hey guys, I just installed a new stator and wired the 3 legs straight into my honda voltage regulator on my 1979 GS750EN bypassing the headlight switch on the handlebars. Problem is before I start the bike I have a good 12+ volts but when I start it up The voltage drops to 11.75 or so.. once I turn the key off the voltage goes back up to 12+
What the hell did I do? I just left the red/white and green/white wires (going to the headlight sw on hdlbars) alone.
 
coltrain said:
Hey guys, I just installed a new stator and wired the 3 legs straight into my honda voltage regulator on my 1979 GS750EN bypassing the headlight switch on the handlebars. Problem is before I start the bike I have a good 12+ volts but when I start it up The voltage drops to 11.75 or so.. once I turn the key off the voltage goes back up to 12+
What the hell did I do? I just left the red/white and green/white wires (going to the headlight sw on hdlbars) alone.
Click to expand...

At idle the stator output is usually barely enough to keep up, and sometimes not that. You have to get to 3000 rpm or so before it's doing much.
 
What you did sounds fine, recheck you rect/reg wiring poss bad reg ?
 
My switch on the handelbars still works? I do leave the headlight on though. Its charging worse than before. 11.8 at 5k rpm I've never heard of one of those honda units go bad? I bought it off that fella duneage! ahhh well I guess I gotta go through all the troubleshooting steps. I am ****ed tho! :mad: Its been forever since a nice ride!
 
Did you connect the red wire from your R/R directly to the + side of the battery and the black wire directly to the - side of the battery ? The other 2 wires you bypassed just go to a plug and return to the R/R they only go the the head light on non USA models. Is it a 5 or 6 wire R/R ? What shape is the battery in ? It should be closer to 13 volts like 12.8 to begin with.
Do you have around 80 volts ac from yellow to yellow when running ? You should have that from 1 yellow to both the other yellows.
 
Cooking with electrons

Cooking with electrons

Hi Mr. coltrain,

Did you crimp on new connectors? I replaced all the old "bullet" connectors...

DSCF2492.jpg


...with spade connectors.

DSCF2525_cleanconnections.jpg


Double-check your connections and connectors. I also bypassed the wires up to my non-existent headlight switch, ran a dedicated ground wire from the r/r to the negative (-) battery terminal, and cleaned every connector I could find. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
this stinks

this stinks

okay I switched meter to volts AC and tested the three legs coming off the stator. Yeah I have 6 volts when I got yellow to yellow between them. I have 3 volts if I go from yellow to ground. I dont think that is even close to what I'm lookin for. All I did was replace the stator this go around. The RR was replaced in the spring with a honda unit from duneage. Wiring looks good everwhere.

The three bolts/screws that bolt the stator in - does anybody know where to get those in allen head?
 
coltrain said:
okay I switched meter to volts AC and tested the three legs coming off the stator. Yeah I have 6 volts when I got yellow to yellow between them. I have 3 volts if I go from yellow to ground. I dont think that is even close to what I'm lookin for. All I did was replace the stator this go around. The RR was replaced in the spring with a honda unit from duneage. Wiring looks good everwhere.

The three bolts/screws that bolt the stator in - does anybody know where to get those in allen head?
Click to expand...

If you only have 6 volts AC off the stator, yellow to yellow something is badly wrong. Either you installed wrong or the stator is bad. Manual says 80 volts AC, I think stator papers say 65 volts AC, I've had mechanics tell me you can get by with 45 volts AC, but 6 sure isn't gonna do it.
 
You should have more like 70-80 volts ac when you measure from 1 yellow to another. You have 3 yellows clip ur lead one to 1 yellow wire and connect the other lead to first 1 then the other yellow, then connect to the other 2 yellows you didn't have the lead on to begin with and you should get around 70-80 volts at around 5000 rpm. If the stator doesn't put out the right voltage something is wrong with it. You have to find out the problem with the stator before the R/R will work. Hope this helps.
 
Meter on AC ? Plug it into a wall socket just to make sure its working. Should read 120VAC. Also, the Stator wires must be disconnected from the RR to do this test.
 
bonanzadave said:
Meter on AC ? Plug it into a wall socket just to make sure its working. Should read 120VAC. Also, the Stator wires must be disconnected from the RR to do this test.
Click to expand...

Good point on have to disconnect from R/R, trying to think of reasons his new stator would be toasted already.
 
Thanks for the replies... I disconnected the stator wires! I am using a fluke damn nice meter and it checks out fine.

Can you install a stator backwards or wrong? I am thinking no but just wanna check! Yeah something is wrong with this stator. Before I replaced the stator I could almost get 13 v at 5 k rpm.

alright then... I guess its time to take the stator back out - yay!
I was goin on a trip next weekend too...
 
coltrain said:
Thanks for the replies... I disconnected the stator wires! I am using a fluke damn nice meter and it checks out fine.

Can you install a stator backwards or wrong? I am thinking no but just wanna check! Yeah something is wrong with this stator. Before I replaced the stator I could almost get 13 v at 5 k rpm.

alright then... I guess its time to take the stator back out - yay!
I was goin on a trip next weekend too...
Click to expand...

Before you pull the cover put your meter on ohm and check all the yellows to ground you should have no continunity , in other words the meter should show infinite if you have any reading than that it is shorted to ground. When I got my bike it had a new stator in it but 1 lead was pinched between the cover and the motor. Next check between the yellow leads it should show continunity or low resistance. If your readings are other than that the stator is bad so pull the cover. You'll get it just keep at it.
 
lucabond said:
Before you pull the cover put your meter on ohm and check all the yellows to ground you should have no continunity , in other words the meter should show infinite if you have any reading than that it is shorted to ground. Next check between the yellow leads it should show continunity or low resistance. If your readings are other than that the stator is bad so pull the cover. You'll get it just keep at it.
Click to expand...

I just did these tests and with meter on ohms I have open line O.L when testing between ground and the three stator leads. I then tested between the three stator leads for resistance and they all would eventually zero out. 0.0000

what does that tell me?
 
That is telling you the stator is good!!!!!!!!. Now check it again with the meter on AC MAKE SURE ITS SET TO THE 200 RANGE. Check an ac outlet to make sure your meter reads about 110 volts then if that checks good test the stator while its disconnected from the RR and motor running about 5000 rpm and see what you get maybe before you were getting 60 volts but had your meter set for the wrong range. Keep going your getting there.
 
lucabond said:
That is telling you the stator is good!!!!!!!!. Now check it again with the meter on AC MAKE SURE ITS SET TO THE 200 RANGE. Check an ac outlet to make sure your meter reads about 110 volts then if that checks good test the stator while its disconnected from the RR and motor running about 5000 rpm and see what you get maybe before you were getting 60 volts but had your meter set for the wrong range. Keep going your getting there.
Click to expand...

I see what your talkin bout with the meter! I had to mess with the range to read 120 volts in an outlet. But yet still I'm getting the same thing. Before the tests were at idle. I jacked up the throttle to 5k and I was getting 23 volts and back to 6 volts at idle so something is up! I have no idea!
 
coltrain said:
I see what your talkin bout with the meter! I had to mess with the range to read 120 volts in an outlet. But yet still I'm getting the same thing. Before the tests were at idle. I jacked up the throttle to 5k and I was getting 23 volts and back to 6 volts at idle so something is up! I have no idea!
Click to expand...

Lets make sure we are on the same page. You clipped 1 lead from the meter to 1 of the yellow leads coming the stator then clipped the second lead from the meter to 1 of the other yellow leads and got only 23 volts ac. Then you moved the second lead from the meter to the other yellow lead and got 23 volts. Then you moved the first lead you clipped from the meter to 1 of the other yellow leads and read the voltage from that 1 to the 3rd yellow lead. In other words you took 3 readings and got 23 volts each time ? If that is the case then yes your stator is bad it must have been wound incorrectly. I would call the company you got the stator from and explain to them what you did and see what they said.
I'll pm you with my phone # if you want to give me a call.
 
Last edited:
Better question. Did you replace the stator with the CORRECT stator? There were TWO different stators (actually THREE if you count the big ones the 1100s later on used) a 12 pole and an 18 pole. If youve got a 12 pole stator in an 18 pole rotor, you're not going to get the proper voltage. If the stator is testing good from the stator only, then something is up with this.
 
TheCafeKid said:
Better question. Did you replace the stator with the CORRECT stator? There were TWO different stators (actually THREE if you count the big ones the 1100s later on used) a 12 pole and an 18 pole. If youve got a 12 pole stator in an 18 pole rotor, you're not going to get the proper voltage. If the stator is testing good from the stator only, then something is up with this.
Click to expand...

Would a larger stator put out a higher voltage? Or the same voltage but a higher amperage rating ?
 
lucabond said:
Would a larger stator put out a higher voltage? Or the same voltage but a higher amperage rating ?
Click to expand...
No, its not LARGER, it simply has more or less poles, and the charging rotor that rotates around it has positive and negative magnets to corospond to the number of poles on the stator. If they arent matched up, it wont be "on-off" right.
 
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