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No Engine turn on switch (GS650G)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Seaking
  • Start date Start date
S

Seaking

Guest
Greettings. I'm at the point of my work where I'm ready to do the compression test after adjusting valve clearances and finally getting my gaskets in place. Unfortunately, the engine won't turn over with the right thumb switch.

Here's the current state of affairs. I hope someone out there can clue me into what I'm missing from what I hope is a simple thing.. ?!

I am the first to fully admit that I'm a Gump when it comes the electricals, though I know how to solder properly.. the theory behind electricity has always been a mystery to me to some degree..

Fully charged batter connected to the bike (voltages might be lower than full as I've been trying this for a bit..) The carbs and spark plugs are removed for the compression test, and coils disconnected. Bike is in neutral sitting on the centre stand at this time.

I show 12.4v across the 15A Main and 10A power source fuses with the key off. With the key on, I show slightly less across the other fuses (head signal and ignition).. good up to there so far?

With the kill switch to the run position, starter button doesn't do anything. I took both apart and cleaned them off. Continuity check shows that they work. But I don't know where to check from 'up front' to the 'back end of stuff' on the bike to see if I have a bad connection somewhere.

Now I'm looking at the starter relay located just next to the battery compartment on left side of bike. There is power going to the first relay terminal from the battery.

I tried the continuity check as indicated in the book and nothing.. remove lead to starter, put multimeter leads on both relay terminals and with key turned on, press starter button, there should be continuity... but no.. infitinity and beyond.. so this would lead me to believe that the starter relay is toast? I don't get a click noise or anything coming off the relay..

Its either a fully dead relay or I have an open / dirty connection from the start switch to the relay prevent it from getting a signal to work properly?

Without ripping the harness apart to trace wires, I checked as many connectors as possible and cleaned them out as best I could but encountered this one.. hmm a little toasted at some time.. best I can tell it comes off the RR, some leads dip down past the starter to the stator I'm guessing..

The brain is afuzz and I'm stepping away from this for now until I can get some info.. (lest wrenches go flying..?).

Any insight or info would be highly appreciated..

Cheers

http://www.eastcoastphotos.com/gs650g/picture0074.jpg
 
Steve said:
Try pulling the clutch lever while pushing the starter button. :o.
Click to expand...

Groan... something 'painfully obvious'.. Thanks.. I'll give it a try and see what happens..

Thanks again (pinches bridge of nose a la John Cleese exasperation mode)

Final note: One quick reply from a knowledgable GS owner to a silly n00be resolved an evening's problem in 2 minutes.. Clutch lever it was.. yeeeah... right.. hangs head low in shame.. at least a lot of the electrical connections were cleaned out, so the whole evening wasn't a loss.. and I learned a couple of things.. I was told that these bikes do not have a kick stand kill switch, so I wrongly assumed there wouldn't be anything else 'safety' wise to prevent it from turning. Wrong I was ;)

Turns out my compression gauge is shyte.. it's not holding pressure at all.. or all 4 cylinders are toast at the same amount..

More fun ;)

Off to bed before I do more damage to the tools...

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Seaking said:
Turns out my compression guage is shyte.. it's not holding pressure.. or all 4 cylinders are toast at the same amount..

Thanks again (pinches bridge of nose a la John Cleese exasperation mode)
Click to expand...

Did you open the throttle while testing? HAve you adjusted the valves yet?
 
tkent02 said:
Did you open the throttle while testing? HAve you adjusted the valves yet?
Click to expand...

Hi, yes, the valves were properly adjusted (thanks to the Shim Club). As I understood it, the full throttle open would not be required if the carbs are off the engine (no intake restriction).. I think this was mentioned in my original post?

But is that correct though, that the open throttle is not required when carbs are off?

The bike had been sitting for over 2 years since last run, some have told me that I may not see full compression until the engine has run a bit to 'regroove' itself or something like that. I will be gathering another compression tester soon to do the test again.. just to be sure..

Thanks M8

Cheers
 
tkent02 said:
What were your numbers?
Click to expand...

horrible :eek:

all 4 cylindres were showing between 30-40 psi.. Like I said, I think the gauge is shyte as the needle bounces up to just past 30 and drops immidiately..

I suppose it is possible all 4 cylindres are weak in compression and nothing wrong with the gauge.. ergh Book says it should be at 142-199 PSI, limit at 100 PSI and a difference of 20 PSI..
 
tkent02 said:
If it drops immediately it's got to be leaking.
Click to expand...

I hope you mean the gauge! tis a late night here, I'm off the bike for the night and will check in again tomorrow with another gauge..

Thanks for the assist.

Cheers
 
Well I lucky enough to inherit my friend's compression tester since he can't take it with him on his new posting and was able to do a compression test on the bike.. and I think I have a keeper!

Book calls for 142-199 psi with a difference of no more than 28 PSI..

And I have 165 to 175 PSI across the four cylinders, and pressure holding.

Well THAT's a relief..

Another query in another topic forum.. ;)

Thanks for the assist and info!

Cheers
 
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