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no fuel in the bowl

  • Thread starter Thread starter lapantz
  • Start date Start date
L

lapantz

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Hey guys,
a lot of you helped me with my 81 GS100GL problem early last week. The problem I have is no fuel getting through to the carbs. The bike hasn't been ridden in about 5 years and it's in great shape. So far I have done:

1. drained the carb bowls to get rid of the old gas.
2. soaked the carbs in laquer thinner.
3. New battery
4. cleaned/gapped plugs
5. re-built petcock which was leaking bad, now not at all.

Things are "looking" great but still when I set the fuel vale to pri, I'm not getting any flow down through the carbs. I also took off the fuel line from the petcock where it attaches to the tank and I get plenty of gas gushing out. I also blew through the same fuel line when it was not connected to anything and get good air flow. It has an inline filter which I'm thinking about bypassing but still, if I'm getting good air flow through the tube/filter, wouldn't fuel flow the same way?

I'm really stuck. :confused:

Thanks for any suggestions.

Chuck
 
Loose the filter.

After that, connect the line and turn on Prime. Loosen a couple of fuel bowl drains to see if there is gas there.
 
There are a couple things that concern me here.

In-line filter. If it is a typical filter found in an auto parts store, it might be your problem. They are designed to be in a line where gas is moved by a pump, not gravity. If you insist on having a filter, get one made for a lawn mower with a gravity-fed fuel system.

Soaked the carbs in laquer thinner. First of all, lacquer thinner is not the best carb solvent. Second, did you take the carbs apart? If not, the rubber o-rings and fiber gaskets are probably junk. For just a bit more than the price of a gallon of lacquer thinner, you can get the real stuff, Berryman's Carburetor Cleaner, in a gallon can with the dipping basket.

How are your intake tubes? If they are hard, now would be a good time to change them and the o-rings that seal them to the cylinder head. O-rings are less than $2, but the tubes are $15-20.

Other than that, sounds like you are on the right track.


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Nessism/Steve/All,

I took off the fuel line and removed the filter. Will get a replacement fuel line without the filter.

Quick (silly) question: I trickled water into that filter and it trickled out the other side. Does that mean anything?

Oh ya, when I removed the fuel line, there was gas in the nipple on the fuel rail (where the hose connects) but it didn't go any further, ie. no fuel in the bowls.

Thanks again,

Chuck
 
lapantz said:
I trickled water into that filter and it trickled out the other side. Does that mean anything?
Click to expand...

Yes is does. :shock: Let's put it mildly...any fuel filter that passes water is not much of a filter. :oops:


There is a remote possibility that something is stuck in the fuel inlet "T", but that is rather unlikely. What is more possible is related to something that you have not answered from my original question. Did you dip the entire carb in the lacquer thinner or did you take each carb apart and only dip the metal pieces? It sounds like you need to take the carbs off the bike, remove each carb from the mounting rails, disassemble the carbs (one at a time, please) and dip them in carb cleaner. It sounds like the lack of gas problem is related to the float valves being stuck. Sometimes they have rubber-coated seats, and they may have been destroyed if you dipped the entire carb. You will likely need to order new float valves from Z1 Enterprises, Bike Bandit or Flatout, and also order an o-ring set from cycleorings.com. While you have the carbs out, check the condition of the intake tubes. Might as well order o-rings for them, too. It is much better to get all the parts and do it once than it is to do part of the job only to find out you need to do more.


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Hey Steve,
thanks for hanging in there with me, I'm new at this motorcylce repair thing.
Sorry for the oversight of the original question, I did not take them apart. I took off as much as I could, caps, bowls, springs but by the sounds of it, there is a lot more to take when dissambled. Not doubting my own abilities but taking carbs apart is a little intimidating. Do I run the risk of messing up timing, claibration whatever when I do that?

Chuck
 
lapantz said:
Do I run the risk of messing up timing, claibration whatever when I do that?

Chuck
Click to expand...


OF COURSE.\\:D/ You will change EVERYTHING. :shock: But then you'll put it back right where it's supposed to be. 8-[

Actually, you will not affect the ignition timing at all, but I think I know what you meant.
Synchronizing the carbs affects the timing of when they open. That's what you meant, right? :-s

There is an excellent write-up in the garage section on how to work on your carbs. Click here to go to that section. There is a .pdf file there, download that and print it out. It helps a LOT. You will note that the carbs in the rebuild series are on an 850. Doesn't matter, the parts are basically the same, just different sizes for your 1000.

Order the o-rings for the intake tubes and carbs, and get a gallon can of carb dip. Also make sure you have a selection of straight screwdrivers with fresh, sharp tips to minimize damage to the brass jets you will be removing. When you get the float valves out, you will be able to tell if you need to order replacements for them.

Feel free to PM me if you need any more help.


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