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No power from new stator??? HELP

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jimbobs-bobber
  • Start date Start date
J

Jimbobs-bobber

Guest
Help please.... I'm currently rebuilding a GS850 Hardtail bobber which I brought in boxes. I'm not getting any power out of the stator, so I replaced it & still no power. So i thought maybe its a flywheel issue as both old & new stators passed all tests with my multimeter. Still now output..???

What am I missing out? Can anyone steer me in the right direction
 
If you spell out the tests and results, then you will probably narrow now the possibilities and you can get a constructive answer.
 
Sorry new to this, with the bike running I've tested the output from the 3 yellows from the stator at tickover & at high revs...= zero volts.. I've followed all the tests in the Stator Papers site and now I'm currently diode testing my regulator.
 
Did you test the meter using a house outlet? Make sure you can measure 120 VAC . Don't touch any metal.
It is possible you don't have the right rotor but normally you get some AC voltage out.
 
+1 Assuming the new stator is good, the next step is to confirm if that rotor is correct...sometimes "box bikes" dont alwsys have all the parts or the correct parts.
If the rotor is correct, then I'd question the stator being good....the two together are a fairly simplistic system if all is correct.
 
What year is the bike? Especially the engine, if it has been changed.

What model stator?

The 1979 850 came with a 12-pole stator. All the other years came with an 18-pole stator. The two are not compatible.

.
 
The engine number seems to point to 1979 to 1980 & i've just checked & the shop has sent me a 12 pole stator & the old one is a 18 pole. Also my R/R has failed the diode test...bugger
 
No kick start it's electric. 850 GT Uk version.
This is were I'm at now..... ignition circuit is fine,bike starts & stops on a fully charged battery, R/R removed as toast awaiting replacement. Changed back to original 18 pole stator as 12 pole produced zero volts form all 3 phases. Still zero volts from 18 pole and replacement flywheel.
 
They all have electric starters, the telling point is the lack of a kicker. That rules out '79 and its 12-pole stator. You should have an 18-pole stator installed.

Now you have replaced the flywheel, are you sure it's compatible with the 18-pole stator?

.
 
As stated, the 18 pole stator needs the correct flywheel...on inside, this will have 6 pairs of N/S magnets..you can determine this using a small round magnet and moving it around the inside of rotor. It should grab 6 times and repel 6 times. The older 12 pole rotor had 4 pairs of N/S magnets.
 
ok I've checked both flywheels... turns out the original flywheel is matched with the original 18 pole stator which came in the bike (magnet test 6 pairs), which produced no volts but passed the ohms test. still investigating.

the ebay replacement flywheel is a 12 pole compatible type (4 magnet pairs) but even that fails to produce a volt on the new stator I brought ..... i'm now doubting my voltmeter & my sanity so I'm ordering a new one, voltmeter that is.

Even spoke to the Local Bike shop & he was perplexed.
 
Jimbobs-bobber said:
ok I've checked both flywheels... turns out the original flywheel is matched with the original 18 pole stator which came in the bike (magnet test 6 pairs), which produced no volts but passed the ohms test. still investigating.

the ebay replacement flywheel is a 12 pole compatible type (4 magnet pairs) but even that fails to produce a volt on the new stator I brought ..... i'm now doubting my voltmeter & my sanity so I'm ordering a new one, voltmeter that is.

Even spoke to the Local Bike shop & he was perplexed.
Click to expand...

The "OHMS TEST " is worse than worthless.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...of-Stator-testing&highlight=2nd+law+of+stator

You should only use the leg to leg and leg to ground tests measuring VAC at 5K rpm. The most reliable tests are the leg to ground. See the (my) revised Phase B stator pages.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...vised-Phase-B-Tests&highlight=Revised+Phase+B

If you have an AC current clamp you can actually measure current flow.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...HEAP-STATOR-TESTING&highlight=Revised+Phase+B
 
Last edited:
posplayr said:
He should have tested it with a 120VAC outlet
Click to expand...

He's UK, so it's going to be 220v, give or take; but with no load, even a sickly stator should develop SOME voltage, and it should vary with r.p.m. A measurement of zero across all three legs just doesn't seem likely to me. So -- do we KNOW the meter works?
 
robertbarr said:
He's UK, so it's going to be 220v, give or take; but with no load, even a sickly stator should develop SOME voltage, and it should vary with r.p.m. A measurement of zero across all three legs just doesn't seem likely to me. So -- do we KNOW the meter works?
Click to expand...

Apparently, up until this point, it doesn't matter; He has been doing ohm tests.
 
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