No Power! (Wiring Question)

[JayT]

Hey guys! So I've been doing some reading in my manual and something doesnt add up on why I have no power in my bike at all. I pulled off the seat and this is what I see. Is the large red line my issue here? Per my manual, it shouldn't be split. Also, I've read that this grey fuse is normally used in cars. Is that correct? Thanks for your help


Jay



1979 GS550 is my bike

 

[JayT]

No fuse box? But I have this grey cylinder

 

[Guest]

The gray cylinder is your turn signal flasher. Your ONLY fuse is in that white snap-together thingy on the red wire.

Your red wire being "split" is probably shown in your manual, you just might not be reading it correctly. The larger wire that loops is going to your starter solenoid. It has apparently been replaced, because Suzuki did not supply a red wire there, nor was it that long, nor did it have that yellow crimp-on connector. The other wire (the one with the fuse) needs to connect to the battery. The battery-to-solenoid wire is a great place to attach it. It does not matter whether it actually connects at the battery or at the solenoid, electrically, they are the same point.

 

[JayT]

Thanks a lot phydeauxmutt!

 

[JayT]

My main fuse keeps blowing out. If my right control "start engine" button doesn't work, could that be what's wrong?

 

[Steve]

You are going to have to clarify "not working" just a bit. You are also going to have to provide some details about when the fuse blows.

Let's assume that you have just installed a new fuse. Everything should be just fine.
1. With the "kill" switch in the OFF position, turn the key ON. Fuse still good?
2. Turn the 'kill' switch ON. Fuse still good?
3. Push the starter button. What happens? Does the starter turn, but engine won't start? Does nothing happen? Fuse still good?

You have to approach electrical problems in a very systematic way. Follow the current path from beginning to end, don't jump around.

Not sure what your picture is showing, except the right side housing away from the throttle barrel.

.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

My main fuse keeps blowing out. If my right control "start engine" button doesn't work, could that be what's wrong?

If your start button does not work how are you running the bike or are you not and the fuse is blowing as soon as you turn on the ignition?

Just wondering if the wire/wires to/from the start switch are pinched somewhere and shorting out
Has the start button ever worked whilst you have had the bike?
have you been working on the bike and this problem has surfaced after maintenance?

 

[JayT]

Sorry for the vague question guys. I should have just asked this question after I received my right hand controls in the mail. The picture I thought I sent were of the outside of the controls.

Here are the details: I've been running the bike off of kickstart because the right hand control's start button is missing. So the switch is "OFF" until I turn the key. It started up yesterday after quite a few kicks (15-25 approximately). I came back out to warm her up again this morning. Lights came on....choke....turned the key then switched to "Engine On." I kicked it for 4-5min (throttle open) and no start. I still had lights. I gave it a couple minutes (coffee break) and came back a bit later to go at it again. The switch controls moved not even a mm and my lights went out. I wanted to see what was throwing it off so I put it another fuse and hit the switch (after key) again. Fuse blown.

I've been reading that it could be two or three things (short, needs for a RR snd stator, or just time for an ignition system upgrade). But I needed to grab some input before I made the decision and bought something I don't have to buy right now.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Can you clarify if you have fitted your new R/h control unit and the problem is still the same?
I was slightly confused by what you said when you said " the lights came on....choke ...turned the key then switched to engine on"
i may be me not understanding but how does the lights come on before you turn on the ignition switch?
it would be helpful if you clarify a "switch" eg. kill, ignition, starter,
as you state it could be many things and it needs tracking down before you buy anything
also I would expect a decently maintained gs to start much easer than what you are describing once you have put the choke on you should not have to "open the throttle" to start the bike in my experience.
there is a need to get out the multimeter and do some checks if you are not comfortable with that perhaps someone near could lend a hand.

 

[Brendan W]

You say "The switch controls moved not even a mm and my lights went out".
Was the switch stuck and which switch ?

 

[Steve]

No further light to shed on your electrical problem, but I might have a solution to your starting problem.

I kicked it for 4-5min (throttle open) and no start.

Why do you have the throttle open? When the carbs are cleaned and properly adjusted, you activate the "choke", turn the key ON, pull the clutch lever (unless that has been bypassed), press the starter button. In your case, you should not have to kick it more than two or three times. Notice that in the list of things to do, "turn the throttle" was NOT mentioned. That is because the "choke" system (notice the quote marks?) does not operate like an old-time automotive choke by blocking the intake, it uses an enrichment system that uses separate air and fuel ports to provide the richer mixture needed for starting. Opening the throttle will defeat that system, requiring you to keep kicking for 4-5 minutes.

.

 

[JayT]

@fastbysuzuki -Once again, I apologize for the lack of thorough details. I don't have the new R/H control yet. When I turn my key to the "On position" in the ignition, my speedo backlights and headlight come on. The only maintenance that I've done on the bike is taking the carbs off and clean out my tank from rust. The electrical side hasn't been covered yet. It looks as if I'll be starting on that today lol I appreciate your advice

 

[JayT]

You say "The switch controls moved not even a mm and my lights went out".
Was the switch stuck and which switch ?

The R/H control housing moved forward. Once that happened, the lights went out.

 

[JayT]

No further light to shed on your electrical problem, but I might have a solution to your starting problem.
Why do you have the throttle open? When the carbs are cleaned and properly adjusted, you activate the "choke", turn the key ON, pull the clutch lever (unless that has been bypassed), press the starter button. In your case, you should not have to kick it more than two or three times. Notice that in the list of things to do, "turn the throttle" was NOT mentioned. That is because the "choke" system (notice the quote marks?) does not operate like an old-time automotive choke by blocking the intake, it uses an enrichment system that uses separate air and fuel ports to provide the richer mixture needed for starting. Opening the throttle will defeat that system, requiring you to keep kicking for 4-5 minutes.

.

Thanks for the input! Gotta love feeling like a noob lol I appreciate your advice man.

 

[Guest]

sounds like you have multiple issues to address here. rust in the tank, eh? i predict a full carb cleaning is in your future. has anyone pointed you to basscliff's site? have you seen the top ten newbie mistakes thread? plenty in both of those to keep you busy, if you havent gotten that far yet.....

 

[JayT]

sounds like you have multiple issues to address here. rust in the tank, eh? i predict a full carb cleaning is in your future. has anyone pointed you to basscliff's site? have you seen the top ten newbie mistakes thread? plenty in both of those to keep you busy, if you havent gotten that far yet.....

Yeaaa quite a few things lined up! I spend solid time on Basscliff's Newbie List (especially since it continues to grow). I had the tank treated professionally in a shop. I took the carbs off and dipped them (wanted to sync them and that's when I ran into the ignition issue).

 

[Brendan W]

My main fuse keeps blowing out. If my right control "start engine" button doesn't work, could that be what's wrong?

If the button is out more than likely someone had a go at repairing the switch assembly. If they got it wrong and bits are floating around and or those orange/white wires are touching the bar or the metal part of the switch housing that could be your short.

 

[JayT]

An update to my starting issue--- I installed my new R/H controls and it struggled to start. When it finally started, it dies quickly after if I don't feather the throttle. Cylinder 2-3 are cold and 1-4 are blazing. When I tried to start it back up, my new battery is barely holding power. From what I've read, 1) I'm looking at taking the good ol' carbs off once again. 2) I'm in need of an R/R, stator, and new coils as well?

 

[dantodd]

I would take care of what you KNOW first. Get all cylinders firing first. Keep your battery up using charger until then. If the battery hasn't been destroyed it is possible it is just getting run down trying to start a bike on 2 cylinders.

You need air, fuel, and spark to run so find out which one if missing. When it's 2 and 3 naturally your first thought is the coil since that is the common bit so start there. If that's the problem you might not need to tear back into the carbs if you are confident you did the job right the first time.

Once you have all 4 firing see if the carbs are working properly. If they aren't then get them up to snuff.

Once the carbs are in order and the bike runs well with a charged battery do posplayer's charger system test and see what's what there.

Jumping around to too many systems can exacerbate problems.
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