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no starting, just clicking

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So the other day after i put the carbs back on the bike, i started it right up no problem, had it running for a minute or two then shut it down (The bike hadn't been started in weeks prior). but then when i went to start it again all i got was a clicking noise... no cranking just clicking. Ive been thinking that i needed to replace my battery as i dont know how old it is and i feel like after a few times of not getting the bike to start it would just lose power. I have ordered a new solenoid because i think that where the clicking was coming from. figured i would try there before heading to the starter. any thoughts on anything else that might be the issue?
 
Try jumping the solenoid if you do that and it starts then you probably have a bad solenoid. But if nothing happens it could be your starter.
 
The problem is not with the solenoid. The problem is that the battery has insufficient power to keep it engaged.

Before replacing the solenoid, check the battery. You already stated you don't know its condition, but a simple test with a voltmeter will tell you.

.
 
ok guys so i replaced the battery and the solenoid(since i had already purchased it) and still just clicking. before i replaced anything i tried starting it up, hadn't tried since i last wrote this. and it almost started but then went back to clicking. at one point the clicking came from the starter and now its coming from the solenoid... so im all confused. If i do pull the starter out what should i look for. and is it better to replace the whole thing or do a rebuildon it?
 
clean-up of the starter motor often helps.

Best is: Take it out, take it apart, clean the carbon dust out, a little grease on bearings but especiallly , inspect the brushes. Bench test it (as below) before putting it back in.

Starter motors commonly wear their brushes out. You can find a brush set online. Often that's the most they need...I can't say for how long though. I've never myself yet seen the 35 year old glue that holds the magnets fail, but I have seen it on other makes and one wonders if these also may all fall apart like cinderella at year 40!!

you can skip the take apart and first try it on a car battery as a preliminary, just to see if that's the problem per Starting The Bike.. ...sometimes, they sort of fall asleep from disuse and a kick is all they need. The case is "ground" and the bolt the wire attaches to is positive. Hold on tight. It'll spin right out of your hands if not held .

But even so, since you have it out and it's a bother to do , and if you are reasonably good at apart-and-together projects, you should "take it apart and clean it up". If the brushes are getting worn (being different lengths is often a clue-you can tell by looking close at how they spring towards commutator too-how much "room" is left) order new ones and put them in next rainy day.
 
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ok i think im going to pull the starter out, but it looks like there is something in the way, i think its the chain tensioner. can i just take that off or will oil start pouring out? and where is a good place to get a rebuild kit?
 
No oil will come out. Best to lock tensioner in place before removal. As far as I know, you'll need to remove carbs too to add to fun. Take pics of cable hookups- you might need them later!
 
Before you go through all that trouble, try something that is cheap and easy. :-k

Hopefully you have a test light (MUCH easier) or a voltmeter. Clip the test light lead (black meter lead) to the battery negative terminal. Not a chassis mount, the battery terminal. Touch the battery terminal of the starter solenoid, the light should come ON (voltmeter would show about 12 volts). Turn the ignition key ON, move your test light to the starter terminal of the solenoid, press the starter button, the light should come ON. If you can't remove the cover over the starter to access the starter terminal, poke your test light through the insulation as close as possible to the starter, press the starter button again. If it still comes on, touch your test light to the crankcase and push the button. You should NOT see the light come on. If it does, your engine is not grounded to the battery.

.
 
Steve said:
Before you go through all that trouble, try something that is cheap and easy. :-k

Hopefully you have a test light (MUCH easier) or a voltmeter. Clip the test light lead (black meter lead) to the battery negative terminal. Not a chassis mount, the battery terminal. Touch the battery terminal of the starter solenoid, the light should come ON (voltmeter would show about 12 volts). Turn the ignition key ON, move your test light to the starter terminal of the solenoid, press the starter button, the light should come ON. If you can't remove the cover over the starter to access the starter terminal, poke your test light through the insulation as close as possible to the starter, press the starter button again. If it still comes on, touch your test light to the crankcase and push the button. You should NOT see the light come on. If it does, your engine is not grounded to the battery.

.
Click to expand...

Thanks ill give this a try, i wanted to try this but couldnt find my test light until i had reassembled everything... figures right
 
tom203 said:
No oil will come out. Best to lock tensioner in place before removal. As far as I know, you'll need to remove carbs too to add to fun. Take pics of cable hookups- you might need them later!
Click to expand...

im not sure i fully understand what you mean by locking the tensioner in place? is there a write up on how to do this? i just got my stater reapir kit in today and want to get to taking out as soon as i can
 
You don't need to remove the carbs to get the tensioner and then starter out. By `locking in place' he is referring to the camchain tensioner pushrod (plunger). You loosen the 12mm nut, tighten the lock screw (to lock it), and then remove the tensioner. Once you've pulled/inspected/fixed and reinstalled the starter motor, to reinstall the tensioner you:

1. Loosen the lockscrew
2. Turn the large `knurled' nut ALL the way out while pushing the plunger IN. Hold in in and tighten the lockscrew.
3. Bolt it onto the engine.
4. Back out the lockscrew just until you hear/feel the plunger snap foward and then back it out another 1/8 - 1/4 turn.
5. Tighten up the lock nut holding the lockscrew in place.
 
1499361275055.jpg
ok so i loosen the nut and compress the spring and then put the nut back in place? what do you mean to bolt it to the engine?
 
Small correction here: :-k
sam000lee said:
Once you've pulled/inspected/fixed and reinstalled the starter motor, to reinstall the tensioner you:

1. Loosen the locknut
2. Turn the large `knurled' nut ALL the way out while pushing the plunger IN. Hold in in and tighten the setscrew.
3. Bolt it onto the engine.
4. Back out the setscrew just until you hear/feel the plunger snap foward.
4a. Turn the setscrew IN until it touches, THEN back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
5. Tighten up the lock nut holding the setscrew in place.
Click to expand...

.
 
Thanks Steve for setting the terminology straight. In Step 1 - I did mean `Loosen the setscrew' as it would have been tightened upon removal and you need to back it out in order to depress the plunger for reassembly.

SilentRaven said:
View attachment 51837
ok so i loosen the nut and compress the spring and then put the nut back in place? what do you mean to bolt it to the engine?
Click to expand...

Not the nut in the picture. On the other side of the tensioner there is a set screw, around which there is a locknut. To remove the tensioner, loosen the locknut and tighten the lockscrew. Then the tensioner comes off via three bolts to the cylinder. You don't have to do anything with the spring until you are reinstalling the tensioner.

By bolt it back to the engine I mean reattach it to the cylinder with the three bolts.
 
ok thats a bit clearer, makes sense now as i was looking at the wrong side... and its still pretty early.
 
thanks tom203. the article says to have the engine at top dead center, and i looked at the diagram on there, but my engine isnt quite the same as the two shown. it looks similar to the 'early electronic ignition' but doesnt have a "T" mark.... it does have the little window but not marks anywhere on the wheel
 
20170711_202148.jpg this is what im looking at, sorry its sideways. im thinking i need to line up the "dot" next to the center bolt with the small line next to the screw. just looking for verification on this before i precede
 
While it's best to have it at TDC , it's not required. Just tighten the slotted lock screw in place (to hold plunger) and remove tensioner . Follow the instructions on reseting and reinstalling it. Do not spin engine while it's out!
I have not seen that style of signal generator rotor with the hole in it.
 
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