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No torque wrench

  • Thread starter Thread starter C.V.
  • Start date Start date
C

C.V.

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I know they aren't that expensive, but i would like some opinions...
Do you think "good and tight" (ie. guessing) is close enough? I know the torque specs are there for a reason, but how many always torque to spec? How about for different applications? ie. reinstalling the rear wheel, or torquing the valve cover bolts? Just asking around for opinions...
 
C.V. said:
I know they aren't that expensive, but i would like some opinions...
Do you think "good and tight" (ie. guessing) is close enough? I know the torque specs are there for a reason, but how many always torque to spec? How about for different applications? ie. reinstalling the rear wheel, or torquing the valve cover bolts? Just asking around for opinions...
Click to expand...

Rear wheel...not so important. Tight there, is tight. Valve covers on the other hand, NEED to be torqued to spec and in the right sequence, in order to insure that the gasket is doing it's job and that you don't crack/bend the valve cover.
 
If I'm honest I only really use mine for tightening cylinder head nuts. You can do everything else by 'feel'.
 
Depends on how well calibrated your fingers are, outside of the engine most fasteners are not that critical. Pay attention to each and every fastener. If you are a clutz that does not know your own strength, a torque wrench is invaluable. Beam wrenches are cheap, plenty accurate enough. Clickers are easier to use but a cheap one might not be all that reliable, especially near the extremes of it's torque range. Use common sense even with a torque wrench.
 
Most inexpensive torque wrenches are accurate enough for what we do, but only when used between 15%-85% of their total range. I've calibrated several high-end ($300+) torque wrenches, and even they were pretty unreliable when used out of that 15-85 range.
 
A lot of backyard mechanics go by feel but that can often result in sheared bolts if you don't know your own strength. A lot of fasteners are only 10/15 or 20 ft/pounds ( I can't figure metric..what the hell's a Newton/meter?) and its easy to go way past that. Torque wrenches at least get you in the right ballpark.

With precision fasteners in the engine, torque wrenches are a must as stated.

Cheap enough and a good edition to the tool box.

My late dad ( an engineer) always said, " You may only use the tool once but always select the right tool for the job" Words that I live by and account for my 4 or 5 sets of everything. I've been buying and recieving tools as gifts since a teenager, I inherited my dad's tools, my wife's late husbands tools, her late fathers and late father in laws. So if forgetfull son takes and loses a tool ( does it everytime) I have backups galore.

Now father's days coming what do I need????

Cheers all,
Spyug.
 
I posted my thoughts on a torque wrench substitute before(search threads).
I don't own one or haven't used one since auto mechanics school 35 years ago.
I use the one, two, three, etc...finger method of tightening so I don't snap anything and you get a feel for how much pressure to turn and always pay attention to order of tightening. Snugging things down in proper sequence and gradually tightening to me is most important before the final "torquing".
I'm not saying that a torque wrench is unnecessary, but I've gotten along all these years without one.
Maybe someone can test their calibrated one against my "calibrated" fingers?
 
i torque every time to spec. unless i cant find the correct socket or i cant find the torque rating. then i do it by hand.
 
Torque wrenches that are accurate at very low settings (like the 15 INCH-pounds called for on the valve cover bolts with a RealGasket) are stupidly expensive and difficult to find.

So for these, I definitely have to guess based on gasket compression. I also make sure I have an understanding of how much pressure I'll have to put on the t-handle or wrench to equal the correct torque.

For everything inside the engine and cylinder head nuts, I definitely use a torque wrench. For case covers, I'll admit that I use a t-handle allen wrench and a calibrated wrist.

For brakes, wheels, etc. I generally use a torque wrench the first few times to get the feel of it, and my calibrated wrist after that. The specified torque settings are lower than one might imagine for 8mm and larger fasteners.

Using a torque wrench on 6mm and smaller fasteners is a great way to strip and break things -- very few commonly available torque wrenches are at all accurate at 7 foot-pounds. The Experienced Wrist has a much better feel for when threads are starting to bind on the small stuff.

One last bit I'd like to throw out there -- axle nuts do not need to be torqued to 2,000,000,000 foot-pounds. Crikey, why does everyone over-tighten these things until their eyeballs bleed?
 
A Newton is a measure of force, just like a pound. A Kilogram is a measure of mass, just like a Slug. That is why the english measurement system is so stupid, because a pound is entirely dependent on gravitational pull, not actual physical matter.

Anyways, I torque most bolts. If it's something like the fastener on the headlight, why bother. But if it's something that could be a safety issue (wheel falling off!) or a performance issue (head bolts), get out the torque wrench
 
spots25 said:
A Newton is a measure of force, just like a pound. A Kilogram is a measure of mass, just like a Slug. That is why the english measurement system is so stupid, because a pound is entirely dependent on gravitational pull, not actual physical matter.
Click to expand...
Then there is silly stuff like kg*m or kg/cm^2 that are specified in most metric manuals but make no sense.
 
Torque wrenches go on sale now and again, I would get one. My nice and tight(depending on bolt size and the feel of the tightening sequence) is pretty good, I don't break many and they don't come loose. But now my brother's nice and tight usually results in a broken bolt or stud.
Get a wrench.
 
I have recently had a few eye-opening tightening scenarios.
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I have recently purchased three torque wrenches from Harbor Freight. (left column, top three wrenches.) Although they look to be reasonably-priced in the link, two of them were actually on sale at $15, so I only have about $50 in the entire set.

I have started using them, especially since we were putting an engine together, but I have also used them to install brake rotors, caliper bolts, axles and other such stuff. I was rather surprised at how lightly some of the bolts got torqued. I have been doing them much tighter.
icon_redface.gif
 
p_s said:
Then there is silly stuff like kg*m or kg/cm^2 that are specified in most metric manuals but make no sense.
Click to expand...

a kg*m IS a Newton
a kg/cm^2 doesn't really make sense, if it were a N/m^2 it would be a Pascal (unit of pressure, like psi)
 
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