• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

(non)Charging system problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Does anyone else make the series type R/R besides shindengen? I'm just wondering, to expand my search.
I know posplayr has been a proponent lately of certain Compufire RR units. Seems to think they’re as good or better than the SH775. He’ll have to tell you which ones. Jim(posplayr) is the guy to follow on the electrical system here. Pay attention. You need to thoroughly clean up any corrosion in all terminals and replace any melted connectors or sketchy sections of wire with like gauge. Deoxit is great for cleaning up connections. I’ve also used solution of vinegar followed by solution of baking soda.
 
I know posplayr has been a proponent lately of certain Compufire RR units. Seems to think they?re as good or better than the SH775. He?ll have to tell you which ones. Jim(posplayr) is the guy to follow on the electrical system here. Pay attention. You need to thoroughly clean up any corrosion in all terminals and replace any melted connectors or sketchy sections of wire with like gauge. Deoxit is great for cleaning up connections. I?ve also used solution of vinegar followed by solution of baking soda.

I have liked the Compufire for sometime. Price wise the SH-775 has always been better when you could buy them for $30-$60 USD compared to $180-$215 USD for teh Compufire. But is there are unlabeled CF's for $45 then that is a slam dunk.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...u-Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install&highlight=Compufire
 
I finally got the title for the bike, so now I can start looking to spend money on it. Posplayr, you mention $45.00 unlabeled CF R/Rs, how do you find those and determine what they are if they are not labeled?
 
I finally got the title for the bike, so now I can start looking to spend money on it. Posplayr, you mention $45.00 unlabeled CF R/Rs, how do you find those and determine what they are if they are not labeled?

The seller states that is what they are. If you have an AC current ampo you can confirm the series operation by just looking at one of the R/R stator wires when you turn on and off the headlamps. With headlamps off the current should drop by 5 amps. A shunt R/R will do the opposite, current rises when the headlamp is off.

The case/connector is identical to the Compufire which is unique. The only thing missing is the label. There is a possibility it is someki dnof fake, but i woudl put that as a low probability (10-20%) . The item is listed as having the same part number as the Compufire. if you are worried contact he seller.


https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...2-3-Phase-Charging-System&highlight=compufire

Take a look they all look identical either over $180 or less than $40

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...13&_nkw=Compu-Fire+40A+55402+3-Phase&_sacat=0


Also notice than none of these have the original CF labels and they are all missing the large 40 Amp inline fuse
 
Last edited:
I ordered one of the cheap ones, is there any way to test it to see if it is a CF type and not a shunt type before installing it? I should receive it by 12/26.
 
I ordered one of the cheap ones, is there any way to test it to see if it is a CF type and not a shunt type before installing it? I should receive it by 12/26.


If you have an AC current clamp you can confirm the series operation by just looking at one of the R/R AC stator wires when you turn on and off the headlamps. With headlamps off the current should drop by 5 amps. A shunt R/R will do the opposite, current rises when the headlamp is off.

Sorry no it has to be operating either on a test stand of a bike. it doesn't really have to be mounted but it does need to be connected and grounded.

something like this. It does both AC and DC current with the clamp on.


https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multi...721MKXBC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8


Other might comment on something cheaper they know works. I have a tektronix 622A, but you can get something much cheaper.

https://www.newark.com/tektronix/a622/current-probe-50ma-to-100a-dc/dp/01F2474
 
Last edited:
So there's no way to test it without installing it first? I hate to do it twice, but I don't want to have a shunt type.
 
So there's no way to test it without installing it first? I hate to do it twice, but I don't want to have a shunt type.

Sorry no it has to be operating either on a test stand of a bike. it doesn't really have to be mounted but it does need to be connected and grounded.


The fall back is you pay $200 for the expensive ones but I doubt they are any different.
 
I got the new ebay reg/rec today. It looks nice. It has markings on it, LP2, or UP2. If it's warm enough, I may try and hook it up this weekend.reg rec.jpg
 
... something like this. It does both AC and DC current with the clamp on.
https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multi...721MKXBC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

That is one heck of a deal for an AC/DC clamp-on meter. :encouragement:

Until quite recently, to get a clamp meter with DC amps, you had to spend over $100. I found one several years ago for $80, so I snatched it up. About a year ago, I saw an "introductory offer" posted on another forum that I visit, and got one for about $20. That same meter is now offered at the "reduced" price of $60. Accuracy is a bit less than I like, but comparisons with my calibrated meters at work at least let me know what to use for a correction factor.

.
 
I got the new ebay reg/rec today. It looks nice. It has markings on it, LP2, or UP2. If it's warm enough, I may try and hook it up this weekend.View attachment 59773

Can you post more pictures please? Include the bottom and attached wires. If there are anymore marking please provide that as well.

I've never seen the LP2/UP2 before.
 
Thanks for posting these pictures.

Very interesting. That housing is a close approximation but they obviously did not try to do an exact copy of the compufire. For example there are 15 fins on this knock-off and only 14 fins on the original.

It would be very interesting to see how it performs with a current clamp.
If you don't have one , you might get an indication from temperature. The Series generally stay pretty cool (less than 100-110 degF) where as a shunt might get up to closer to 140 degF

Here is a picture of a real CF.


CompufireBottom.jpg
 
I have a clamp meter, when I get it installed, I will take some measurements.
 
Back
Top