(non)Charging system problem

[Guest]

I haven't got it installed yet. One of the screws holding the battery box in is seized, and is fighting me getting it loose. GRRRR! Now the weather has gotten cold again so I probably won't get back to it this weekend.

 

[Guest]

Finally some nice weather on the weekend and I got the seized screw out. Removed the R/R and it looks fried.

 

[posplayr]

Finally some nice weather on the weekend and I got the seized screw out. Removed the R/R and it looks fried.View attachment 60432

The stator will not look much better.

 

[Guest]

That's not encouraging. Are there any readings I can take before opening it up?

 

[posplayr]

That's not encouraging. Are there any readings I can take before opening it up?

Stator pages Phase B
Leg to leg and leg to ground at 5K RPM


https://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

 

[posplayr]

It would be real nice to get an update to close out this thread.

 

[Guest]

Sorry, I have been being lazy, plus the weather hasn't cooperated. I opened up the generator cover this week to replace the stator. A previous owner had glued the gasket on, so I have a big job cleaning both surfaces, then I will get the stator and r/r mounted and wired up. The R/R is considerably larger than the one that was on it, so I'm not sure where it will mount. I am not quick with this stuff, I have a low threshold for frustration, so I walk away before I break things.

 

[Guest]

OK, I finally got everything installed on my 850. Ebay r/r, new AGM battery, and caltric stator.
key off 12.7v
key on 10 sec 12.4v
idle fluctuates 12.8-13.2v
2500 rpms fluctuates between 13.5-14.4v
5000 rpms 14.8-15.2v
key off 12.8v
The readings seem to be right about where I want them. The r/r was cool to the touch after about 5 minutes being turned off.
All readings coming from the voltmeter pictured, wired to the battery.

 

[posplayr]

OK, I finally got everything installed on my 850. Ebay r/r, new AGM battery, and caltric stator.
key off 12.7v
key on 10 sec 12.4v
idle fluctuates 12.8-13.2v
2500 rpms fluctuates between 13.5-14.4v
5000 rpms 14.8-15.2v
key off 12.8v
The readings seem to be right about where I want them. The r/r was cool to the touch after about 5 minutes being turned off.
All readings coming from the voltmeter pictured, wired to the battery.View attachment 61109

Given that the variation is present at idle when the R/R is not even regulating, then whatever the noise is, the meter is responding to it. I suspect the cheapo volt meter is just susceptible to charging noise.

Averaging the data, it suggests that

idle 13.0V
2500 RPM 13.95V
5000 RPM 15.0V

It is strange that there are multiple reports of charging voltages being well above 14.5V from the SH-775 and now even this clone CF?

The manual says up to 15.5V is OK, but that is not that great from the batteries. 15.0V is the extreme at which point you begin to start boiling your battery.

Did you ever do the current clamp tests to see if it is a series R/R?


Put a clamp on one leg of the stator and see if the current goes down with lights going on (this means series). Pull the headlamp fuse. If you can't unplug or turn off the headlamp.

 

[Guest]

It spikes quickly above 15v, but while I am riding it stays in the mid to high 14v. It may be the meter. It's a cheapie, I got it to plug my phone in and to monitor the system. I am most concerned if it quits altogether. I'm happy to get it on the road, I've put about 350 miles on it since Tuesday.

 

[posplayr]

It spikes quickly above 15v, but while I am riding it stays in the mid to high 14v. It may be the meter. It's a cheapie, I got it to plug my phone in and to monitor the system. I am most concerned if it quits altogether. I'm happy to get it on the road, I've put about 350 miles on it since Tuesday.

These R/R's are pretty nosiy (even the good ones) and that digital voltmeter is a pretty slow sampling meter which means it tends to not average as much to attenuate the noise.

You can do an external analog filter on the the voltage to the meter using a resistor, diode, and a capacitor.

 

[Guest]

I'm not too concerned if it jumps around, as long as it stays between 13v and 16v while I'm riding it's fineIf it goes too low or too high while I'm riding then it will alert me to a problem.

 

[posplayr]

I'm not too concerned if it jumps around, as long as it stays between 13v and 16v while I'm riding it's fineIf it goes too low or too high while I'm riding then it will alert me to a problem.

If it is jumping between 13 to 16 then you won't be able to figure out what is going on unless you plan on just watching the meter instead of the road. You would be better off with an analog VDO voltmeter.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/VDO-VISI...4yw4ADSxC3Sv6Rb8bG1XA344_3wFfCMxoCAOQQAvD_BwE

 

[posplayr]

Again are you planning of measuring the current?

 

[Guest]

This is an excellent thread. The simple pic with illustration I saw in multiple other threads (by Nessism and posplayr) is a HUGE help. But even so my GS1100E reg has a green wire that I dont see on the upgrade alternative. I am EXCELLENT with mechanical, body repair and prep even carb cleaning and some tuning but am awful with electrical problem diagnosis. I have not done the upgrade for one simple fact. (And I may get eviscerated for it) I am intimidated by installing a regulator/Rectifier that is not plug and play. When wire colors do not match or wire quantities dont match I get real nervous (nervous Ill damage something).

 

[Guest]

On mine, at least, there are 3 wires from the stator, all yellow. There are 3 wires on the r/r on one end. Connect them together, it doesn't matter which to which. The last 2 wires on the r/r are power and ground. My power had a red band on it, The ground is just black. I was nervous about it, but it actually is easy.

 

[Guest]

Thanks GS850Mike. I tested AC voltage from my stator. At 4500rpm I read 79 volts. All three tests. It passed the ohm test as well as the ground to engine case test. I did bench test my voltage regulator last week using a drop down chart in the suzuki service manual and if I did that correctly it failed severa testsl. So it looks like i will upgrade. I dont want to risk buying a fraudulent copy of the SSH775 so I am willing to spend the $190? plus for the real deal.

 

[posplayr]

Thanks GS850Mike. I tested AC voltage from my stator. At 4500rpm I read 79 volts. All three tests. It passed the ohm test as well as the ground to engine case test. I did bench test my voltage regulator last week using a drop down chart in the suzuki service manual and if I did that correctly it failed severa testsl. So it looks like i will upgrade. I dont want to risk buying a fraudulent copy of the SSH775 so I am willing to spend the $190? plus for the real deal.

Do you even have a problem? Did you do a Quick test?

 

[Guest]

Do you even have a problem? Did you do a Quick test?
Yes. Key off battery 12.5v. Voltage drop when i turn on key is .50 volt. Bike idle 12.2. 2500rpm 12.6 volts and at 5000rpm 12.6 volts. The regulator and stator are said to have been replaced by prev owner with Rick units in 2015 but it is what it is. The regulator does look like the plug and play unit From Ricks which is identical to the OEM.

 

[Grimly]

Thanks GS850Mike. I tested AC voltage from my stator. At 4500rpm I read 79 volts. All three tests. It passed the ohm test as well as the ground to engine case test. I did bench test my voltage regulator last week using a drop down chart in the suzuki service manual and if I did that correctly it failed severa testsl. So it looks like i will upgrade. I dont want to risk buying a fraudulent copy of the SSH775 so I am willing to spend the $190? plus for the real deal.

A good ebay source of used genuine SH775s for a decent price is powersportsnation. I've had one from him, as have several others on here. So far, I don't recall any instances of failures of used SH775s.