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Noob GS1000G stator replacement question

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigD
  • Start date Start date
B

BigD

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I own a 1980 GS1000G. I have a charging issue that I have troubleshot down to the stator being bad. It is only outputting 6 volts. I am getting ready to swap the part and I just wanted to know if I had to drain the engine oil prior to removing the case cover. I assume it is a dry function being electrical and such, just need to know any precautions I need to use.
 
On the 850 it isn't necessary to drain the oil. It can be done by lifting one side of the main stand on a piece of 4x2. The stator runs wet.
The bike will be very precarious in this position and I shouldn't be doing it :)
If you do try this tie the bike so it can't fall. I don't do that either.
Best practice would be to drain the oil as any apprentice would be told.
Where and how did you measure this 6 Volts ?
 
Brendan W said:
On the 850 it isn't necessary to drain the oil. It can be done by lifting one side of the main stand on a piece of 4x2. The stator runs wet.
The bike will be very precarious in this position and I shouldn't be doing it :)
If you do try this tie the bike so it can't fall. I don't do that either.
Best practice would be to drain the oil as any apprentice would be told.
Where and how did you measure this 6 Volts ?
Click to expand...
I measured it at the plugs coming off the stator. So there will be oil in the case? I might as well drain it to be on the safe side. Thanks for the input.
 
No need to drain the oil, it is plenty stable on a single piece of 2x4. When I get home, I can post a picture.

Just to be sure, those 6 volts you measured were AC volts? Measured from one wire to another (and another, and another)?

You need to do at least THREE measurements there. Arbitrarily label your wires "A", "B" and "C". You need to measure output with your meter leads on A&B, B&C, then A&C. It is also good to check from A to ground, B to ground and C to ground, those three should show ZERO volts (also AC).

.
 
Steve got me started on the 4x2 thing. It works. My insurance requires I issue disclaimers.
I would like you to be sure of your stator diagnosis before opening the cover. Any more details about symptoms, measurements etc ?
 
No need to drain the oil or fart around with lumber scraps.

Put the bike on the centerstand. Put some foil over the frame and pipe if you're fussy, put a drain pan underneath, and have at it. Maybe two ounces of oil will come out.


But yeah, first back up and test the stator correctly as Steve says. "Stator putting out six volts" only tells us there's something wrong with the testing method.
 
Thank you for all the replies. I checked the voltage (AC) to each of the connectors as described (a-b b-c and a-c) while the bike was running. I also checked that nothing grounding out. My buddy was there to help, he's an electrician (aircraft) and he flips bikes on the side. I am glad to know of the method of getting to this without draining it and will be trying it that way. What a great bunch you are, everyone has been exceedingly helpful! Thanks!
 
OK here are the pics that were promised:

IMG_7677.jpg


IMG_7679.jpg


.
 
Ok, so I got the stator swapped out checked the voltage real quick. I'm getting 12vac. So I took about a 25 minute ride. My headlight is still dim but o was trying to see if my charging issue is taken care of. I checked again and got 12vac again. So my charging issue is fine. Now I am going to change the regulator/rectifier and hopefully solve the low voltage issue.
 
The stators and r/r units on these machines have a habit of taking each other out. You may have a better stator in there now but the old r/r is waiting to have a go at it. I suggest you find Posplayr's sig and read the charging system health stuff in his sig and do the tests methodically, recording at each step. It's not rocket science you can save yourself a whole bunch of trouble following his advice.
The electrical system is the nerve system of the bike and until it's sorted you can end up chasing phantom running issues. Not wanting to sound preachy but it would be a shame to roast the new stator.
 
Brendan W, It's time for one of us to write up a permanent sticky on this subject vetted by posplayr. From your intro on this, I suggest it is you, including all variations, Series R/R's and bike model installations and methods. Single point grounds, pictures, the whole nine yards. Perhaps a joint project. The thousands of posts on this subject are a constant revisiting of the same old thing and phenomenal waste of resources handing the baton of information from member to member, whoever is willing to run with it at the time. Something up there well written so anyone can follow the directions would free a lot of time up for other important less discussed topics. What do you think?
 
OldVet66 said:
Brendan W, It's time for one of us to write up a permanent sticky on this subject vetted by posplayr. From your intro on this, I suggest it is you, including all variations, Series R/R's and bike model installations and methods. Single point grounds, pictures, the whole nine yards. Perhaps a joint project. The thousands of posts on this subject are a constant revisiting of the same old thing and phenomenal waste of resources handing the baton of information from member to member, whoever is willing to run with it at the time. Something up there well written so anyone can follow the directions would free a lot of time up for other important less discussed topics. What do you think?
Click to expand...

Having thought about this and consulted ' Dodging Responsibility for Dummies ' , I think I could well fall into a trap of creating another layer of documentation over what is already a collection of good documents and create more confusion and headaches for all concerned updating them.
It's quite true that the same issues come up again and again. I imagine that after a few thousand the temptation to issue one liners like, RTFM, would be great. Hopefully I'm a ways off that point.
I'm sure that at the beginning I did the same not realising just how much stuff is here. In fact I'll probably do it again. Everybody would like the quick silver bullet fix if available. Takes a while to settle into a rhythm of research, plan, execute.
Thank you for your vote of confidence in any case.
 
" You may have a better stator in there now but the old r/r is waiting to have a go at it."

ha, ha
 
I liked the intro on your post, cut to the chase. Something ain't working, I thought perhaps we could do better and make it work. Keep thinking on it if you would. I think tom203 might agree.
 
Last edited:
BigD said:
I own a 1980 GS1000G. I have a charging issue that I have troubleshot down to the stator being bad. It is only outputting 6 volts. I am getting ready to swap the part and I just wanted to know if I had to drain the engine oil prior to removing the case cover. I assume it is a dry function being electrical and such, just need to know any precautions I need to use.
Click to expand...


Do yourself a favor and read the stator papers. This is your best chance for success. It is found at the bottom of this site's homepage.
 
BigD said:
Ok, so I got the stator swapped out checked the voltage real quick. I'm getting 12vac. So I took about a 25 minute ride.
Click to expand...
Something is definitely WRONG here. A brand-new stator is only giving you 12 volts? And you took it for a ride?

I will have to check one of my bikes, but I don't ever remember seeing only 12 volts out of a stator, even at idle.

With a previous post, I tried to make sure you were checking the pairs properly, now I guess I will have to stop assuming and ask you directly ... are you holding the engine at 5000 RPM? We need to reduce the number of variables here. The factory manual calls for that speed, all of the testing that we ask for also assumes that speed is used. Stator output is directly related to engine speed, so please use that engine speed.

If you have read any of the manuals or tutorials on this subject, you should know that the stator output should be in the 75-90 VAC range. You state that you had 12 volts, "So I took about a 25 minute ride." Knowing that the output is about 1/6 of what is needed, you decided to take it out for a ride?

My interest in supporting this project could be fading rapidly. :oops:

.
 
You might also add that the stator AC output measurements are performed with the stator disconnected from the R/R. I've also seen a few 1980 stators that are 12 pole v/s 18 pole. Seems like 1980 was a transition year. If the wrong stator is installed then you'll have little to no output.

Yep, I'm back!!!
 
Steve said:
Something is definitely WRONG here. A brand-new stator is only giving you 12 volts? And you took it for a ride?

I will have to check one of my bikes, but I don't ever remember seeing only 12 volts out of a stator, even at idle.

With a previous post, I tried to make sure you were checking the pairs properly, now I guess I will have to stop assuming and ask you directly ... are you holding the engine at 5000 RPM? We need to reduce the number of variables here. The factory manual calls for that speed, all of the testing that we ask for also assumes that speed is used. Stator output is directly related to engine speed, so please use that engine speed.

If you have read any of the manuals or tutorials on this subject, you should know that the stator output should be in the 75-90 VAC range. You state that you had 12 volts, "So I took about a 25 minute ride." Knowing that the output is about 1/6 of what is needed, you decided to take it out for a ride?

My interest in supporting this project could be fading rapidly. :oops:

.
Click to expand...

Well I appreciate the input, but I am TDY in Vegas right now so I don't have access to many tools. I am trying to really just get this thing on the road reliably by going after common problems. It didn't work so now the bike is just going on to a trailer and taken home. I don't have my manuals and I didn't have much time to work on it. The bike still isn't charging and I was able to limp it back to base. I will be digging into this issue once I get home.
 
Ok, I finally got time to work on the bike. The bike has been running on battery power instead of stator power. I am getting only 2.5 vac from checking the 3 wires in between the r/r and stator and I am also getting 2.5 vac to ground on all the wires. I have changed the stator and I changed the r/r. I would have to guess that perhaps the stator is grounding against it's mount on the case cover, but I'm not sure where should start in chasing down the the power to ground issue. I checked the voltage coming off of the battery at 12vdc before I started, 11.5 when running, and no change at 2,500 or 5,000 rpm.
 
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