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Noob GS1000G stator replacement question

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigD
  • Start date Start date
I also found these wires that are not connected to anything. soo... that's probably worth addressing too.IMG_20151019_181846.jpg
 
BigD said:
Ok, I finally got time to work on the bike. The bike has been running on battery power instead of stator power. I am getting only 2.5 vac from checking the 3 wires in between the r/r and stator and I am also getting 2.5 vac to ground on all the wires. I have changed the stator and I changed the r/r. I would have to guess that perhaps the stator is grounding against it's mount on the case cover, but I'm not sure where should start in chasing down the the power to ground issue. I checked the voltage coming off of the battery at 12vdc before I started, 11.5 when running, and no change at 2,500 or 5,000 rpm.
Click to expand...
If you think about it, you will probably amaze your self how little trouble it was to do those measurements and home much more you know about what is going on.
 
Is there any common occurrence that would cause it to ground out like that?
 
BigD said:
Is there any common occurrence that would cause it to ground out like that?
Click to expand...

The most common seems to be inside of the stator cover where the wires "should be" carefully routed through a guard.
 
Those two wires are the ones that loop one of the stator phases through the headlight bucket and back. No need to have them connected to anything.

Just as a sanity check, disconnect the three yellow stator wires from the R/R and measure resistance between each wire going to the stator to ground. If they don't read as open, then you have a short between the one of the wires and the case or the winding insulation has failed. As posplayr said, the most common short (besides a bad stator itself) is at the point where the stator goes into the wire guard that's screwed down to the inside of the stator cover. It keeps the wires out of the rotating assembly.

One other thing that might be in play here... 1980 was a transition year for stators going from 12 to 18 pole. I've seen some 12 pole units and 18 pole units during that year on 1000's. If you have the wrong stator/flywheel assembly then you will not get any output from the stator.
 
Last edited:
JTGS850GL said:
Those two wires are the ones that loop one of the stator phases through the headlight bucket and back. No need to have them connected to anything.

Just as a sanity check, disconnect the three yellow stator wires from the R/R and measure resistance between each wire going to the stator to ground. If they don't read as open, then you have a short between the one of the wires and the case or the winding insulation has failed. As posplayr said, the most common short (besides a bad stator itself) is at the point where the stator goes into the wire guard that's screwed down to the inside of the stator cover. It keeps the wires out of the rotating assembly.

One other thing that might be in play here... 1980 was a transition year for stators going from 12 to 18 pole. I've seen some 12 pole units and 18 pole units during that year on 1000's. If you have the wrong stator/flywheel assembly then you will not get any output from the stator.
Click to expand...

Spot on assessment. I checked for continuity and got it across all three wires. I will be pulling the cover tomorrow hopefully. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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