Noob OWNER '82 gs650GL - Austin, TX

[rukusmaximus]

Hello from Austin, Texas !
My name is Michael and a more formal intorduction can be found in the NEW Members area.

I'm starting this thread to document my first motorcycle rebuild/restoration on my '82 GS6050GL (you see the album in my signature or go here)
I'd love to get connected with GS owners in the Central Texas area - feel free to send me a message!

I'll do my best to document efficiently & will provide pics to illustrate when necessary--hopefully it'll help others someday.

 

[Brendan W]

Hi bignoise and Welcome. This if you haven't already been directed there http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
Those are the after pictures we're looking at, right ?

 

[Gorminrider]

Yes,looks pretty good to start! Though I see you are missing one of the rubber cooling-fin pads and one sidecover is from a different year(?)

part 18 here:
http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3fd93f8700230d8b4da68/cylinder-head

How does it run? I hope you won't start cutting it up before you ride it.

 

[rukusmaximus]

'82 650GL - New baby comes home

'82 650GL - New baby comes home

**[SEE BELOW FOR IMAGES]

SEPT 2016
Background notes:

• PO said he got it from a guy that was starting it as a cafe racer build but it looks like he stopped at the handlebar swap.
• PO used it as his daily commute to his job in the city for "Two, maybe 3 months." (Distance = 34 miles one way)
• He stopped riding when we were having lots of rain storms.
• PO claims: Tried to fire it up a few weeks after and she idle but wouldn't run unless choke engaged.
• PO informed me that exhaust 4 was cold.

Inspection notes:

• Chrome still in decent shape
  
• Obvious signs of a spill (damage consistent on right side)
  
• Decent enough tires
  
• No visible frame modifications
  
• Still had original bill of sale from 1982
  

We drained the floats & gas tank and put in some fresh gas.
Got her running. I invited a daredevil friend to ride it home for me (not really expecting it to make it)

She made it home. (I now realize riding it that far was stupid and probably created a fuel wash event :hororr
Lucky she didn't lock up. Karma must be good.

First Ride Notes (according to my experienced rider):

• Wouldn't go past 50mph
• Bogs in mid-range RPM
• Can feel drops of fluid splattering on legs/knees
• Throttle opens/ accelerates when steering
• Brakes felt OK
• Instrument cluster and lights are operational

^Right Side






^Spill-damaged carb (#4) w/ crusty boot




^Damage on Fuel Tank




^Head


There are tons of other photos here:
Here's a video of what she sounds like idling after cold start (day after the 35 mile home):

Here's a video of inconsistent idling (probably caused by mis-route in throttle cable?)


First things first: pull out airbox/carbs and begin cleaning

(I'll post about the mayhem I found in the next thread)

 

[rukusmaximus]

Thanks Brendan!

Yes, very familiar with BikeCliff's site--actually read thru his "10 mistakes" first.
I wouldn't have dared to try working on my first bike without the information on there (and here)

Those pictures are from the day after I got it home-- she's now missing all intake and exhaust elements. (cleaning, assessing damage/replacing)

 

[rukusmaximus]

Missing fin pad

Missing fin pad

Yes,looks pretty good to start! Though I see you are missing one of the rubber cooling-fin pads and one sidecover is from a different year(?)
How does it run? I hope you won't start cutting it up before you ride it.

Thanks for the info Gorminrider -- yeah, looks like left side cover is from another model --
But I didn't realize I might be missing a fin pad.--I'll look into it-- what their purpose anyway?

I talk about the first run in a thread below

 

[rukusmaximus]

'82 650GL - Breakdown: Phase 1

'82 650GL - Breakdown: Phase 1

Ok, before I begin, I realize this project isn't as crazy as some of yours -- I'm not envious of some of the things I've seen --
But please keep in mind I purchased this to learn more about bikes before I decide to design my own custom build in the future.

She might look pretty good on the outside, but after getting inside, I can see the PO wasn't too interested in upkeep.


KNOWN ISSUES:

• exhaust pipe temps inconsistent (1 is hot, 2 is less hot, 3/4 cold)
• vacuum leaks: airbox, manifold boots, and exhaust 3 is smoking at the head

CARB REMOVAL

• #1-3 seem "normal" -- needles/jets ok and are OEM or same spec as Service Manual/Clymers
• #4 more rusty, gunk than others.
• #4 has small crack in body near diaphram cover and near float bowl gasket.
• Boots to manifold are cracked/rotted for sure.
• One float was pitted and cracked

AIRBOX:

• rubber boots free of cracks/rot
• boots not correctly installed (metal shims were loose inside airbox)
• airbox had about an ounce of gas inside (with a height line showing it had more at one point)
• foam filter was ripped up and gummy
• airbox seal is GOOD

FUEL TANK

• NO leaks at petcock
• no rust inside
• throttle and choke cables routed bad--tight and little tank clearance.
• fuel filter needed replacement

Battery fully charged and less than 500 mile old. (according to PO)

PROCESS
Started Carb Dip as per BikeCliff - 24-hour dips
scrubbing gunk from electrical/cleaning connections
minor frame cleaning


ON ORDER:

• O-ring/allen bolt hardware set from our trusted friend here on GSResources
• Intake boots
• New float
• valve tool (for next job)
• Air/Oil filters (OEM STYLE)
• Replacement fuel/vacuum lines
• in-line fuel filter
• torque wrench/allen socket set
• Stainless Steel button type allen hardware to have on hand.

Reading an re-reading Valve Clearance Procedure.

Question: Should I buy a compression gauge and a Carb Sync Tool?

 

[Brendan W]

But I didn't realize I might be missing a fin pad.--I'll look into it-- what their purpose anyway?

Their main purpose was to cause people to scratch their heads thirty years in the future

 

[Guest]

Maybe the head made a whistling noise at speed, and the rubber pads stopped that? I'm just guessing, and really have no clue.

 

[Brendan W]

Saw a thread here a while back talking about their being a hangover from Suzuki's two stroke, tinny sounding, heritage. Think the consensus was that if they made a difference no one could hear it.

 

[rukusmaximus]

Maybe the head made a whistling noise at speed, and the rubber pads stopped that? I'm just guessing, and really have no clue.

I'm an audio engineer by trade (and currently working on another degree in design)--and here's my two cents, essentially banking off @Deuce:

Similar to others, I think they are there to assist in noise control.
While sound doesn't necessarily change the density of air, a low frequency source has a strong enough waveform to still have an affect on pressure. These rubber things help keep the fins from vibrating along with engine / road vibrations, to prevent additional sources of air pressure fluctuations for the air intake systems.

Being that the engine performance relies on CV carbs, which, in turn, rely on a constant velocity of incoming air--intake may be affected if engine vibration creates a frequency low enough to alter pressure around it.
(Which is probably why pods with CV carbs are such a pain to tune--)
the inconsistent velocity caused by the absence of an control unit (air box) in turn causes inconsistencies in performance of carbs---tack on engine noise that alters pressure plus heat (from engine) that alters density, you get unhappy carbbys.

or, they could be there to prevent damage from shipping...
either way--useful little things, but probably not noticeable if they're missing.

 

[Guest]

Hi Michael,

Nice looking bike you've got there! I restored a 1981 GS650GL in similar condition a couple of years ago. I created a blog to document the restoration process - check out www.kevinsinn.com. Maybe you'll see something that will help with your restoration.

Good luck! You've definitely come to the right place. The folks around here are awesome and have a wealth of knowledge to share.

Cheers!
K

 

[Brendan W]

Still trying to figure what happened to the #4 carburettor.
It looks like it was dragged behind a truck for 100 yards.
Can't see it being on the bike when it happened.
It's almost like collateral damage from a cutting tool.

 

[rukusmaximus]

Hi Michael,

Nice looking bike you've got there! I restored a 1981 GS650GL in similar condition a couple of years ago. I created a blog to document the restoration process - check out www.kevinsinn.com. Maybe you'll see something that will help with your restoration.

Good luck! You've definitely come to the right place. The folks around here are awesome and have a wealth of knowledge to share.

Cheers!
K

Hey thanks @Skinner! I love the way you organized the site. I'll definitely bookmark it.

 

[rukusmaximus]

Still trying to figure what happened to the #4 carburettor.
It looks like it was dragged behind a truck for 100 yards.
Can't see it being on the bike when it happened.
It's almost like collateral damage from a cutting tool.

Yeah dunno.. it cleaned up just fine, except for the crack -- High Heat JB Weld is currently curing--going to see if it holds soon.

I really think the bike may have been dropped (because of the small fractures near float bowl AND diaphram..? but hmm.. i wonder what the PO could have been cutting IF it's collateral damage from that.

 

[rukusmaximus]

Coil Routing / Valve cover removal/ Extra Filter oil

Coil Routing / Valve cover removal/ Extra Filter oil

One thing I forgot to mention that I found BEFORE I started pulling my carbs was that I noticed the PO had the following coil/fire configuration:
1-2 3-4 or what is 1-3 2-4 ??..damn.. I can't remember which--- at any rate--it wasn't spec..
I thought to myself, "This might be why he was getting cold pipes?"

So I swapped for new plugs and re-routed:
1-4 2-3 (I think thats right) -- my question is: Aside from sloppy routing, why would someone change the coil config?? is there an electrical work-around I've missed?

Anyway--
Cold started fine.
White "smoke" seemed to be coming from exhaust (at the head and tail).
It wasn't heavy smoke--so I let her idle to see if it was just condensation from burning out whatever moisture was retained from the pistons that weren't firing before..
I let her idle for about 5 minutes and it cleared.
And I had 4 hot pipes instead of 2/3 (ish)

But being that I didn't have a compression gauge, all I could do was cross my fingers and hope I didn't cause bad wear.

Cool.. At least I know things are moving in there, I guess.

• Carbs have been dipped, brushed, blown. Spic and Span... (still crossing my figures my JB Weld on #4 holds)
• New o-rings all around.
• new boots are in
• Still waiting on replacement floats

My assembly table currently looks like this:





On a side note:
I ordered some No-Toil Air Filter Cleaner/Oil : http://www.bikebandit.com/manuals-t...ycle-chemicals/no-toil-air-filter-oil-cleaner
And I was sent a WHOLE case instead!!!

I cross-checked my order, payment, and their inventory code---sure enough--all was right!
Customer Service didn't really seem to care or even want to trace where the mistake happened -
So now I have a case of this stuff -- i'll push it out cheap if you want some.

--
CURRENT STATE
Took my valve cover off yesterday (after lots of sweating and wiggling and cursing)
Gasket for cover and breather are toast (I wasn't hoping to keep them anyway)

VALVE COVER INSPECTION

• Bolts that came from the front side of cover showed heat damage/rust (see photos below)
• Bolts that come from Left Rear side of cover had oil on threads. (see photos)
• Pools of oil on intake side of uh.under the uh..camshaft? (I'm not sure what that area is called)

​
Should I be concerned about the little oil pool?
And should I swapped these OEM bolts for some SS allens?

**I'm sure I'm due for new seals and lapping but I'm not sure I want to get into that can of worms right now.
I know, I know-- might as well if I'm almost halfway into the cylinder...but I really just want to get things back to together for a compression check

**Any advice? She was running one-legged before...could have done some damage..I'm gonna replace seals and lap eventually-- But I don't want to if it isn't vital at this stage.
But I'm willing to hear any experiences and tips. Please and thank you.

Also chiseled out the old exhaust gaskets at the head -- had interesting indentations from heat/pressure I'm assuming. They look drastically different than the replacements I got...which were smooth.



Heat damaged bolt from valve cover



small pool of oil, intake side





I'm guessing I need to end plugs too?

I know I'm going to stick to paper-type gaskets..
But I don't know a thing about plugs -- is there anything I need to watch out for?

Next up is Valve Clearance -- I'm at the edge of my seat.


Thanks for all the suggestions and the support folks!

--Michael

 

[Brendan W]

Firing order. Never attribute to intent that which can adequately be explained by stupidity.
Pools of oil in the corners is quite normal.
I have reused the endcaps with a bit of sealer three or four times. Pushing my luck a bit. Probably going to need new next time. I reversed them last time. Someone said it could reduce the cam walk noise a bit.

 

[rukusmaximus]

Valve Shim Clearance Results

Valve Shim Clearance Results

Due to a recent promotion at work, I haven't had much time to work on my bike during the last couple weeks.
My schedule was thrown for a loop and it took a bit of time to get it smoothed out.
It came at good time anyway - I was at a stopping point -- was waiting for gaskets and new tools to arrive.

Today I finally had some time to fiddle around so valve clearances were checked.
And re-checked-
Then rechecked.

All looks good on the Exhaust side, but on the intake side #2,3,&4 had clearances below .02mm
Clearances and Shim size are as follows: () indicates caliper measurement

EXHAUST | SHIM SIZE
.05 .05 .07 .05 | 2.60x 2.65 2.65 2.65
.05 .02 .02 .02 | 2.65 2.75 2.7? (2.77) 2.75x
INTAKE

I'll admit, it took me something like an hour just to figure out how to remove the shims!!
I used the worksheet graciously provided by Steve and I entered the numbers indicated on the shim.
**I also used digital calipers to verify and all came within +/-.01 mm of the stated number on the shim.

I calculated moving shims around to see if I could make something happen but I don't have enough variation in terms of sizes.
No way am I order a whole shim kit--seems like overkill right now since I only have one bike and don't plan on building another for a couple years..
So at this point, I need to order, trade for 3 shims
2.70 x 1
2.72 x 2

I remember reading about a GSR Forum member that made shims?? I could be wrong.
I'll surely shop around for a decent deal online but if anyone has a pointer or two, I'd love to hear it.

Depending on when I can get said shims--I may or may not dig deeper into the head to check things out -- but I'd rather wait until it gets cold (December/Jan)..It'll give me something to do..

That's all for now.
Thanks in advance for any scoops for shims

 

[rukusmaximus]

I found the Shim Club - I guess I'll be good on shims -- so disregard my inquiries.

To save tedious entries, I'll update after I get my first compression readings.