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not gs...how to clean engine internals without disassembly?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
hi guys.

while working on my wife's new bike, i had the opportunity to take off the side cover and peer into the crankcase, and, well, shiny and new it ain't. is there anything i can do to freshen things up in there without taking it apart? i plan on running some seafoam in the oil for a bit then do a few oil changes, but apart from that....any ideas? thanks!

btw, the bike is a 1967 honda dream with a centrifugal oil cleaner that, while you can get it out through the oil cleaner access, to put it back in you have to remove the engine side case. Ha! love these old bikes.
 
btw again, i would ask this in the dream forum, but, frankly, it doesnt hold a candle to the gsr for knowledge, support, goodwill, and all around great folks!
 
Problem with loosening all that sludge is that the chunkies trapped inside will also come loose. I'd put the engine on a steady diet of diesel engine oil and change it often - 1000 miles or less even. The detergents in the fresh oil should slowly eliminate the sludge without a massive dump all at once.
 
you can drain out soem of the oil, and put in ATF and run for a few miles
then cahnge out the oil

atf is like 20weight
so it actually will lubricate while you ride it
but it is also very high in detergents which will break up sludge

ive done it befor in v8s and it works great, even lossened up noisy lifters
 
I work on trucks for a living (not a very good living sadly:() and we change oil in the class 8 tractors at 30,000mile intervals so the oil has to hold up. I have had the valve cover off engines with over 500,000 miles on them and there is no sludge build up. Delvac, Rotella, and other 15w40 truck oils are very good in your bike.

dextron transmission fluid works extreamly well for cleaning out a engine, auto transmissions use wet clutches so dextron is safe in a bike, but I would not recomend going over 20% ratio dextron to oil.

I have seen a Ford LTD that a neighbor bought cheep due to it being clogged with sludge so bad it could not drain back down from the valve covers, cleaned out to like new by being filled with straight dextron, and run for 500 miles on it.
 
Diesel Engine Oil?

Diesel Engine Oil?

Nessism said:
Problem with loosening all that sludge is that the chunkies trapped inside will also come loose. I'd put the engine on a steady diet of diesel engine oil and change it often - 1000 miles or less even. The detergents in the fresh oil should slowly eliminate the sludge without a massive dump all at once.
Click to expand...

Nessism, is the one you have recommended Rotella 15W 40?

Thanks!

Rick
 
Agree on the 15-40 diesel. I use it in the Bobcats and though it does get dirty, that just means that it is doing it's job. Also, it seems to hold the solids in suspension longer so that when you pull the filter, you're getting the majority if the solids and not just a stained paper element. My .02
 
ok, this all leads me to another question. and, i dont want to start an oil war here....the 305 guys strongly recommend using non-detergent straight 30 weight oil, using the reasoning that it DOESNT hold the gunk in suspension and lets the centrifugal filter do its job better. i am a convert to the rotella 5-40 synth on my suzuki, and i believe in technology, so i am skeptical of this reasoning. any thoughts on this?

i guess i could use the detergent stuff for a few short interval oil changes to get things cleaned up a bit then bo back to the 30 wt dino....

anyway, sorry for clogging up this forum, and thanks for the input guys!
 
i would just use detergent the filter will still catch whats needed i would think
 
another thing when you have the cover off spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner in there and try to knock the crud out, thats just that much less you have to take out through oil changes
 
greg78gs750 said:
ok, this all leads me to another question. and, i dont want to start an oil war here....the 305 guys strongly recommend using non-detergent straight 30 weight oil, using the reasoning that it DOESNT hold the gunk in suspension and lets the centrifugal filter do its job better. i am a convert to the rotella 5-40 synth on my suzuki, and i believe in technology, so i am skeptical of this reasoning. any thoughts on this?

i guess i could use the detergent stuff for a few short interval oil changes to get things cleaned up a bit then bo back to the 30 wt dino....

anyway, sorry for clogging up this forum, and thanks for the input guys!
Click to expand...


Using non-detergent oil seems just plain stupid to me OTHER than the fact that it won't loosen up all the sludge. As stated before, loosening the sludge can cause it to plug up passages in the engine which is not good. At this point in the engines life I'm not sure what is best. Choices seem to be: leave the sludge well enough alone, try to slowly loosen it up using detergent oil, or dump solvent in the engine and work the sludge out as quickly as possible. My vote is to use the diesel oil and let it work.
 
have a big thing of diesel fuel/oil and pour it in while its draining and running at the same time, it will be like dialysis







dont actually try this on what ive said, but if you do i want a video!!
 
If it were me I would opt for using the Rotella Diesel engine oil and change it frequently. Maybe a tiny bit of Seafoam. Be sure to clean the centrifugal filter each change because it'll catch the loosened up sludge. You don't have to remove the side cover to put the filter back on. I use a small bamboo skewer to catch the chain and hold it up while pushing the filter back in and to the right. You might have to fiddle with it a bit but you can get the chain back on the sprocket and then replace the center shaft.
 
is there a oil tank or oil pan where oil would sit and collect? can this be easily removed? Point being, this is where most of the crud will be and if it can be removed and cleaned that will remove most of the crud in there, and let the oil clean the stuff you can't get too.

Like on the GS if you pull the oil pan and clean it, you remove 90% of the goop that lives in the motor allowing the oil to better clean other areas.
 
onchiman said:
If it were me I would opt for using the Rotella Diesel engine oil and change it frequently. Maybe a tiny bit of Seafoam. Be sure to clean the centrifugal filter each change because it'll catch the loosened up sludge. You don't have to remove the side cover to put the filter back on. I use a small bamboo skewer to catch the chain and hold it up while pushing the filter back in and to the right. You might have to fiddle with it a bit but you can get the chain back on the sprocket and then replace the center shaft.
Click to expand...

thanks for the skewer tip....someone described it as being like a gynaclogist....funny analogy, and apt. i have the side cover off now for polishing but will try the chopstick method at the next oil change.

also, dropping the oil pan is a really good idea.....i am just so wary of opening up pandoras box....in that, the thing ran before i got it....and i fear finding more and more to do until it is winter again and my wife still hasnt ridden the thing and i decide to tear it down completely for a restoration and she freaks out and......

nahhh, surely that wont happen....:D:D:D
 
eh, on closer inspection, no pan, just the lower crankcase, and i am not going there. yet. btw, thanks for all the responses, folks!!
 
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