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Not this freaking light again!

Jethro

Jethro

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Last year I had a problem with my tail light turning on and draining the battery every time the bike was outside in a soaking rain. I'd come home after work and the tail light would be glowing and my battery would be dead. I went through all the connectors and harnesses and checked them. My solution was to make sure I put the cover on the bike every time I left it. Well this year I plan to tour around Nova Scotia in the fall, and I don't plan on bringing the cover. My questions are as follows:
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

1. Has anyone else had this problem?

2. Does anyone know how to waterproof all the electrical connectors? I know 4 wheel drive people do it- can I use silicone caulk?

3. Should I rig up some kind of kill switch for the tail light? I can't seem to find the nature of this problem!!!
 
Could you be turning the ign switch to the parking position??? Or maybe you are getting water into the ign switch??
 
I use Style Glide dielectric grease on every connection of the bike. It is actually made for lubricating your spark plugs so the boots don't get welded on. It is a big tube for about $7, cheaper than the tiny tubes of dielectric grease for $5. I would use non-electrical conductive grease in your ignition switch; or make a little rubber cover for it, a condom would even do in a pinch.

Cheers!

8) Dr. Dre 8)
 
water is getting in your ignition switch and mixing with the grunge and rust that builds up over time causing your short, some ignition switches can be opened up and cleaned, some cant be opened.
 
As for waterproofing, here is what I did for my Scout when I did it up for fording:

Buy a can of plasti-dip, the stuff you use to coat tools. Use it to coat any wire connectors you can find. A wiring diagram will help here.

It dries pliable and waterproof, and can be torn off easy if you need to seperate a connection for some reason.

That Scout stood up to submerging water crossings for nearly 10 years. If tinally succombed to military red tape, which I was unable to fully insulate it against. (The bastards impounded and sold it because the plates expired while I was serving overseas. :x )
 
Dark Jedi said:
As for waterproofing, here is what I did for my Scout when I did it up for fording:

Buy a can of plasti-dip, the stuff you use to coat tools. Use it to coat any wire connectors you can find. A wiring diagram will help here.

It dries pliable and waterproof, and can be torn off easy if you need to seperate a connection for some reason.

That Scout stood up to submerging water crossings for nearly 10 years. If tinally succombed to military red tape, which I was unable to fully insulate it against. (The bastards impounded and sold it because the plates expired while I was serving overseas. :x )
Click to expand...
Liquid tape is good also(neoprene)
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Could you be turning the ign switch to the parking position??? Or maybe you are getting water into the ign switch??
Click to expand...

These would be my first two guesses too.

Terry
 
as an electrician Id go with the Dialectric grease.. thats what I use in the field and on my trailers... It helps to fight the corrosion
 
Get your water hose and just wet the ignition switch. If it happens then you know that is where the problem is. On my bike the 12VDC goes through the switch in the park position and back to the tail light.

Terry
 
If that is the problem, can I just pack the ignition with the dialectric grease, or do I have to fashion some sort of cover type thing and remember to put it on every time I leave the bike?
 
Jethro said:
If that is the problem, can I just pack the ignition with the dialectric grease, or do I have to fashion some sort of cover type thing and remember to put it on every time I leave the bike?
Click to expand...

I can't answer this question. If you can find where it is leaking, you may be able to seal it with RTV or some other kind of silacone sealant.

Terry
 
When I was having an electrical drainage problem, I found some wires partially cut from the seat pan. Mine opens to the side. After checking and correcting all of those nicks to the wires, things went a lot better.

I have also had issues with the liquid tape, it seemed to slither in between the actual wires on the inside and corrupt the connection, even after soldering.

Just my 2
 
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