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Now to Paint.

Buffalo Bill

Buffalo Bill

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I'm taking the leap, and buying a spray gun. I have no one to embarrass except myself. I'm a damn good handyman, so won't take me long to get decent results, or reveal stupid ideas.
Will show my progress in a few weeks, my GS550T cafe will be my first. I'm going to use Petty blue overall with a cream white racing stripe, similar to the '79 GS1000S.
Bill
 
It'll be pretty hard to find any critics of that particular color scheme on this site.

Good luck on the project.

I've used Sherwin Willams products recently. Great product, great tech support.
 
well wild bill, the easy part is the spraying .the body work and prep will make your paint look pro.
attention to detail is every thing and lots of patients helps to. follow the directions on the products your using and all will go good for you.
good luck .....toolman
 
Buffalo Bill said:
I'm taking the leap, and buying a spray gun. I have no one to embarrass except myself. I'm a damn good handyman, so won't take me long to get decent results, or reveal stupid ideas.
Bill
Click to expand...
Which gun are you thinking of getting?
 
Afordable and good spray gun.

Afordable and good spray gun.

rustybronco said:
Which gun are you thinking of getting?
Click to expand...
The Sharpe FX2000, because it's conventional, gravity fed, and there's a wide range of tip sizes. Shopping at tcpglobal.com for Kustom Shop paint too, urethane was recommended for bikes.
 
A touch up gun is a good size for motorcycle type projects. If you go this way, get a gun with at least a 1.0 tip. Another important thing is to get a good water separator and hook it into your air line as far downstream as possible. My compressor actually has two water separators, one near the compressor and another downstream. Also, get one of those small water seperators that screw onto your spray gun, they help catch that last bit of water that always seems to get through.

Good luck and please post lots of photos of your project!:)

Edit: details about the Sharp gun were posted while I was typing. Looks like a good choice although you won't need that wide spray pattern. What tip size are you going to get?
 
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Buffalo Bill-please post a pic of your set-up, what size compressor you are using, etc. We are DIY forum and as many detail as you can provide, we'd be greatfull to have!
 
Sharpe tips

Sharpe tips

Nessism said:
Looks like a good choice although you won't need that wide spray pattern. What tip size are you going to get?
Click to expand...
I thought about choosing a touch up gun, but the regular size will be useful on other projects, the wide pattern I'll just have to dial down. I'm going with 1.3, and 1.8 tips, for starters. That fiberglass seat cowl I made will need a 2K primer.
I've decided I don't care for body shaping with fiberglass and body filler. Next time I'm using aluminum sheet regardless of it's shaping limitations.
Bill
 
Agreed on the pics. Before pictures too! BTW, i work in Bridgman...not too far from you it appears.
 
Solvents for cleaning spray guns.

Solvents for cleaning spray guns.

Guys, can I buy a solvent at the hardware store to clean my spray gun after using urethane? I would prefer to buy it over the counter.
Thanks. Bill
 
If you use a cheap solvent like acetone, be sure to clean the gun thoroughly. By this I mean leave no residue. It does not contain any butyl alcohol to stop the cross linking of the urethane. By this I mean that any product that is not cleaned out will not only dry but will harden and will be difficult to clean out later.

All this to say, just buy acetone and clean it well.
 
El chepo lacquer thinner is good to clean your gun assuming you are spraying automotive type paints. Don't skimp when the time comes or you will pay for it later.

BTW, spent Saturday painting; shot the frame, swingarm, etc, in the morning and shot some other parts with clear in the afternoon. Used an airbrush to hit all the little brackets and such hard to reach spots and then hit the frame with the touch up gun afterwords. Used Por-15 Hardnose paint. Pretty good stuff.


 
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Ogri said:
If you use a cheap solvent like acetone, be sure to clean the gun thoroughly. By this I mean leave no residue. It does not contain any butyl alcohol to stop the cross linking of the urethane. By this I mean that any product that is not cleaned out will not only dry but will harden and will be difficult to clean out later.

All this to say, just buy acetone and clean it well.
Click to expand...
Thanks, ?Cross linking", that explains the broad mix of solvent ingredients listed for the ?Compliant Cleaner?. :eek:
 
Lookin good Ed! Im debating on using that Hardnose or doing powdercoat on the ES when I take her down for a full refurbish this fall/winter. Im leaning toward PC..cause its cheap enough, but that POR15 looks killer... maybe for the motor for sure..
 
Nessism said:
El chepo lacquer thinner is good to clean your gun assuming you are spraying automotive type paints. Don't skimp when the time comes or you will pay for it later.

BTW, spent Saturday painting; shot the frame, swingarm, etc, in the morning and shot some other parts with clear in the afternoon. Used an airbrush to hit all the little brackets and such hard to reach spots and then hit the frame with the touch up gun afterwords. Used Por-15 Hardnose paint. Pretty good stuff.
Click to expand...
Is that a 550 frame? I'm not ready myself to spend time on a frame restore, good work Dude!
 
Looks like a 1000 frame and an 1100 swinger.
I like the spray booth!
Cheers
 
Nessism said:
El chepo lacquer thinner is good to clean your gun assuming you are spraying automotive type paints. Don't skimp when the time comes or you will pay for it later.

BTW, spent Saturday painting; shot the frame, swingarm, etc, in the morning and shot some other parts with clear in the afternoon. Used an airbrush to hit all the little brackets and such hard to reach spots and then hit the frame with the touch up gun afterwords. Used Por-15 Hardnose paint. Pretty good stuff.

Chassispaint001.jpg


Chassispaint003.jpg
Click to expand...
Great work Ed, creative use of the bicycle stand, I think I have one similar laying around somewhere. Super idea. should be a good project to watch...82..1100g?
 
That IS great use of a bicycle stand. That looks awesome! I'm leaning toward PC because of the chip resistance, but the paint look so sharp!
 
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Ed,
I was wondering when you were going to get to that Hardnose.
Show a close up ; it is beautiful stuff.
Are you going to clear over that for that deep deep shine? The Glisten PC is the same formulation and you can come right over the top within 24 hours to get it to bond real well to the black. Don't do the same to regular paint; it will bubble (ask me how I know)
Jim
 
Honestly Jim, that Hardnose paint has amazing gloss...almost too much for a chassis. I don't see any reason to add any clear. Excess film build just makes it more prone to chipping anyway.

The bike is my 1000S. To prep the chassis I sandblasted using Play Sand from Lowe's; my compressor can't keep up so I focused the blast on the rusted area (there were very few) but mostly just used the blasting to rough up the existing paint. Sealed it all over with a coat of PPG DP Epoxy Primer. After that it was the Hardnose paint.

I also painted some other pieces using POR Chassis Black; a single component paint that is semi gloss. Painted things like the battery box and various brackets and such. It's less hassle to paint with the single pack paint. They make a gloss version called Blackcote which would be a good choice for a frame and swingarm.

At any rate, glad most of this paint work is done. I bought a bunch of different paints but didn't use that much of any of it. My guess is that I sprayed about $60 in materials for everything. Took a LOT of time though. I wouldn't blame anyone for going with powder coat.:)
 
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