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Number 4 Carb won't Synch!!!!! I need some advice...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
Hi Keith,
Do you think that the fuel vents have a noticable restriction of fuel flow? On my 81 and 82 the vent Ts are a much smaller bore than the ports in the carbs but they sure do keep out a lot of dirt. On my #1 carbs I tend to find a ton of dirt in the incomplete vent port (it is on every carb but dead ends on the outside two). I was thinking about leaving the vents out until I found this.

Cheers, Steve
 
srivett said:
Hi Keith,
Do you think that the fuel vents have a noticable restriction of fuel flow? On my 81 and 82 the vent Ts are a much smaller bore than the ports in the carbs but they sure do keep out a lot of dirt. On my #1 carbs I tend to find a ton of dirt in the incomplete vent port (it is on every carb but dead ends on the outside two). I was thinking about leaving the vents out until I found this.

Cheers, Steve
I know for a fact the VM carbs venting ability is inadequate if quality pod filters and 4-1 pipe are installed. Fuel starvation will happen.
I'm sure the CV carbs are also affected but it may be to a lesser degree. I've never tested for this on a bike with CV's. I would follow the requirements for the jet kit or call the maker. I've never had a problem with dirt entering the floatbowl vent nipples.
Did I answer your question right, or did I misread it?
 
Ok, glad to help. You can contact www.dynojet.com
I don't know what brand of jet kit you have but if they tell you it's a requirement in their kit instructions, then it makes sense to me it would be the same for all brands of kits.
You can also ask the members here. I'm sure many of them have jet kits on their stock CV carbs.
I wish I could see the vent area on your carbs. I wonder why you have a problem with dirt accumulating?
 
Update & a question

Update & a question

Here's the latest...

I adjusted the air screws for the best idle and went for a slow (less than 45mph) speed ride. After the ride, I checked the plugs. 1 & 4 are alittle rich, so I leaned pilots on said cylinders 1/4 turn. 2 & 3 still look good (light tan). The bike is running pretty good. I hope the pilot adjustments will bring the plugs around....I'm tired of going into the carbs :?

Now, one more question for you all...

My bike (78 GS1000) has a small, well medium oil leak. I thought the leak was coming out of the left-side stator cover, so I pulled it off, put on new gasget and silicon, but the leak was still there. The more I got to looking, it seemed to be coming from BEHIND the stator cover (on the outide), so I pulled off the front sprocket cover and found a dime-size hole drilled in the case up in the corner directly behind the bulge where the starter gear is housed. I think this is where the oil is coming from. Can anyone tell me what the purpose of this "hole" is and should it have a plug in it?

I'm asking first because I don't want to pull the newly siliconed stator cover off if I don't have to...

Thanks again
 
That hole is in the bottom of the starter motor housing. I would say you need to replace the o-ring on the flange of the starter where it goes through into the stator case.
Dink
 
Hi. You say the bike is running pretty good, so I assume the "cough and missing" at 2-4,000 rpm's has cleared up? You say 1 and 4 were a little rich so you turned those pilots in 1/4 turn. Once you're getting close, a 1/4 turn is a lot. You may want to go back out 1/8. Just do as the plugs say.
As for your leak, from what I remember 4 years ago when my engine was re-built, I too had a small leak as you describe. I also checked out the hole you are talking about and asked Vance & Hines if they forgot to plug it. They said it does'nt have a plug. I also went to the local salvage yard and the owner say's that hole is not plugged. It's part of the crankcase breathing design? He showed me a GS1100 motor and it also had an unplugged hole. Think about it, why would they drill a hole just to plug it up? Some of my leaking was a bad o-ring on the starter motor shaft, where it inserts into the case. Take off your stainless steel starter motor cover and you can see if the o-ring is leaking. I still have a small leak somewhere that I just cannot pin point but I can live with it. If you do completely stop your leak, please let me know what you did.
So you're tired of getting into the carbs? My friend, re-jetting sometimes does'nt come easy. I could tell you some horror stories but I'll spare you the details. I just hope your bike is running good and that my trials and errors have made your re-jetting less trouble. I know how frustrating it can be. Patience will reward you with a bike that you enjoy riding every time you get on it. Let me know if you have any more questions.
 
Yeah, after looking further into what was going on, it became obvious to me that the hole is simply a drain port for water, oil, and the like. I pulled my starter and replaced the o-ring on the shaft, but I haven't run it yet to see if I've stopped the leak. If it still leaks, i'll try a bigger o-ring.

Actually, i've gotten pretty proficient at pulling and tearing into the carbs. I'm just ready to go on to the next project on the bike for awhile. However, all of the input that the guys on this site (esp. you, Keith) have given me has been invaluable. Thanks again, for all of the knowledge that you all have shared and the time you've put in to answering my questions. Ya'll are awesome.

The carbs are getting close...I'm gonna run it some more this week and do some more plug reads. My new Vance & Hines Megaphones are coming in Tuesday! I'm pretty pumped about that.

Thanks again & God Bless
 
OK, sounds good. So the 2-4,000 rpm cough/miss are gone? I'd like to know what settings have worked on our bikes. This helps with giving the next owner good info.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Remove the 2 floatbowl vent tubes. They restrict the venting.
Keith.

Is this true? When I called the shop in my area they said that I had to plug the 2 vent nipples in between the carbs. They said that was the reason my bike was idling at 5k rpm.
I don't know what to do now... :(

Dm of mD
 
Detman101 said:
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Remove the 2 floatbowl vent tubes. They restrict the venting.
Keith.

Is this true? When I called the shop in my area they said that I had to plug the 2 vent nipples in between the carbs. They said that was the reason my bike was idling at 5k rpm.
I don't know what to do now... :(

Dm of mD
If we are talking about the same 2 vent nipples, yes, you should remove their lines and leave them open if you are running pod filters. These provide venting to the floatbowls. Each nipple feeds 2 carbs. If you plugged them up, how would the bowls vent? As the jets draw fuel, air MUST be allowed to enter the float chamber or you'll experience fuel starvation. Your shop either has a communication problem or they don't understand basic carburetion principles.
 
Thank God I have you all.
I have a feeling they may have wanted me to bring them my bike to work on.

:D
Dm of mD
 
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