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Oh sh!t I stripped it!

  • Thread starter Thread starter GSJoe
  • Start date Start date
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GSJoe

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I just got my new used R/R in the mail so I decided to go out and remove the old one. The phillip's screws were rusty so I sprayed WD-40 in them and let them soak for about 10 minutes. Came out, put the screw driver in, and turned with all my strength. Suddenly, the thing starts turning freely in my hand and I realised I had stripped the screw. I moved on to the second screw and the same thing happened. What can I do now to get the damn thing out?! :x

Many thanks in advance!
 
Drill the screws out.
If they're on the bottom of the battery box like mine is
then you are going to have to remove the whole box
to be able to get a bit on the screws.

Peace
Mo
 
Re: Oh sh!t I stripped it!

If you have a Dremel too, use a cut off disk to cut a slot in the top of the screw so you can use a blade screwdriver.

If you have a pair of needle nose vice grips, you may be able to grip the screw enough to get it loosened.

Filing a flat on each side of the screw will allow you to get a small wrench on it, but it is tedious. :-)

Hold a heavy hammer behind the screw to act as a backing plate while using another hammer to mash/close the phillips slot in the screw. then, hammer a philips bit into the top of the head, cutting a new philips slot.

Buy a new motorcycle.

Earl :-)


GSJoe said:
I just got my new used R/R in the mail so I decided to go out and remove the old one. The phillip's screws were rusty so I sprayed WD-40 in them and let them soak for about 10 minutes. Came out, put the screw driver in, and turned with all my strength. Suddenly, the thing starts turning freely in my hand and I realised I had stripped the screw. I moved on to the second screw and the same thing happened. What can I do now to get the damn thing out?! :x

Many thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
 
the screws have nuts welded on the plate. check and see if thay did not bust or rust loose.

if thay did just use a adjustable wrinch to help get the screw out. you can replace the nuts by tack welding a new one in place.
 
Same happened to me with a screw on the frame. It had a nut tack welded on the frame that it screwed into. I busted the nut off the tack weld, and the it just spun around. I used the aforementioned way of grabbing the nut with a wrench and then unscrewing the bolt, and tack welded the nut back on. I have also had to cut the bolt by the nut in order to get a seized one off.
 
I don't have a welder nor do I have a drill, so those options are out. I am going to remove the bat box tommorrow at look for those nuts. The damn thing needs cleaned anyway (acid from overfilled battery all over), so I might as well do that while it's out. Thanks again y'all!
 
Well, a hack saw and JB weld may do the trick too...What I did before heavily investing in Black and Decker..... :cry:
 
Maybe you can borrow a drill from somebody? This happened to me, too, and I found the drill worked perfectly. Something about the size or a little bigger of the screw shaft will work fine, and it doesn't damage the R/R one bit. Just have some lube on hand for the bit.
 
Astra625 said:
Try these: Screw out http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952154000

I got them on sale for 9.99 they look like they are well worth it. I have the bolt out set and they work great, but i have yet to use these.
Click to expand...

sorry but you wasted $9.99, I picked up a set when they first came out and they are totaly worthless.
if a screw is in tight enough to strip the head they are in to tight for the "screw out to remove.
all I have been able to get them to do is drill the head out, they just would not get a bite that would hold.
so i finaly got realy pissed and threw them away.
 
Once the battery box is out, your questions about the rear nut are answered.

Hammering the philips end of the screw shut often allows you to re-establish usability, but you DO need a firm backing, as Earl suggested. Check first, to be sure the bolt threads on the back are not going to suffer with this treatment.


With no Dremel, you can still create a slot, by drawing a hacksaw blade across the screw head

Vice grips will also work more easily, now that you have free access.


Once the philips bolts are out, replace them with new ones, using hex or allen heads. Put a bit of light oil on the threads before assembly.

Clean off the area beneath the bolt head well, add a washer to the bolt, then run an extra wire from there to the negative terminal of the battery to ensure you have a good, constant, ground
 
we use screwout things similar to those at work for stripped screws, and have had nary a problem. i guess it's one of those instances in which: your mileage may vary.

(i work in an auto shop)
 
One thing I've come to love is my impact driver. Cost me about $10 (Cdn). The bits are usually well machined, so are a tight fit in any screw. Also, by hammering into the screw, it's just about impossible for the bit to slip out and strip the head. Every time I use it I think about how I'd be reduced to tears of rage without it... Highly recommended!
 
insted of light oil on the threads before assembly, use never sieze for spark plugs. its a Anti-sieze compound get the ones for spark plugs. thay have some with copper works good for electracal connections.
 
Also, remove your exhaust header bolts an coat them with anti seize. No more broken bolts when you try to remove them. :-)

Earl


gremlin said:
insted of light oil on the threads before assembly, use never sieze for spark plugs. its a Anti-sieze compound get the ones for spark plugs. thay have some with copper works good for electracal connections.
Click to expand...
 
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