Oil Change question?

[Anonymous]

earlfor : Thank you, just what I needed to know.

The oil level on my bike seems a little high though, the whole window is full. Keep in mind that the engine hasn't been started since I changed the oil, so I figure that once he crank has turned a few turns the oil will be pumped to new parts of the engine (boldly going where no oil has gone before).

Am I right in this assumption ? :?

Oh and, that shop manual definately is comprehensive. I'll probably end up shelling out $111 if I can get one just like it.

 

[earlfor]

After changing the oil filter and filling the crankcase, the oil level showing in the sight window will go down slightly once the oil filter is filled. Run the bike for about half a minute, the check the level with the bike on the centerstand. If its still overfull, drain a little out.

Earl

earlfor : Thank you, just what I needed to know.

The oil level on my bike seems a little high though, the whole window is full. Keep in mind that the engine hasn't been started since I changed the oil, so I figure that once he crank has turned a few turns the oil will be pumped to new parts of the engine (boldly going where no oil has gone before).

Am I right in this assumption ? :?

Oh and, that shop manual definately is comprehensive. I'll probably end up shelling out $111 if I can get one just like it.

 

[Anonymous]

Okay, I'll be starting her up tomorrow. Spent this evening reassembling and mounting the fork. All that needs to be done is to change the brake fluid and then I'm done with that end of the bike.

I'll be adding an in-line fuel filter and changing the battery connectors tomorrow.

Looks like I'll be able to take her for my first ride this weekend

 

[Anonymous]

I bought a manual from Robert for a total of $ 27 dollars Canadian ($15 American) including postage. In Canada the same manual in a store is $45 or more!. I found that the more work you do on your bike the more you enjoy riding it. A year ago I knew nothing about my bike and now i know it like the back of my hand. It feels good to ride something you fixed. Without a manual and this site it would have been overwhelming.
Have Fun!!!

 

[Anonymous]

I ordered a Clymer from Chapters a few years ago and it took months. Zeke was right on the price too, it was really high.

Steve

 

[Hotblack]

Manuals are one thing J.C. Whitney's can't screw up. They send it quick and not overpriced, but I don't know if they ship to other countries.

 

[redliner1973]

Check EBAY for manuals there too, i f i remember there was one listed pretty cheap under "GS1100". :twisted:

 

[G man]

You can forget about gear lube as there is nothing on your bike that uses any.

What about the secondary and final drive units? I use 90W hypoid gear oil in mine (850GL) per the manual.

Is the Haynes manual wrong (again)??????

 

[Dink]

I just got my first bike this winter, a 1983 GSX750ES, and I'm in the process of getting it ready for the season. I don't have a manual though, all I've got are some pages I xeroxed from the workshop manual at one of the local bike shops. A manual might be worth it's weight in gold, but right now $111 is a bit much to spend on a book :?

What kind of oil should I use for the gears, and how much do I need to do a complete change ? The previous owner rode this thing way more than he maintained it :evil:

First things first, your bike is CHAIN final drive, there is no gear oil to change. So use an ENGINE oil to change the engine oil, the drain plug for which is underneath rearward of the midline of the motor and the oil filter housing with five nuts holding is at the front of the motor at the bottom. Those genuine manuals can get very expensive, try an aftermarket manual like Clymer or Haynes as everyone else mentioned.
Dink

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah I know, I figured that by now. The bike in the original question was a two valve GS shaftie. I did use genuine engine oil. Took it out for the first time today - this thing is a rocket on wheels :twisted:

As for the manuals, I haven't been able to find one from Clymers or Haynes on my bike. I feel like I've looked everywhere on the net. As long as the bike shop here allows me to xerox whatever I want from their manual I'm ok.

 

[Anonymous]

When changing engine oil, it is a good idea to go for a ride first (at least 15 miles) so that the oil gets heated up (drains more easily) and contaminants are suspended in the oil.

On the 1983 GS(X)750E/ES, I seem to recall that the drain plug takes a 21 mm socket.

Simon

 

[Anonymous]

With the "oil" like it was in my bike when I bought it, I wanted to ride it as little as possible. When I removed the drain plug lots of fluid gushed out, and I do mean GUSHED - it smelled more like gasoline than anything else. 8O

 

[Anonymous]

I changed the oil on my GS550E yestarday. I couldn't find any SE/SR oil anywhere. I went to walmart and pepboys. I went to the motorcycle shop and got some honda oil, the guy said it would work fine and wouldn't hurt the wet clutch. I think its SJ rated.

The manual for the bike says it take 2.5 quarts. It took a lot more then that to fill it up. Well its in between the L and H mark now.

 

[Anonymous]

conquestpa : I have Honda 10W40 dinosaur oil in my GK crankcase right now. It works just fine. I've used the stuff plenty of times, as well as the Suzuki 10W40 and Yamalube 20W40. I get it at my local dealers, so I can continue to have a good relationship with them. So, I seldom go in a dealer and leave empty-handed. I could always use some oil anyway!

D|sElMiNk : one possible reason why the drained oil came out smelling of gasoline is that the fuel got into the crankcase bypassing the petcock. A leaky petcock will let the fuel get in there and contaminate the motor oil, rendering it useless, with potential damage to the engine.

Have the petcock chacked.

Nick

 

[Anonymous]

Have the petcock chacked.

Also have it checked :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Got me there, Scotty! Glad to know there are indeed other smarta$$es in this forum!

I'll be more careful chacking things in the future.

Chacking Nick

 

[Anonymous]

how does one check the fuel petock?

 

[Anonymous]

Got me there, Scotty! Glad to know there are indeed other smarta$$es in this forum!

I'll be more careful chacking things in the future.

Chacking Nick

Nick it is probably the ony time i cought a spelling error in any ones posts. Especially mine. :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

how does one check the fuel petock?

You may chack or check your petcock by removing the gas line and seeing if it is dripping. Overnight would be better.
Also take a look at the plug that is related to the carb that the petcock vacume line is connected to. See if it is darker than the others. There is a bit more but please do those things first.

 

[Anonymous]

OK one more beginneer question:

I've never changed a spark plug in a bike before, I put a new set in last night when I did the oil. So I pull the first plug wire and was like "hmmm theres somthing wrong with this plug. The little brass insert was in there backwards for some reason. So I used some needle nose pliers to get it out. Out came a little gray tube of porcelien. I thought "what the hell is that? Thats not supposed to be there" so I took it out and threw it on the garage floor...



I screw the brass insert backin till it stopped turning easily.


Luckily, the brass inserts in the other plug wires weren't messed up so I didn't have to "fix" them




Seems to be running fine, at first the idle was a little off, but its fine now.

When I get out of work Im going to try to find the resistor porcelon and try to put it back it there. The bike seemed to run fine with out it. I will also run up to the store and get some di electric greese to put on the plugs, sure that won't hurt.

Is there any damage that can be caused without that insulating porcelon in there? Anything else speacial about the brass part or the plugs I should know?