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Oil Change question?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
pjackson said:
D|sElMiNk said:
Nick Diaz : I am very much indeed getting ripped off. That $111 is in US currency. The price quoted to me for a new manual was 815kr. If the manual had cost 111kr I wouldn't hesitate to buy it. I can afford the manual later on, I just think it's a lot of money for something I should be able to find at a more reasonable price.

Oh and, I don't blame you for having trouble pronouncing my nickname, it's far easier in norwegian :lol:

As for the Clymer manual, the closest match I've found for my bike (GSX750ESD) is this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/1850105936/ref=nosim/broughsbooks0f/202-4731366-2407857

Are there any differences between the 550 and the 750 that could fork things up for me if I were to buy it?

D|sElMiNk,
You might check with Robert Skelton. He has manuals for sale in the Misc Parts For Sale forum all the time. Even with overseas postage I'd think it would be quite a bit less than $111 USD.




If what he was getting is the Factory Service Manual, it may indeed be $111. I paid like $60, 10 yrs ago, but it's for all 1100 models 81-82 and it is from the Factory, so it covers EVERYTHING
 
Thanks for the heads-up Nick and slopoke - I'll check on the petcock tomorrow when it's been sitting overnight. I mounted the in-line fuel filter today. I will also need to get some new spark plugs before I can ride again, as it only starts up on three cylinders right now.

Daveo : you are probably right, as it did cover every aspect of the bike. I might shell out for it later, but right now I cannot afford it. :cry:
 
OK, as far as my spark plug situation is concerned, I geuss I'll just look in the manual, but any tips would be helpful...

:lol:
 
Hmm...checked on the petcock today, the petcock itself seems to sweat a tiny amount of fuel from it's bottom (onto the engine), but when I removed the fuel line there was extremely little, if any, fuel there.

For now I can ride with it, as I'll be using the bike quite a lot once I get those spark plugs - but I want to fix it before putting the bike away for storage after the season is over. I'll look into those Pingle valves - does anyone have a favorite model ?
 
D|sElMiNk said:
Hmm...checked on the petcock today, the petcock itself seems to sweat a tiny amount of fuel from it's bottom (onto the engine), but when I removed the fuel line there was extremely little, if any, fuel there.

For now I can ride with it, as I'll be using the bike quite a lot once I get those spark plugs - but I want to fix it before putting the bike away for storage after the season is over. I'll look into those Pingle valves - does anyone have a favorite model ?
Ill tell you and easy and very inexpensive way to solve your problem if you tell me your full real name please. :D
 
Uhm - it's ?ivind Stuan - why ? Now please do tell, as I'm all for fixing such problems by going the least expensive route :wink:
 
D|sElMiNk said:
Uhm - it's ?ivind Stuan - why ? Now please do tell, as I'm all for fixing such problems by going the least expensive route :wink:
I lied to you because i couldnt say your nick name. SORRY OIVIND. I am wondering if i could ask yhou to put your real first name on the signature area. I really like to call my new friends by thier real name,
 
Oil ratings

Oil ratings

As far as the SE rating goes, you aren't gonna find it anymore. It was an automotive rating for 1979 and older cars. For the most part, each succsesive rating is 'better' than the previous, with lower phosphorous, impurities, etc etc. Current popular is SJ (with SK out now I think).

Table from API website:

SJ
Current
Introduced in the API Service Symbol in 1996. For all automotive engines presently in use.

SH
Obsolete
For model year 1996 and older engines. Valid when preceded by certain C categories.

SG
Obsolete
For model year 1993 and older engines.

SF
Obsolete
For 1988 and older engines.

SE
Obsolete
For 1979 and older engines.

SD
Obsolete
For 1971 and older engines.

SC
Obsolete
For 1967 and older engines.

SB
Obsolete
For older engines. Use only when specifically recommended by the manufacturer.

SA
Obsolete
For older engines; no performance requirement. Use only when specifically recommended by the manufacturer.

Hope this helps..... :roll:
 
Is it possible to change the user name without creating a new account ?
 
D|sElMiNk said:
Is it possible to change the user name without creating a new account ?
Oivind
I had to make a new email account with my provider in order to change my user name. I have done it 3 times. Usually the provider allows multiple email accounts.
 
How about I just keep my name in the signature, that'll save me some work. If I had to open up the spare e-mail I've got it would mean I had to spend time I'd much rather spend discussing and riding. :wink:

All work and no play makes Johnny a dull boy. :twisted:

Also it's kind of a habit, I use this nickname on all internet forums and disucssion groups. Makes it easier to find me (for other people).

Now please, tell me your way of fixing the leaky petcock. I'm all ears, or eyes 8O
 
Oivind
I personally really appreciate what you have done by putting your real name in the signature. How about helping me to learn how to pronounce your nick name and if you care to then please tell me what it means. I wouldnt change my nick name if i were you. It certantly attracts my attention 8O even if i dont know what it means. :D
 
slopoke : well the first part of the nick is easy, just say "diesel" - the mink part..hm...minx but with no "s" at the end. Hope that made sense.

Dieselmink is apparantly slang for tank driver in the norwegian military, if you're in the infantry you're a regular "mink". I was planning on being in the cavalry when I did my duty - but it looks like I'll be an electronics service technician instead. And I thought it was a cool (though oddball) nick. So far I haven't had any problems with people calling themselves the same as me.

Oh and if you're wondering why the nick is an "e" short, the reason is that on EFnet's IRC servers the nicks can have a maximum length of nine characters

Mink:
mink.jpg


G man : I'll check up on those repair kits with my local bike shop, if they can't get any I'll check out the price for a new petcock. Took the bike out for it's first ride with new spark plugs today - after the prerequisite amount of winter-storage hiccups she's now running smooth (and loud :mrgreen: )
 
Since the original poster made a confession, I'll make one too. I haven't changed the oil filter in my 850 in at least 10 years. I do keep the oil changed frequently though.:)
 
Thank Oivind for the lesson. I volinteered for the tank division when Viet nam started. they didnt take me because i was deaf and couldnt pass a hearing test.
 
:D Scotty:he tried that already and I STILL can't pronounce it :? Maybe if it is pronounced "phonetically"?
BTW Oivand I think you may have ruined the resistor in your spark plug connector.A simple fix is to get BR8ES resistor sparkplugs and eliminate the resistors on the porcelane.Replace them with a strait end and boot.Works fine on my 79 GS850.
Could your name be pronounced "Ivan" ? :D
 
Why do you say that about my plugs ? I fitted fresh DR8ES-L plugs yesterday and the bike runs fine, tanked her up on 98 un-leaded. The carbs need work though, that's the next area I need to focus on.

And no it's not pronounced "Ivan" :x
 
Gary Gary Gary

Gary Gary Gary

that is really a bad thing to do or should I say, Not to do. Oil filters do NEED changed. They are not generally considered a marketing scam by the filter makers.

Not changing it means its gotta be somewhat blocked from all the things it has been filtering, which means your engine is running with less oil flow than it should have. There is no oil no matter how new you keep it, that will protect unless it can get to the parts that need protected.
 
can you guys clear up the confuession about the spark plug resistors for me and dieselimx?
 
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