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Oil coolers

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bill Lloyd
  • Start date Start date
What search terms should I be using? Suzuki GS 16v 750 oil filter cover adapter?

I wouldn't include 16v. I would include GS750 and "GS 750". As you know, you have to play with the search to find what you want a lot of times.

Hap
 
I sent Terry a PM about the current cost for one, but if anybody has one laying around they want to get rid of let me know. I assume Nessism got the one pictured earlier in the thread.
 
I sent Terry a PM about the current cost for one, but if anybody has one laying around they want to get rid of let me know. I assume Nessism got the one pictured earlier in the thread.

Not entirely sure who's first in line but don’t think it was me.

I have a spare adapter sent to me by another member here – Focus Frenzy. It does not have the protrusion on the bottom to go down and get the oil at the port. Lurch told me that he thought there was a second piece, which is missing, that inserted into the oil port, then the adapter plate clamps down and holds it in place. Was going to make a new extension piece by modifying a brass plumbing fitting (should be easy enough). If you want to mess around with this please let me know and I’ll send the adapter your way. Not as pretty as Terry’s, or that Kerker adapter, but free if you want it.
 
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That would be the original poster Bill Lloyd.
going once...

in all fairness I sent him a pm.
 
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Sent you a pm nessism. If you already know any of the specs like the diameter of the tubing needed, etc... pass those along.
 
So, I cant bolt up an 1150 oil filter plate on my 16v '82 750 for an oil cooler?
Can the plate be modified to work or what?
 
Not entirely sure who's first in line but don?t think it was me.

I have a spare adapter sent to me by another member here ? Lurch. It does not have the protrusion on the bottom to go down and get the oil at the port. Lurch told me that he thought there was a second piece, which is missing, that inserted into the oil port, then the adaptor plate clamps down and holds it in place. Was going to make a new extension piece by modifying a brass plumbing fitting (should be easy enough). If you want to mess around with this please let me know and I?ll send the adapter your way. Not as pretty as Terry?s, or that Kerker adapter, but free if you want it.

Nessism,
Happened to read this, but I don't think this was me...but if you want to give me credit that's fine:-)
 
Nessism,
Happened to read this, but I don't think this was me...but if you want to give me credit that's fine:-)

Dang, not you eh? Can't remember who sent me that adapter.:( PM was deleted. My bad. Who ever it was is a credit to the board - sent it to me and wouldn't accept any payment. GSR is a great place.

Edit: Remembered that it was Focus Frenzy that sent the adapter to me. Great guy.
 
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Re: Lockhart

Re: Lockhart

Here's a pic off mine off my 78 1000 8 valve. I think this one was made by Lockhart.

100_6784.jpg

Yep, that's a Lockhart adapter. The only problem with this design was they used a rubber bushing that extends down from that center port to seal the oil gallery which as others have stated sends the engine oil to the cooler.

We all know what happens to rubber parts over time and when I inspected mine last time it was pretty hard. I recently e-mailed Lockhart and didn't even get a reply. Should have bought a spare in the 1980's but if someone know of a bushing that fits I am all ears.
 
Not a rubber bushing but modified this plumbing fitting to do the same function. Chucked up the fitting in my drill press and turned it down slightly on the threaded male section so it fits snug into the port on the engine. Upper section was shortened so it's flush with the top of the engine oil cavity. Last thing was to drill it out as large as possible to it flows well. Going to use this piece on my homebuilt adapter.

oilportadapter3.jpg


Oilportadapter.jpg


oilportadapter2.jpg
 
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That will probably work if it is a nice tight fit against the underside of your adapter plate mate, not pretty, (and you can't see it anyway) but functional. I'd trim some more off the OD too, to allow plenty of oil to pass back into the return port on your engine. Cheers, Terry.
 
You don't have to cover the port so that all the oil runs through the cooler. I have had a cooler on my 850 for several years now. It was made by Lockhart. I got it from Hap. It has an extension that goes part of the way down to the port, but does not cover it completely. This setup is a partial flow. It allows some oil to go to the cooler and some to the engine. I did quite a bit of experimentation when I added the cooler. Since my setup was a partial flow, I was worried about reducing the oil pressure and not having enough oil going to the engine. I fab'ed a series of inserts to place in the line to my cooler and tried each one until I had the correct oil pressure, based upon the factory manual, and still allowed oil to the cooler. When adding a cooler, I would recommend added a pressure guage to the oil gallery plug on the right side of the 8 valve engines.
 
You might not "have" to direct all your oil to the cooler, but why would you not want all your oil to be cooled? Are you sure your adapter is complete? Some of the old adapters had a flexible rubber "block" to take up the gap between the adapter and the port.

Once your cooler is "on line" and you have oil in the lines and radiator, (within a matter of seconds from initial installation) you're not going to be short of oil, so I can't see any benefit in not cooling all your oil?

If you're somehow trying to regulate the oil temp, you'd be much better off with a thermostatically controlled valve, than what you currently have, in my opinion. Cheers, Terry.
 
With the low pressure oiling system used on the roller crank GS engines, I couldn't get the oil pressure light to stay off unless all the oil flow is captured by the extension piece capping the oil galley. In my experience, even a small gap between the pieces allowed oil pressure to bleed off and throw the light at idle.
 
With the low pressure oiling system used on the roller crank GS engines, I couldn't get the oil pressure light to stay off unless all the oil flow is captured by the extension piece capping the oil galley. In my experience, even a small gap between the pieces allowed oil pressure to bleed off and throw the light at idle.

That's it mate, I use a digital vernier to measure mine when I make my coolers, and so far, after 8 years and hundreds made, no complaints. I don't think that putting restrictors in your oil line to fool your oil pressure switch is a real good idea. Cheers, Terry.
 
The restrictor ensures that enough oil stays in the motor to keep it lubed, while still allowing some oil to flow through the cooler. I am not fooling the oil pressure sensor. It still maintains the correct pressure in the engine. The adapter I have is slightly different than the one you manufacture. It replaces the OEM pressure switch with one similar to those used on older car engines. The switch that came with the adapter plate required too much pressure to keep the oil light off when the motor was idling. I did quite a bit of searching and found a Borg-Warner switch for a BMW car that fit my adapter plate and required only .5 LBs of pressure to keep the light off. This set up has worked well.

All the parts were there, as this was a kit that Hap had. I even contacted Lockhart about it.

Now some may think that a partial flow would not be benificial, but I will tell you it has made a significant change in the operating temperatures of the bike. After a ride, you can reach down and feel a major difference in the temperature of the lines going to and from the cooler.
 
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Ah well, not an ideal situation in my opinion mate, but if it works for you, then all the best! Cheers, Terry.
 
You don't have to cover the port so that all the oil runs through the cooler. I have had a cooler on my 850 for several years now. It was made by Lockhart. I got it from Hap. It has an extension that goes part of the way down to the port, but does not cover it completely. This setup is a partial flow. It allows some oil to go to the cooler and some to the engine. I did quite a bit of experimentation when I added the cooler.

Lockhart didn't design it the way you have described; you are missing the rubber bushing that Terry mentioned which completly seals the extension down to the center oil port. I installed my Lockhart cooler back in 1982. I will send you picture Monday if interested . . . I am sure its working fine though.
 
The switch that came with the adapter plate required too much pressure to keep the oil light off when the motor was idling. I did quite a bit of searching and found a Borg-Warner switch for a BMW car that fit my adapter plate and required only .5 LBs of pressure to keep the light off. This set up has worked well.


I'm interested in learning what model and year BMW that pressure switch was used on. If I can come up with a suitable switch like this building an adapter could be done using a simple plate and regular plumbing fittings - no need for a special adapter (no offense Terry).

Latest idea is simple plate and plumbing fittings. The seperate brass fitting goes down in the oil port and sends the oil upward - easy to make from a common brass fitting. The pressure switch shown is from Napa - not sure if the pressure threshold is low enough though. Experiments with this sensor were not favorable in the past, but I learned that the adapter was leaking internally (not capturing 100% of the oil flow) so I'm going to try again. A .5 psi switch sounds ideal so please share any info you can.

Picture185.jpg


.
 
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Boys, I have to back up a bit. My oil cooler and adapter are made by Hayden. I even found the old emails I had from them. I kept thinking it was a Lockhart, but I went out and looked. I already forgot the model, but the cooler has a metalized plastic shroud to direct more air through it. The hoses attach to the side on barbs and just clamp on with hose clamps.

As for that pressure switch, I will have to look and see if I still have the info. I just got lucky and was looking through the manufacturer's catalog at the switches and came across it. I either have the receipt stuck in my paper work in a filing cabinet, or I have it written down in my manual. I will post it if I find it.
 
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