timebombprod
Forum Sage
bike started today, had a oil leak, and i knew where it came from right away, one of the threebolts u fasten down on youroil filter cover is stripped, any idea what sizebolt i need?
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oil filter bolt size on a 82 gs650gl
- Thread starter timebombprod
- Start date
Rijko
Forum Sage
Have you taken out the bolt and checked its size ?
The oil filter cover should be mounted on studs, not with bolts.
timebombprod
Forum Sage
my bad yeah its studs, i havent took it off because theres the spring and oil in there and i didnt want a mess created, lol pansy.\
when i think of bolt i think of the fastener but i guess thats the nut
when i think of bolt i think of the fastener but i guess thats the nut
Rijko
Forum Sage
I take it that the stud is damaged, not just the nut.
Unless you want to try to get the stud out while leaving everything in place,
and putting in a bolt, you will have to take the cover off.
Take a few minutes to do it the proper way, drain the oil and take that cover off,
replace the stud.
timebombprod
Forum Sage
Rijko
Forum Sage
M6 x 20.
CMSNL states it on the partslist.
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs650gl-1982-z-usa-e03_model34272/partslist/BLCK0040.html#.Xn4us7jXqP8
Part 13.
Try to use these partslists and the manual, you'll find a lot
of information there.
CMSNL states it on the partslist.
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs650gl-1982-z-usa-e03_model34272/partslist/BLCK0040.html#.Xn4us7jXqP8
Part 13.
Try to use these partslists and the manual, you'll find a lot
of information there.
timebombprod
Forum Sage
Steve
GS Whisperer
Not sure what "parts warehouse" you are using, but if they use Suzuki part numbers, you have the size information. :-k
The part number for the stud is 01421-0620A . If you look at the second half, it tells you that it's a 6mm diameter, 20mm long. Yes, that works for just about every fastener on your bike.
You do need to note, however, that the thread pitch is not indicated. If you order from Suzuki, that's not a problem, but the 'normal' JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) thread pitch for an M8 bolt is 1.25. If you go to the corner hardware store, you will likely only find 1.5 pitch. Unless you know these subtle differences, you can easily mess up some rather expensive aluminum parts.
.
timebombprod
Forum Sage
good note that will be a great help for replacing older and rustybolts
and ive found out about the subtle differences before...didnt screw anything up just bought the wrong bolt and didnt wanna finger tighten at all and led me to buy a size under wasting more money lol
Dissertation on Studology
Dissertation on Studology
20mm is NOT the overall length of the stud. They are a standard metric M6x1 thread.
I keep these (and the 8mm studs used in the forks) "in stock", since Suzuki makes them out of cheddar cheese and pretty much every GS strips the threads sooner or later. They're cheap, so I just tack them on to orders of other parts once in a while.
The studs are 32mm overall. There's a 12mm threaded section that threads into the engine, then the length of the unthreaded section plus threads sticking out of the engine is 20mm.
Get the studs out by grabbing them with locking pliers and turning. Don't just grab and try to turn them quickly or they'll break; wiggle and worry back and forth in small amounts until they start to move, then turn them out.
Use blue thread locker to re-install new studs.
For the time being, you can remove the studs and finish your oil change by temporarily replacing the studs with M6 screws or bolts. I think M6X25 (the latter number indicates the thread length, not the overall length) should be about right. You then have until the next oil change to find or order new studs and nuts.
If you want to order from McMaster-Carr, they don't have M6 studs with the appropriate threaded length (12mm) going into the engine; all the studs they sell in this size range have only 8mm of threads on the "short" side. So overall it's best to get the correct part from Suzuki.
However, you could also replace the studs with a fully threaded stud if you just can't stand the thought of ordering from Suzuki or something; you'd need a little more length, about 40mm. The threads for the bottom stud usually go through, so you'll need to install that one with red high-strength locking compound.
Lastly, I always install GS oil filter covers with M6 nylon locking nuts. That way, you can be confident they'll stay in place without lock washers or overtorquing. The nylon insert does not wear the threads on the stud, and they can usually be re-used for three or four oil changes. I use stainless because they're fancier... a bag of 100 is cheap from McMaster-Carr. Most "real" hardware stores keep these nuts in stock, but at unconscionable prices. The big box stores tend to have very little metric stuff, so YMMV.
https://www.mcmaster.com/locknuts/=fd04bd8d9e054f489e40f7aeb55786f9k8d31zz0
Edit:
This place appears to sell studs of the correct thread lengths:
https://www.belmetric.com/m6x10-coa...-p-6589.html?zenid=1g6iqke4pgd34sq887du6o6854
Stainless, for that extra zoot factor, or something.
Stainless is fine in this application; it's not highly loaded or torqued, and the thread locker will prevent galvanic corrosion between the studs and the aluminum engine. There is a small risk of galling with stainless nuts, but the threads are short and just a bit of oil to prevent this is always near at hand... or a bit of antiseize if you're worried.
Nylock nuts:
https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-th...-p-3455.html?zenid=1g6iqke4pgd34sq887du6o6854
Dissertation on Studology
20mm is NOT the overall length of the stud. They are a standard metric M6x1 thread.
I keep these (and the 8mm studs used in the forks) "in stock", since Suzuki makes them out of cheddar cheese and pretty much every GS strips the threads sooner or later. They're cheap, so I just tack them on to orders of other parts once in a while.
The studs are 32mm overall. There's a 12mm threaded section that threads into the engine, then the length of the unthreaded section plus threads sticking out of the engine is 20mm.
Get the studs out by grabbing them with locking pliers and turning. Don't just grab and try to turn them quickly or they'll break; wiggle and worry back and forth in small amounts until they start to move, then turn them out.
Use blue thread locker to re-install new studs.
For the time being, you can remove the studs and finish your oil change by temporarily replacing the studs with M6 screws or bolts. I think M6X25 (the latter number indicates the thread length, not the overall length) should be about right. You then have until the next oil change to find or order new studs and nuts.
If you want to order from McMaster-Carr, they don't have M6 studs with the appropriate threaded length (12mm) going into the engine; all the studs they sell in this size range have only 8mm of threads on the "short" side. So overall it's best to get the correct part from Suzuki.
However, you could also replace the studs with a fully threaded stud if you just can't stand the thought of ordering from Suzuki or something; you'd need a little more length, about 40mm. The threads for the bottom stud usually go through, so you'll need to install that one with red high-strength locking compound.
Lastly, I always install GS oil filter covers with M6 nylon locking nuts. That way, you can be confident they'll stay in place without lock washers or overtorquing. The nylon insert does not wear the threads on the stud, and they can usually be re-used for three or four oil changes. I use stainless because they're fancier... a bag of 100 is cheap from McMaster-Carr. Most "real" hardware stores keep these nuts in stock, but at unconscionable prices. The big box stores tend to have very little metric stuff, so YMMV.
https://www.mcmaster.com/locknuts/=fd04bd8d9e054f489e40f7aeb55786f9k8d31zz0
Edit:
This place appears to sell studs of the correct thread lengths:
https://www.belmetric.com/m6x10-coa...-p-6589.html?zenid=1g6iqke4pgd34sq887du6o6854
Stainless, for that extra zoot factor, or something.
Stainless is fine in this application; it's not highly loaded or torqued, and the thread locker will prevent galvanic corrosion between the studs and the aluminum engine. There is a small risk of galling with stainless nuts, but the threads are short and just a bit of oil to prevent this is always near at hand... or a bit of antiseize if you're worried.
Nylock nuts:
https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-th...-p-3455.html?zenid=1g6iqke4pgd34sq887du6o6854
Last edited:
