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Oil Filter Cover

  • Thread starter Thread starter Roger P.
  • Start date Start date
R

Roger P.

Guest
Well, let me say that Suzuki's design for the oil filter cover on the 1100 wasn't one of their better ideas. I now have a stripped stud, and a leak. I noticed the bike using a lot of oil, but there was no smoke of noticeable leaks. Turns out, it was coming from the cover as I ran the bike, which would account for a few small sideways "squidges" while I was turning. Any tips to remove these studs? Since I'll be taking one out, I was thinking of taking them all out and using allen bolts instead. Those fiddly little acorn nuts are next to useless. While I'm on the subject, has anyone ever seen a spin on oil filter adapter for these motors? Thanks in advance.
 
There should be a small shoulder on the stud that you can grab with a good pair of vise grips and wind it out. There is also a tool I remember that was a stud extractor. Had three one way clutch rollers on it and worked the nuts after you just slipped it over the problem stud. Maybe snap-on made it?
Keep in mind these studs thread into the engine cases so don't go psycho on it.
 
This happens to every GS eventually.

You can get better-quality 6mm replacement studs at most real hardware stores (not the "big box" stores). New studs from Suzuki are pretty pointless, since they're made from the same play-doh substance as the originals.

Do NOT replace the studs with bolts except as a temporary emergency measure -- after a few more oil changes, the soft aluminum threads in the engine will be worn out and then you'll have a real problem.

You can get the stripped stud (and the others) out with small vice-grip pliers.
 
Yeah, I'm going in to bat for the studs also. I know the small dome-headed nuts are a pain when you're trying to install the spring-loaded cover behind the headers... but as bwringer says, the only alternative is to use bolts which before too long will have stripped the aluminium threads in the engine cases. Studs are capable of much more abuse; and when they give up, you can just replace them.

Same applies to bolts for holding the exhaust system on; they'll always strip the thread in the head. But if you use studs, no such problem.
 
Where can you find the studs for the exhaust? Luckily, the PO managed to get the exhaust off without breaking a bolt and the V&H is just hanging there finger tight right now. I'd like to install studs because of the whole dissimilar metal issue, but I don't know exactly what to ask for. There's a local bolt shop that should be able to get them if I know what to order, what size and thread pitch? Should I go stainless or stick to Grade 8?

BTW, this is for an '81 GS7500EX.
 
I bought some M8 stainless steel bolts, trimmed them to length, and then cut the req. amount of thread on the threadless end of the rod, using a button die (M8 x 1.25, from memory).

Then I screwed them into the head, using Loctite to help hold them fast and keep moisture & air out of the threads also.

Plain steel studs will give you less reactivity issues with the cast aluminium than stainless steel. But I don't think it's a big issue myself.
 
Wrong topic sorry....

My GS(X)1100 come out as they are only finger tight. Do you have any taps and die's in your tool box? The thread should be M6 1.00 thread. You could cut a new thread on the stud, place two nuts on the new thread and lock then together then using the inside of the two nuts draw the stud out.

Suzuki mad
 
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Well....it's out. What a mother****er of a job. Remove the exhaust to get enough room to work. Twist with two small needle-nose pair of vice grips. Grind...grind...tear...ho ho! It's loose. Turn slowly. SNAP! YES! The aluminum has given up its grip. NO! The stud has snapped about 2mm inside the case. $50 worth of fancy extractors which come with their own CD to show you how to use. There is a handy left handed bit which I hope will spin out the stud. No dice. I drill all the way through. I buy some more conventional spiral and square extractors. I'm getting desperate. These thing almost always lead to colourful language and an expensive repair. I hammered it in. Twist as hard as I dare. The stud just laughs. I try another. I hammer it in a bit harder. Still like trying to pull Excalibur from the rock. Now I'm ****ed. Not a good thing when drills and aluminum are close at hand. I go one bigger on the left hand bits. I basically obliterate what it left of the stud, but that S.O.B DOES NOT MOVE! So, I'm left with a nice oversize round, straight hole. Unfortunately, I have only SAE taps. The hole is almost dead on size for a 1/4" NC. So I cut threads, feeling a slightly crunchy sensation from what is little left of the old stud. I hate bodging things, but I'll be back on the road (fingers crossed) tomorrow. I'll either helicoil it for 6mm again, or go up one size to 8mm and widen the cover hole ever so slightly. This little job has packed in as much frustration as my entire Xj650 rebuild last summer, which took a long time but went pretty smoothly. I also found out that I only had 4 exhaust collar halves installed, one on each pipe. This explains the slight backfiring I was hearing. Such a lovely relaxing weekend!
 
Nice you hear that you finally got it out. \\:D/












But...if that's your idea of a relaxing weekend, please don't bother to invite me on your next get-away. 8-[


.
 
I know the feeling WELL, when you've done everything you possibly can, and the little b*rstard of a thing still won't move.

Whoever invented helicoils should be given the Nobel Prize.
 
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